JL 18w3

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

So I can land a JL 18w3 for a very low price. Used.
I have no size limitations for enclosure.
I want to make this a super-small budget, first build, so I would like to stay with a BASH 300 or Dayton SA240.(unless I come across a used EP2500 for under $175)
Even if I don't go with the JL 18w3, I want to try to stay to the same amp choices and choose a compatible driver then.

Should be enough power in a proper box for mild spl, no?

One question though....why do I see BASH 325 amps and BASH 350 amps when I thought they were all either 300's or 500's?
Also, I read that both of these plate amps need internal parts switched?

 

[annunaki]

You will want at least 500 watts with that driver to take advantage of it. The box is going to be quite big as well.

To be honest, you would be much better off with the JL 15W3v2 since it uses a scaled down W7 motor. It is highly linear and will perform very well. Enclosures are a bit tricky with it though. Again, you will want a minimum 500 watts with it.

 

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

Well, a new 15w3 would cost more than this used 18w3.
I definitely want to stick with the two amps.(unless I get lucky on an ep2500)

So can I buy a 'new' subwoofer of any brand that would be better suited for roughly the same price?($80-$140)

The 18w3 with 300w killed the shiva-x and marginally beat the Dayton DVC-15in both output and low end extension.

And what of the different wattage ratings on the BASH 300's?

 

[annunaki]

The Dayton Reference series are $159 at Parts Express.

The 18W3 will work with 300 watts, the issue is the amplifier will clip before you get anywhere near it's limits.

There is a big difference between the 15W3 and the 15W3v2. The V2 is the way to go if you want a large diameter driver. Dual 13W1v2's would be pretty impressive and you could run them off of 300 watts at a minimum.

 

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

It was the V2 I believe I modeled against. The one in the WinISD database.
So the Dayton Reference would be your #1 choice for $160 or less to mate with the 300w?
Anyother options?
Thanks for the help!

 

[annunaki]

With 300 watts it is a tough call. Honestly after playing with it, my choice would be the 13W1v2 unless you can find a woofer that is at a steal. The W1v2 is more linear overall than the old W3 series. The W3v2's sans the 15 are close but still not quite as nice. The W1v2, 15W3v2, W3v3 W6v2 and W7 all benefit from DMA optomized motor systems and patented suspension manufacturing techniques improving linearity.

The Dayton is a good choice and performs quite well. It is a difficult choice. What are your goals for the system and what are you expecting out of it? Is size a factor at all (enclosure)?

 

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

The Dayton Reference series are $159 at Parts Express.

The 18W3 will work with 300 watts, the issue is the amplifier will clip before you get anywhere near it's limits.

There is a big difference between the 15W3 and the 15W3v2. The V2 is the way to go if you want a large diameter driver. Dual 13W1v2's would be pretty impressive and you could run them off of 300 watts at a minimum.

As in 150w to each 13w1V2? What would be the best single JL driver to use with the 300w?

 

[annunaki]

As in 150w to each 13w1V2? What would be the best single JL driver to use with the 300w?

The 13W3v3 or 15W3v2 would probably work best, especially if you will be upping the amplifier power down the line. The 13W1v2 would be an option as well but you really cannot increase the power much more.

 

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

I should have mentioned that I will definitely be upping the power down the line.(as soon as I can get a good deal on a EP2500 which I've been looking for for a few weeks)
But at that point I could go one of two ways:
1. Build a second of whatever I have.
2. Complete new build with new enclosure and driver.(if the driver can't handle the vastly increased power)


Besides the 13w3V3 and 15w3v2, what are one or two other drivers from different manuf. that I should consider?(staying under say $150/lower the better)
Also would the 12w3V2 be an option as I can land that cheap as well?


Oh and do you know why different companies sell the BASH 300 labled as 325(svs) and 350(epik)?

Thanks so much!

 

[annunaki]

I should have mentioned that I will definitely be upping the power down the line.(as soon as I can get a good deal on a EP2500 which I've been looking for for a few weeks)
But at that point I could go one of two ways:
1. Build a second of whatever I have.
2. Complete new build with new enclosure and driver.(if the driver can't handle the vastly increased power)


Besides the 13w3V3 and 15w3v2, what are one or two other drivers from different manuf. that I should consider?(staying under say $150/lower the better)
Also would the 12w3V2 be an option as I can land that cheap as well?


Oh and do you know why different companies sell the BASH 300 labled as 325(svs) and 350(epik)?

Thanks so much!

I couldn't tell you on the amplifiers. They are probably designs made specifically for the company selling them so they can command a higher price.

As far as other drivers are concerned the Dayton Reference series subs are nice as are the Audiopulse, Infinity Kappa Perfect VQ, the Shiva-X, etc.

The 12W3v2 would be an option but I would not send much more than 500 watts rms to it at high output levels.

 

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

I don't hear the reference line mentioned often for sub builds, mostly speaker builds.
I can see you are a fan though and I trust your judgement.
Thanks for the list!
The shiva doesn't model all that impressively as far as spl.(but it does go low for a 12")
At least using 300w modeling.

 

[gus6464]

The Kappa 12VQ can be had for around the same price as the W3 online. Why not go with that instead of a driver that really hasn't been tested.

 

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

No particular reason.
I'd like to stick with 15" or 18", though that's not concrete.
Figured the more displacement with linear response with a bigger driver from JL.

 

[annunaki]

Personally, I will probably try an Infinity out at some point, but I have always had questions about their reliability. While I do not doubt that they make a solid speaker, they have always seemed a bit on the fragile side. I think I have seen two people so far who have had issues with their drivers using them in the home environment.

I have always had great results with JL. I know the W7 is in its own league for performance so I will continue to use it as my reference point.

If you used the 18W3, I do not think you would be disappointed.

 

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

If I go with a JL, I want a '4' and not a '2' correct?
As in 15w3v2D4.

 

[annunaki]

Incorrect.

You want a D2.

You will run the coils in series for a 4 ohm load which will result in the proper impedance match for the BASH 300 watt amplifer.

 

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

Damn, I missed out on a 15w3v2-D2 for only $120 shipped.

Well, now I know.

Thanks for the help again!

 

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

I was all set on the Dayton Ref. HF15, until I read that even in a 12cu.ft. they reach xmax at just under 180w!

So with either amp I would have to go sealed if I wanted to use this driver, no?

 

[annunaki]

I was all set on the Dayton Ref. HF15, until I read that even in a 12cu.ft. they reach xmax at just under 180w!

So with either amp I would have to go sealed if I wanted to use this driver, no?

I would have to model it to know. I think I have plans for a 15" sealed enclosure, designed to be used with the Dayton HPSA500 watt amplifier.

 

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

Does that amp come up short like the Dayton1000 amp?(633w/rms)
If so, that would put it around say 400w/rms....so way over what was reported by one owner of reaching xmax at 180w in a 12.3cu.ft. ported.

If you could share your info. that would be great.
Though I'd probably definitely want to go vented as sealed when modeled in WinISD with 300w:
Sealed: (compared to 300w Vented)
-down ~3.25dB @ 30Hz
-down ~5.5dB @ 25Hz
-down ~8.5dB @ 20Hz
-down ~9.0dB @ 17.5 Hz
-down ~8.6dB @ 15Hz