How to wire Roku and preserve sound

[TLS Guy]

Take a look at this photograph.

That little unit on the left at the bottom, is a small microcomputer. What is complicated about loading that with Windows, and then opening a Google page to find what you want to stream. It operates from a wireless keyboard which is far easier and quicker than hunt and peck remotes. Anybody understands how to use it, without instruction.

A lot of what I watch is not available on any streamer. I have logo on my start page and can go to what I want as fast as any streamer. A PC is much more versatile and opens you up to a world not available with streamers.

 

[Trebdp83]

When a particular service does not have an app available for various streamers, a browser will need to be used. It is easy enough to put them in a browser's start up page as mentioned. Support for audio and video codecs will be all over the place based on software and hardware in use. The most popular Movie and TV streaming services will be better supported on the best streamers. There is no one streamer or browser on PC solution to rule them all.

 

[TLS Guy]

When a particular service does not have an app available for various streamers, a browser will need to be used. It is easy enough to put them in a browser's start up page as mentioned. Support for audio and video codecs will be all over the place based on software and hardware in use. The most popular Movie and TV streaming services will be better supported on the best streamers. There is no one streamer or browser on PC solution to rule them all.

When we subscribe to Netflix, which is not very often, we use the app on our LG TV. I also use it to stream BPO Atmos streams. Otherwise I use one of our three computers. I suppose it is what you are used to. I put the first computer (DIY) job in my rig in 2002, which is 23 years ago now. I built my first HTPC in 2012, so 13 years ago.

 

[gnorthern]

It's your preference to use a desktop OS for streaming but I prefer the easy of use of a remote for daily use to operate my Apple TV. That generally works very well and if keyboard is needed for searching I can use my iPhone to act as a keyboard as Apple TV supports that. YouTube and similar we watch on our PCs only, and no Googling on it either.

It's a reason why streaming devices (like Apple TV) and streaming apps in TVs are so popular and HTPC most definitely is not: HTPC using a desktop OS is a very clunky experience to setup and operate for the usual streaming services.

Can you find in Google higher quality audio than on a Roku?

 

[TLS Guy]

Can you find in Google higher quality audio than on a Roku?

No idea, I have never owned a Roku, or any device of that kind.

I have always used computers or TV apps via eARC. I have had a computer in the my rigs for 23 years now. My AV room has an HTPC and a DAW. Out great room has that little mini computer for the HTPC and it has worked well. I also have a very robust ethernet infrastructure in the home. So everything that is not mobile is hard wired. That way you avoid any down regulation from inadequate connections.

I build my computers from the finest components, like the best power supplies out there, which is Aurum Gold for instance. I think though, quality is much more dependent on the sites you stream from. All I know is that I can get very high quality audio and video from my streaming sites.

 

[Trebdp83]

If just using the Roku Ultra 4800X to stream movies and TV shows from Netflix, it will deliver Atmos/DD+ and 4K HDR signals from supported titles to the Samsung TV and Marantz receiver.

According to Netflix, 4K HDR and Dolby Atmos are not supported in Google Chrome. Using Google Chrome via HTPC will deliver HD(1080p) and Dolby Digital 5.1 to a connected TV and AVP/AVR.

Netflix and other services that feature Dolby Atmos will use a lossy Dolby Digital Plus based version compared to the lossless Dolby TrueHD version featured on blu-ray disc or Kaleidescape files.

The Roku Ultra 4800X is a fine streamer and features some amusing seasonal dynamic backgrounds and remote click sounds. The settings could be better organized.

I’ve used a few different streamers and all have their strengths and shortcomings. When it comes to the best audio/video presentation of Dolby Vision and Dolby Atmos content from streaming services, I’ve found the NVIDIA SHIELD TV PRO to be tough to beat but my Apple TV 4K is my favorite all around streamer. Results for others will vary of course.

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

If just using the Roku Ultra 4800X to stream movies and TV shows from Netflix, it will deliver Atmos/DD+ and 4K HDR signals from supported titles to the Samsung TV and Marantz receiver.

According to Netflix, 4K HDR and Dolby Atmos are not supported in Google Chrome. Using Google Chrome via HTPC will deliver HD(1080p) and Dolby Digital 5.1 to a connected TV and AVP/AVR.

Netflix and other services that feature Dolby Atmos will use a lossy Dolby Digital Plus based version compared to the lossless Dolby TrueHD version featured on blu-ray disc or Kaleidescape files.

The Roku Ultra 4800X is a fine streamer and features some amusing seasonal dynamic backgrounds and remote click sounds. The settings could be better organized.

I’ve used a few different streamers and all have their strengths and shortcomings. When it comes to the best audio/video presentation of Dolby Vision and Dolby Atmos content from streaming services, I’ve found the NVIDIA SHIELD TV PRO to be tough to beat but my Apple TV 4K is my favorite all around streamer. Results for others will vary of course.

