Shock
Audioholic General
Too bad you still have to drive it around eh Sheep?
"Let our rigorous testing and reviews be your guidelines to A/V equipment – not marketing slogans"
Sheep
Audioholic Warlord
Meh. I actually don't drive that civic much (I do however drive it whenever it needs to be cleaned or fixed though). I just changed the Engine Air Filter and Dust and Pollen filter the other day. Never had them changed since 2004. They were pretty bad.
SheepStar
Sheep
Audioholic Warlord
Late reply,Well done Sir. Another good read here and yet another "forum" to loose one's self in
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=56439
That is some fantastic work. Very soon I'm going to order my polisher, pads, and compounds. Sick of swirls. Will post results when I I have my equipment all ready.
SheepStar
Davemcc
Audioholic Spartan
Is there a car wax that turns a color other than white when it dries? My Town Car is white and when I wax it, it's hard to see the dry wax to get it off. When I washed it yesterday, I found dirty wax swirls from it's last waxing last year. I'm hoping to find a wax that is more visible on white paint than what I have now.
Sheep
Audioholic Warlord
What color is the wax in it's paste form? There is lots of waxes out there, some are supposed to be removed BEFORE drying to a haze. Maybe that would work better? After waxing, you can also use an LSP with a microfiber towel for that extra shine. This will help get those last bits of wax.
Stay Tuned, Carpet shampooing is about to be posted.
SheepStar
Sheep
Audioholic Warlord
Carpet Shampooing.
The weather was really nice today, and being all by myself for the weekend, I though I would do some cleaning up (spring cleaning and all). My HT room also needs a good vacuuming and so does the car.
The Previous owner used this car as a daily, and one of the daily tasks he had was taking his dog to the park, and out for walks. The carpet in this car was FULL of dog hair, and the car had a nice, wet dog stink to it. With summer approaching, the last thing I want to smell in a car with no A/C is dog. I took it upon myself to shampoo the carpets, and document it for you guys.
Firstly, you're going to need to assess the area's that NEED cleaning. Considering this car has 420,000 KM on it, 220,000 with him and his dog, every inch needed shampooing. Using a 12mm Socket on a ratchet, I removed the front seats (only things that really needed to come out) so I could have complete access to the entire floor board. Using a dog hair comb I picked up at a pet store, I scrapped the carpets to free up dog hair, and agitate deep into the carpet fibers. The comb will fill up quickly, with carpet fibers and dog hair, so simply vacuum it out when you see fit (my comb has short metal spikes protruding from a soft rubbery pad). Once the carpets has been fully agitate, vacuum up all the loosened debris and fibers. You want to remove as much debris before you shampoo.
Now that all loose hair and dirt is removed, prep your carpet shampooer. My unit is a small Bissel cleaner, that has 2 attachments, and a heater for the cleaning solution. One attachment has fixed brushes, a solution sprayer, and the suction head. The other, has rotating brushes, a solution sprayer, and the suction head. In most cases, use the fixed brush head. You can agitate far better with your arm and some body weight, then some spinning contraption. My cleaner has it's own carpet shampoo solution, but I think almost any decent carpet shampoo will work. Simply follow the shampooer's instructions on how to fill it up and you're ready to go. If you have to add water (like mine) make it extremely hot. This will help cleaner further.
When I start shampooing, I spray down the area I want to clean thoroughly before I start agitating with the head. After this, I run the comb around again to help get the solution deep into the fibers, and agitate further. Once everything is damp and combed, begin scrubbing with the head, while spraying even more solution into the carpet. You want it to be very wet, otherwise just the top fibers will be getting the shampooing. Once the entire section is scrubbed, begin removing the solution. Push hard and drag the suction head and watch as the solution sucks up. Keep going over every part until there is no solution coming out of the carpet.
After the carpet has been dried using the suction head, I like to spray down scent. I used febreze today, and will hit it again on Monday with a product at work.
You're done! Simply let the carpet air out and dry, then put back anything you removed before cleaning. With regular vacuuming, you should not need to shampoo your carpets very often. Also, the more you vacuum, the less chance of dirt and debris getting pressed down into the carpet. If you neglect this process, getting it clean again will become a very hard process.
Pictures.
Preparations. Passenger side combed, driver side untouched.
Contents of comb after scrubbing.
Contents of shampoo container after suctioning the carpet.
Finished product, awaiting seats.
SheepStar
SheepStar
The weather was really nice today, and being all by myself for the weekend, I though I would do some cleaning up (spring cleaning and all). My HT room also needs a good vacuuming and so does the car.
