Isolating in-wall speakers from studs

[TallMartin]

We are working on our first dedicated home theater room, and are to the point where we will soon mount the in-wall speakers (Theory Audio iw25s) and subs (Theory Audio iws12-6s). I'd like to isolate these from the studs to minimize transmission of acoustic energy into the structure. Are there rubber washers / gaskets I can use for this?

 

[jinjuku]

These don't tie into the stud. The installation guide shows 6 mounting dogs that clamp to the drywall. I think you could just put in a few more drywall screws around the perimeter of the speaker.

The speaker designer has already taken into account your concerns.

 

[highfigh]

We are working on our first dedicated home theater room, and are to the point where we will soon mount the in-wall speakers (Theory Audio iw25s) and subs (Theory Audio iws12-6s). I'd like to isolate these from the studs to minimize transmission of acoustic energy into the structure. Are there rubber washers / gaskets I can use for this?

Assuming that your system includes subwoofer(s), you would set the High Pass crossover for these high enough that they shouldn't cause problems, but that depends on the construction of the building- is it new, or pre-existing? If disturbing the drywall won't cause problems, you could build a back box that's either made from rubber sheet and allowed some space between the sides and the studs, or fasten horizontal framing above and below an MDF back box that's held in place by rubber blocks screwed to the horizontal members, then the back boxes are screwed to the rubber, for isolation.

I haven't heard of in-wall speakers causing structure-born problems, but HVAC ducting and sound passing to an adjacent room are frequent offenders.

 

[Eppie]

Vibration isolation needs to be addressed at the construction phase. Typical methods are resilient clips to isolate the drywall from the studs, a staggered stud wall, double stud wall and also adding mass with soundproofing insulation. Since your drywall is already up, consider whether the speakers are enclosed or not (have back boxes). If enclosed, you are likely ok. If open backed, insulation behind the speakers and two feet above and below the speaker can help and is sometimes recommended by the manufacturer.

I agree with highfigh that openings are often overlooked. Venting and gaps below doors will transmit a lot more sound than the wall vibrations. Electrical outlets should also be sealed from behind as any small opening will allow sound transmission.

 

[highfigh]

Vibration isolation needs to be addressed at the construction phase. Typical methods are resilient clips to isolate the drywall from the studs, a staggered stud wall, double stud wall and also adding mass with soundproofing insulation. Since your drywall is already up, consider whether the speakers are enclosed or not (have back boxes). If enclosed, you are likely ok. If open backed, insulation behind the speakers and two feet above and below the speaker can help and is sometimes recommended by the manufacturer.

I agree with highfigh that openings are often overlooked. Venting and gaps below doors will transmit a lot more sound than the wall vibrations. Electrical outlets should also be sealed from behind as any small opening will allow sound transmission.

The problem is that structure-borne transmission can be heard at the far end of a building when it entered at the other end. HVAC ducting can have a sort of muffler added, by using a flexible coupler and fiberglass panels and a baffle that are made for supply air, but an HVAC designer probably won't like it because it disrupts the air flow. Think of it as a square box mounted at a 45° angle with the entry points at opposite corners. Obviously, space will be needed and it can't be small because that would restrict air flow and that adds noise of its own.

J-boxes and weatherstripping are great for the areas adjacent/near the room and a solid core door is always a good idea if the SPL in the theater/music room will be high.