I was really close to getting the shield as it has no shortage of enthusiasts. However in 2021, ATV4k won the bid, and I love it. For titles that really matter, I have disk versions, but overall, I can’t complain about performance. It’s also integrated nicely with the apps and controls in my phone. My son got me the updated Siri Remote for Xmas. Very nice as well. I’ve found tv apps to be clunky, and slow and many limit performance. So eARC is a nonstarter for me.
Roku does seem like a decent choice though.

 

[highfigh]

People (and many installers) need to stop believing that they know how this stuff is intended to be connected, set up and used.

Sources go to the AVR or AVP, which does the switching and processing. From there, and it shows 'Monitor' right on the back panel, next to ALL of the HDMI INPUT ports which means that the Monitor port is the one that feeds the TV. The TV only has HDMI inputs for the users who won't use an AVR/AVP and it has ARC/eARC because some people don't plan ahead or find that a dinky soundbar doesn't provide good sound.

I would say that a good 50% of the reasons people don't want to buy an AV system is because of the horror stories from AV equipment companies making products that don't work together, can't control other brands' products and now that tech support has become a complete CF, they can't get the answers needed.

 

[Trebdp83]

Tech support is a joke for sure. I only know what I know about all of this mess through research and experiment with a multitude of devices over many years. If only those on the customer support line were required to do even half as much, things would be better for sure.

For those with only a TV as a streamer or those with a soundbar or new mini receiver with only a single ARC/eARC port, various devices will have to be connected directly to a TV and good luck with it all. This would also be the case for those with new 4K capable TVs with streamers or game consoles connected to older HD receivers.

There is no standard for the feature set of HDMI-CEC in a Smart TV or even a rule about what to call it from manufacturer to manufacturer. There is no rule for the number or kinds of devices supported by a Smart TV.

There is also no standard for the allowed control by a Smart TV of devices using HDMI-CEC and every single disc player, streamer, game console, PC and cable box/tuner/DVR has its own specific HDMI-CEC feature set.

I once had nine HDMI connected devices in my system using HDMI-CEC with three devices connected to the TV and six devices connected to the AVR. It was a nightmare to configure and maintain and I had to throw in the towel.

But, to be fair, manufacturers are not entirely to blame as some folks want things to “just work” without any effort at all in learning how to make it all work. I’m sure I’ve not said “Read the f#%kin’ manual!” for the last time.

Modern processors and receivers are little marvels. It is a shame so many dismiss them for various reasons and go with soundbars and wireless(except for the f#%kin’ power cord) speakers.

 

[highfigh]

Tech support is a joke for sure. I only know what I know about all of this mess through research and experiment with a multitude of devices over many years. If only those on the customer support line were required to do even half as much, things would be better for sure.

For those with only a TV as a streamer or those with a soundbar or new mini receiver with only a single ARC/eARC port, various devices will have to be connected directly to a TV and good luck with it all. This would also be the case for those with new 4K capable TVs with streamers or game consoles connected to older HD receivers.

There is no standard for the feature set of HDMI-CEC in a Smart TV or even a rule about what to call it from manufacturer to manufacturer. There is no rule for the number or kinds of devices supported by a Smart TV.

There is also no standard for the allowed control by a Smart TV of devices using HDMI-CEC and every single disc player, streamer, game console, PC and cable box/tuner/DVR has its own specific HDMI-CEC feature set.

I once had nine HDMI connected devices in my system using HDMI-CEC with three devices connected to the TV and six devices connected to the AVR. It was a nightmare to configure and maintain and I had to throw in the towel.

But, to be fair, manufacturers are not entirely to blame as some folks want things to “just work” without any effort at all in learning how to make it all work. I’m sure I’ve not said “Read the f#%kin’ manual!” for the last time.

Modern processors and receivers are little marvels. It is a shame so many dismiss them for various reasons and go with soundbars and wireless(except for the f#%kin’ power cord) speakers.

I would say that it IS the manufacturer's fault- consumers and integrators have told them what is needed to make systems work flawlessly, but they don't care. One good example that took more than ten years to correct- the cable (hard to call it that, when it's so thin) for Samsung's Frame TV isn't in-wall rated, but the longer accessory cable is. That means, if someone wants to install their One Box without running power to a new location, the accessory cable is required and the lowest price for the shorter one is $54. Another problem is the shape and dimensions for their One Box- it's too long to fit into a small in-wall enclosure, so money has to be wasted on the larger one and that's only if it's possible to place it behind or near the TV. Then, there's the problem with their remote controls that use RF.

The problem is the same as two quotes from Homer Simpson- "Just because I hear you, doesn't mean I care" and after being scolded for continuing to not listen, "You've said that so many times, it's lost all meaning".

To be honest, if I and most other installers/custom integrators have to work on a system with more than two or three devices, CEC isn't gonna be part of the setup- that's turned off ASAP because it can cause a lot of problems when a universal remote is used. Many of those are seen as 'too expensive', but they make equipment work. The few that weren't expensive are now gone, with the exception of the 'Not Ready For Primetime' Sofa Baton and a couple of others but I'm not going to be their Guinea Pig.

