Is there an Electrician in the house???

[Geoff]

I might be moving to Canada, a 110v country.

My TV is "world system", so is my DVD, so voltage will automatically adjust, but my speakers' sub (made in Canada!!) and my amp are 220V.

Will I have to sell these, or is there a simple (and cheap) way to change the voltage? I especially don't want to lose the amp.

Any advice gratefully welcomed!!

Cheers.

 

[avliner]

Hi Geoff,

that's not a big issue, as you can buy a voltage converter/transformer and then plug all your 220v gears into it, which will be fed by an 120v outlet.

Just bear in mind the power consumption (in Watts and/or Va) of the gears you'll be plugging into the transformer. As an example:

let's assume that your amp has something like 500 Watts of power consumption and your woofer 300 Watts more, ok?

You'll have then a total of 800 Watts, so add a 20% safety margin and you'll be set; therefore you'll need to buy a 1,000 Watts transformer, and so on.

Any other doubts, just le me know.

Cheers / Avliner.

 

[Tarub]

This will work:

http://www.220-electronics.com/?ovmkt=24BOE59EB134BCMG638L5APSPK&OVRAW=step up transformer&OVKEY=step up transformer&OVMTC=standard

Then click on Voltage Transformer on the left and then select type 2

I agree with avliner. Determine how much total watts or amps of all your equipment that you are going to plug in to the step up transformer and go a little higher (20%) for initial power up surge. It will not hurt your equipment if you get more power, it will just co$t you more.

 

[electricdick]

120 Volt Counrty

Can you post the make and model of your amp and other equipment of concern?

Oftain there is a "sliding" voltage selector switch and a keeper bar to select the amplifier's operating voltage.

D ick

 

[Geoff]

Many thanks all. Those converters look bigger than my sub!!

The sub is a Mirage 150 (I forget the letters, comes in a box with Omnisat 6 system).... made in Canada. The amp is an Onkyo TX-DS 989. I know some of the Onkyo amps I looked at had a voltage switch, as does my Onkyo DVD player. But the 989 just seems to be 220-240V. Maybe there's something inside?

At least I know I won't have to sell, re-purchase and lose money!

Thanks again.

 

[avliner]

Hi Geoff,

regarding to your Onkyo 989, try to look at the specs tag on back panel.
You'll find the real voltage, for sure.
If it's a dual-voltage capable, there's gonna be a switch somewhere, in order to allow you to use whichever you want ( 1110 or 220V).

If not, then you'll need the transformer though.

Cheers / Avliner.

 

[electricdick]

Onkyo 989

Hi Geoff.

I checked the manuals on-line and there is nothing regarding your receivers specs. Crap. Not much of a manual. Is your AVR registered with Onkyo? You could register on their site and ask them what is possible.

As Avliner suggests there should be a voltage selector switch on the back....a digital photo of your machine might be useful to us.

D ick

 

[Geoff]

Thanks for going to all this trouble!

The "specifications" page in the manual says voltage 110V, 60Hz, 220V 50Hz (helpfully!).

I've looked at the back and there is no selector switch, like there is on the DVD player, it just says in 220V.

I would talk to the local dealer, but I'm in the Middle East and don't have much faith in any technical "advice" I get here.

I will register (I don't like to because it usually means an increase in junk mail) and see what they say.

If it comes to the worst, I can always put the sub on top of the converter.... it may sound better!!

Thanks again.

 

[electricdick]

Onkyo 989

Ah, so then you know what switch I am talking about, like your DVD has.

It is best to contact Onkyo to find out how to "select" 120 Volts for your AVR. You can filter your Email later but that is another thread.

I have the same sub, but I bought mine here. You will likely have to purchase a converter for your sub. My guess is a 200 Watt coverter should work for the 150 Watt (output) sub.

If you have to use a converter for the AVR then check out the specifications again to find out how much power it consumes and add this power to the 200 Watt (approximate) converter I mention above to have one larger converter.

 

[Geoff]

Electricdick

The power consumption is 11A, 735W (so how can it chuck out 130W x 7 minimum???).

I know it's not the right place to ask, but how do you find the Mirage sub? I described mine in another thread as "flabby, wooly, boomy". I just can't seem to get placemnet right!

I will contact Onkyo and see what they say (if anything, I've seen threads here that don't rate their customer service too highly!)

 

[avliner]

I've looked at the back and there is no selector switch, like there is on the DVD player, it just says in 220V.

If it says so, than you can be sure that your AVR is 220v ONLY; therefore requiring a converter/transformer to work on 120V.

Normally, high wattage consumption gears are single voltage rated (like your AVR). In other hand, several export models may come with dual-voltage switch and some low consumption gears (like your dvd, for instance) even come with an automatic voltage switch, meaning that you don't need to worry about where you gonna plug it ( 110 or 220V outlets).

Take as an example your cell phone charger; I'm sure it's dual voltage!

For goods sold in the US/Canada, the products are normally single voltage rated, as there is only one standard voltage throughout.
For the manufacturers, that means le$$ spent on these models.