The Previous owner used this car as a daily, and one of the daily tasks he had was taking his dog to the park, and out for walks. The carpet in this car was FULL of dog hair, and the car had a nice, wet dog stink to it. With summer approaching, the last thing I want to smell in a car with no A/C is dog. I took it upon myself to shampoo the carpets, and document it for you guys.
Firstly, you're going to need to assess the area's that NEED cleaning. Considering this car has 420,000 KM on it, 220,000 with him and his dog, every inch needed shampooing. Using a 12mm Socket on a ratchet, I removed the front seats (only things that really needed to come out) so I could have complete access to the entire floor board. Using a dog hair comb I picked up at a pet store, I scrapped the carpets to free up dog hair, and agitate deep into the carpet fibers. The comb will fill up quickly, with carpet fibers and dog hair, so simply vacuum it out when you see fit (my comb has short metal spikes protruding from a soft rubbery pad). Once the carpets has been fully agitate, vacuum up all the loosened debris and fibers. You want to remove as much debris before you shampoo.
Now that all loose hair and dirt is removed, prep your carpet shampooer. My unit is a small Bissel cleaner, that has 2 attachments, and a heater for the cleaning solution. One attachment has fixed brushes, a solution sprayer, and the suction head. The other, has rotating brushes, a solution sprayer, and the suction head. In most cases, use the fixed brush head. You can agitate far better with your arm and some body weight, then some spinning contraption. My cleaner has it's own carpet shampoo solution, but I think almost any decent carpet shampoo will work. Simply follow the shampooer's instructions on how to fill it up and you're ready to go. If you have to add water (like mine) make it extremely hot. This will help cleaner further.
When I start shampooing, I spray down the area I want to clean thoroughly before I start agitating with the head. After this, I run the comb around again to help get the solution deep into the fibers, and agitate further. Once everything is damp and combed, begin scrubbing with the head, while spraying even more solution into the carpet. You want it to be very wet, otherwise just the top fibers will be getting the shampooing. Once the entire section is scrubbed, begin removing the solution. Push hard and drag the suction head and watch as the solution sucks up. Keep going over every part until there is no solution coming out of the carpet.
After the carpet has been dried using the suction head, I like to spray down scent. I used febreze today, and will hit it again on Monday with a product at work.
You're done! Simply let the carpet air out and dry, then put back anything you removed before cleaning. With regular vacuuming, you should not need to shampoo your carpets very often. Also, the more you vacuum, the less chance of dirt and debris getting pressed down into the carpet. If you neglect this process, getting it clean again will become a very hard process.
Pictures.
Preparations. Passenger side combed, driver side untouched.
Contents of comb after scrubbing.
Contents of shampoo container after suctioning the carpet.
Finished product, awaiting seats.
SheepStar
SheepStar
Sheep
Audioholic Warlord
vizionut
Audioholic General
looks like you have the same pioneer cd player as i do
Matt34
Moderator
I just got done waxing and claybar-ing the wife's Xterra. Tomorrow I'll get the interior and then start on my truck.
Thanks for the write-ups Sheep!!
P.S- Here is a site with some good detailing product.
http://www.adamspolishes.com/default.aspx
Thanks for the write-ups Sheep!!
P.S- Here is a site with some good detailing product.
http://www.adamspolishes.com/default.aspx
J
jamie2112
Banned
I need to wah my car badly.......uuuuummmmmm maybe tomorrow...
Davemcc
Audioholic Spartan
I found a Maguire's yellow wax that's not supposed to dry white. I'm going to try it out tomorrow. Difference between yellow wax and carnuba = ???
Sheep
Audioholic Warlord
Yellow wax could mean anything. Carnuba is a naturally occurring wax, from a tree. Most high quality waxes have it (though synthetic waxes work well too), and the volume is rated by a %. Zymol maxes some waxes that have over 50% Carnuba wax, and cost thousands of dollars. Worth it? Probably not. Also, more durable waxes are less viscous, and require bare hand application.
SheepStar
Davemcc
Audioholic Spartan
The Maguire's yellow wax worked out great but you know what...it dried white like any other wax. The good news is that it got a lot of set in dirt out of the paint and also got most of the fallout. I clay barred it last year so there wasn't a lot of fallout anyway. This wax also wiped off very easily and left an awesome shine. My 15 year old white paint is blindingly brilliant white in the sun. It also wiped off the black rubber trim very easily so there are no white streaks around my windows and trim. All things considered, I'm quite happy with this choice of wax.