One of the worst things manufacturers do is use toggling commands for power and scroling commands for inputs. Those two cause more problems than anything I can think of. Another thing ALL equipment should have is an IR jack on the back, so emitters don't need to be stuck onto the plastic lens, making them vulnerable to ambient light, which causes them to 'go blind', as we do when driving into the Sunset.

Best recommendations I can make are:

Turn of CEC.

Buy equipment that uses discrete commands.

Use a universal remote that controls equipment with discrete commands.

 

[Trebdp83]

Without a standard/rule requiring manufacturers to care and implement changes, it matters not what folks want and they have to settle for what is offered. That Samsung One Box is an abomination and when I purchased a Samsung TV a few years ago I made sure it did not have one.

HDMI-CEC is what it is and every device supports it differently than another. If using it, do the research on your devices to figure out exactly how they all support it or prepare to be frustrated and infuriated with it on a daily basis.

It is a shame that most high dollar AVPs and AVRs no longer come equipped with universal remote controllers. It is one of the reasons I moved on from Denon receivers. I had two different models that had excellent universal remote controllers. But, IR is no longer a given on many new devices. I never could bring myself to use those “adhere to front panel” emitters in the past.

Those folks with a “Set it and Forget it” setup can make use of just the remote controller of their favorite devices using HDMI-CEC to control power to the TV and AVP/AVR, switch input sources and adjust volume levels. Smart TVs also have their own universal remote control capabilities for controlling external devices. Pick your poison folks. But, whatever you do, be sure to read those manuals.

 

[highfigh]

Without a standard/rule requiring manufacturers to care and implement changes, it matters not what folks want and they have to settle for what is offered. That Samsung One Box is an abomination and when I purchased a Samsung TV a few years ago I made sure it did not have one.

HDMI-CEC is what it is and every device supports it differently than another. If using it, do the research on your devices to figure out exactly how they all support it or prepare to be frustrated and infuriated with it on a daily basis.

It is a shame that most high dollar AVPs and AVRs no longer come equipped with universal remote controllers. It is one of the reasons I moved on from Denon receivers. I had two different models that had excellent universal remote controllers. But, IR is no longer a given on many new devices. I never could bring myself to use those “adhere to front panel” emitters in the past.

Those folks with a “Set it and Forget it” setup can make use of just the remote controller of their favorite devices using HDMI-CEC to control power to the TV and AVP/AVR, switch input sources and adjust volume levels. Smart TVs also have their own universal remote control capabilities for controlling external devices. Pick your poison folks. But, whatever you do, be sure to read those manuals.

So, the demands and requests from the people who would buy their equipment don't matter? That's insane. It's the same as saying "This is what we offer- we don't care if you buy it or not or if it works as you need it to".

I never saw a uni remote from an AVR manufacturer that was worth a crap. That big Yamaha POS with the door and a million buttons was insane and if you have ever programmed a remote that uses software in a computer, you would never want to do it on the remote, itself.

They stopped providing those remotes because they weren't being used, so what's the point?

Going blindly to market with their goods, it's no wonder so many brands have failed and been passed around from owner to owner like party favors.

As someone who has sold and installed for a very long time, I can deal with an occasional hiccup because I can figure out a workaround or find the cause but I had an early-60s customer who couldn't learn to aim his remote at a specific wall in less than six months (that one thing caused all of the problems). Conversely, the 3 year old daughter of another customer with a Harmony 1000 remote needed no instruction. I had to create cheat sheets for many people who had told me they were "good with this kind of thing". NO, they weren't. Their understanding of how a system needs to be controlled isn't based in any kind of logic.

The husband of one customer didn't like the remote which had worked for several years and threw it onto the hardwood floor, breaking it. The replacement is actually more difficult to operate, yet he's OK with that one. He couldn't get the Master BR system to play in the bathroom and he attempted to solve that by pressing most of the available buttons. I got a call from the wife, saying that she "had to talk him off of the ledge". I went in, pressed the mechanical power switch for the power amp (gee- that made it IMPOSSSIBLE for the amp to turn on, at all), made sure everything was turned off and pressed the activity buttons- it worked flawlessly, in all activities.

 

[Trebdp83]

I did not say the demands and requests of people do not matter. Manufacturers are continuing to do business as if they do not matter. I cannot speak of every universal remote controller that ever existed for an AVR. I liked the universal remote controllers that came with a few of my Denon receivers and they worked very well.

As for the Roku Ultra 4800X, the actual device in question in this thread, the recommended audio settings should result in an optimal audio presentation and its remote controller will power on the TV and AVR, force input source switching to itself and control volume levels in the AVR when connected directly to the TV or AVR using HDMI-CEC. Results will vary of course based on settings and component combinations.