Cheers / Avliner.

 

[electricdick]

"The power consumption is 11A, 735W (so how can it chuck out 130W x 7 minimum???)."

Seven tiny nuclear reactors, they think of everything! Just kidding. I don't think it is 130 Watts x 7 channels continously.

Avliner has it nailed and I would expect you will have to purchase a gender bender for your power cords too.

Off topic but I have the OM-7 main speakers and I don't over-drive the sub. I set the sub volume so it suppliments the mains bass and I am quite pleased with the sound. It kicks pretty good with the movies. Once I have my upstairs system complete (Carver C-1000) I will move this sub and replace it with something larger, 12" minimum.

D ick

 

[mtrycrafts]

Many thanks all. Those converters look bigger than my sub!!

The sub is a Mirage 150 (I forget the letters, comes in a box with Omnisat 6 system).... made in Canada. The amp is an Onkyo TX-DS 989. I know some of the Onkyo amps I looked at had a voltage switch, as does my Onkyo DVD player. But the 989 just seems to be 220-240V. Maybe there's something inside?

At least I know I won't have to sell, re-purchase and lose money!

Thanks again.

If it is an International unit with dual voltage, the switch is on the back. I have never heard of it being inside of any unit. That would be a very poor design indeed.
So, as was suggested, check the back plate for voltage rating. If it only has 220-240, well, bad news for you

 

[mtrycrafts]

The "specifications" page in the manual says voltage 110V, 60Hz, 220V 50Hz (helpfully!).

I've looked at the back and there is no selector switch, like there is on the DVD player, it just says in 220V.

I would talk to the local dealer, but I'm in the Middle East and don't have much faith in any technical "advice" I get here.
.

The manual may be a universal one, covering all their 939 units.
Where did you buy it? Overseas in the Middle East? What is the voltage there? Most likely your unit is a single voltage since you don't see the switch.

 

[mtrycrafts]

Electricdick
The power consumption is 11A, 735W (so how can it chuck out 130W x 7 minimum???).
!)

Each channel is capable of delivering 130W continuous, or more, most likely, and 130 per 2 channels driven. It will not deliver this to all channels at the same instant and is not really needed.

 

[Geoff]

Thank you all for your comments and help.

I have the picture now... buy a converter. It won't look pretty, but maybe I can build it into a wall.

Electricdick.... I may look at those OM-7's, I'm using the sats and I get great mid to top end, super "thump the chest" lower end, but dismal upper/mid bass (if you know what I mean!)

 

[mulester7]

.....here's a great post on this subject found at another site....

As an old large-data-center computer installer, I can attest to the most important thing - grounding - for any installation. This should be the top priority to those who are considering the large-AC current flow amps (Mac amps and similar amps from other vendors) discussed here is proper grounding for the entire house and all the feeds into and out of the load panel.

Forget special outlets, power cords, power conditioners, etc: This is an attempt to put up a line of defence without know who the enemy is. Determine the enemy then choose how to deal with it but you should eliminate all other enemies by getting the house wiring right first.

To ensure optimal operation, the wiring to the installation should be made with up-to-date wiring, follow NEC codes (this never ceases to amaze me how many electricians mis-interpret these), and all joints are clean and well cinched down. Also with the level of current flow being discussed, maintenance of the wiring joints over time should be undertaken.

Depending on where you live, the integrity of residence earth grounding becomes more important with high-current flow appliances. This will vary with terrain, soil makeup and wetness of the ground surrounding a residence. Only after the proper grounding is confirmed and integrity of the connections - including the rods driven into earth - should you consider some sort of conditioning, which is related to the quality of the power being delivered to the residence.

BTW, having installed many large computer systems for the past 30 years in the South - North Carolina - I look at disturbances like lightening as a component of power quality but with the exception that proper dissipation of excess energy (grounding) becomes even more important. I do not see power conditioners handling that without somewhere to send it (grounding).

Hope that helps with placing priorities. Remember that electricity from your local supplier does not discriminate. All appliance look the same to it. How you deliver it and make sure that excess energy is dissipated is first priority. The ever-larger amplifiers seen today are beginning to look more like a stove or baseboard heaters to a load panel. You don't worry about how they interact if the wiring is right and this would apply to your audio installation, too.

Cheers,

David

 

[geedee]

Update

Hello all

I made it to Canada.... been here a year! I've re-registered (different name because different e-mail)

I bought a chinese made 2000W converter and plugged the Sub and the Onkyo in.... dreading the mains hum I was sure would be there.

Guess what....

It sounds great!! Not a murmur of hum! Even the sub sounds better .... maybe it's the concrete floor in the basement?

However, I've just bought an EAD TheatreMaster Ovation.... no idea what power amps to buy to support it.... I'll let you know how I get on!

Hope you're all well.

 

[mike c]

congrats Geoff!

where did you move from?

 

[geedee]

I was in Dubai in my "Geoff" days.

Anyone have any thoughts on the EAD and what power amp / speakers would suit?