Matt34
Moderator
Here is part of my wife's Mother's Day present was, fully detailed suv:
Pics from my blackberry so they suck but you get the idea. Too bad it's going to have a nice layer of dirt on it in about 30mins living on a gravel road. It's an 03 but I've kept it waxed regularly so the paint is still in good shape. It does have some scratches and some of the clear coat is chipped on the hood from rocks. I need to do something about the headlights as they have hazed over pretty bad.
Pics from my blackberry so they suck but you get the idea. Too bad it's going to have a nice layer of dirt on it in about 30mins living on a gravel road.
It's an 03 but I've kept it waxed regularly so the paint is still in good shape. It does have some scratches and some of the clear coat is chipped on the hood from rocks. I need to do something about the headlights as they have hazed over pretty bad.
Hi Ho
Audioholic Samurai
Great thread Sheep! Do you have any suggestions on a good product for protecting the interior that I can buy in a store? My Mazda has a beautiful matte finish interior and I want to keep it that way. It isn't in a garage and we get a lot of sun in the spring and fall.
Also, any recommendations on an exterior wax? I'll be honest. I can be a bit lazy when it comes to waxing. I always wash the car using a method like you described but I am known to skip wax at times when I should not. The sad part is that I am using the easiest waxing product ever. Eagle One Nano Wax is what I have used on my car since I bought it two years ago. I use the matching car wash product and it seems to keep the water beading up for a long time between waxing. Is that stuff actually doing anything? It leaves the car silky smooth and shiny but how good can a spray on wax be? It still looks like new.
(I know the pictures are two years old but it doesn't look any different now )
Also, any recommendations on an exterior wax? I'll be honest. I can be a bit lazy when it comes to waxing. I always wash the car using a method like you described but I am known to skip wax at times when I should not. The sad part is that I am using the easiest waxing product ever. Eagle One Nano Wax is what I have used on my car since I bought it two years ago. I use the matching car wash product and it seems to keep the water beading up for a long time between waxing. Is that stuff actually doing anything? It leaves the car silky smooth and shiny but how good can a spray on wax be? It still looks like new.
(I know the pictures are two years old but it doesn't look any different now
)
Last edited by a moderator:
J
jamie2112
Banned
The best way for me to wash a car is to get someone else to do it
Sheep
Audioholic Warlord
Poorboy's makes a Natural look dressing that can be used on lots of things, exterior plastic, tires, interior. Lots of people on Detailingworld use this. I take it you like the matte finish, and not the typical armorall gloss grease. Check for matte finish products, or natural look like the Poorboys.Great thread Sheep! Do you have any suggestions on a good product for protecting the interior that I can buy in a store? My Mazda has a beautiful matte finish interior and I want to keep it that way. It isn't in a garage and we get a lot of sun in the spring and fall.
Also, any recommendations on an exterior wax? I'll be honest. I can be a bit lazy when it comes to waxing. I always wash the car using a method like you described but I am known to skip wax at times when I should not. The sad part is that I am using the easiest waxing product ever. Eagle One Nano Wax is what I have used on my car since I bought it two years ago. I use the matching car wash product and it seems to keep the water beading up for a long time between waxing. Is that stuff actually doing anything? It leaves the car silky smooth and shiny but how good can a spray on wax be? It still looks like new.
(I know the pictures are two years old but it doesn't look any different now
I used a Vinyl and leather conditioner on my parents cars and some cars at work and it really looks good. Nice matte finish that isn't greasy, and doesn't leave a haze or white powder. I do recommend a proper microfiber applicator for these, as you can smudge and scuff interior trim with terry towels.
For waxes, it's really what you prefer. Some are liquids like the spray wax you're using, which can give a good bead for a long time. Others will be significanty thicker and require far more work, but last longer, and really give that layer of protection. One thing you lose with spray waxes is the "cleaning" aspect. Cleaner waxes can fill small swirls and remove the oxidization and contaminants that impede the reflection of your paint. I would read up on products. I have a Zymol cleaner wax and some turtle wax I got as a gift. The Zymol goes on quite thick, even with a damp applicator, but has a good bead, and nice odor. It is however quite a pain to work with, and produces a fair bit of dust. I barely use the turtle wax, and the last time I did, I used 2 other waxes with it, so I couldn't tell just how well it worked on it's own. I mostly use the Carbrite products I have at work, which work well (the waxes at least) but are not readily available. I will tell you That Meguiar's is one of the bigger chain brands, I recommend their Hyper wash, as it's one of the best foaming washes out there. When I pick up my Karcher PW and Foaming gun, I'll do a write up on just how awesome foaming is.
SheepStar
Last edited by a moderator:
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