how to hook up B&W Matrix 804?

[jaross]

Just got em for super super cheap (under $150)! They look to be in good condition except they do not have their original tweeters. Even so, it would seem like I got em for a steal!

"Warning: Do not connect terminals to mains supply"

Does that mean that I cannot just run speaker wire from my receiver to the speakers? what do I need? And can anyone explain what the heck is a bass alignment filter (as I found some of on ebay when I searched for these speakers)?

I am not to concerned with bass as I have a Polk Audio Sub woofer. Right now I have ADS L710s hooked up, how do the B and W 804s compare?

The back of the B and Ws have four terminals with apparently a way of hooking them up to each other. Does each set of two terminals go to the midrange and the woofer? I assume I can have the gold pins connecting the two and just run a positive and negative speaker wire to them as usual???

 

[Adam]

Welcome to the forum, and congrats on your new speakers!

"Warning: Do not connect terminals to mains supply"

That just means to not plug them into your power outlets in the wall. From one of B&W's owner's manuals (but not for your specific model):

In certain countries, notably those in Europe, the use of 4mm banana plugs is considered a potential safety hazard, because they may be inserted into the holes of unshuttered mains supply sockets.​

The back of the B and Ws have four terminals with apparently a way of hooking them up to each other. Does each set of two terminals go to the midrange and the woofer? I assume I can have the gold pins connecting the two and just run a positive and negative speaker wire to them as usual???

By "gold pins", do you mean metal brackets that connect one set of terminals to the other? If so, then yes. One set probably sends power to the woofer, while the other set probably sends power to the midrange and tweeter. If you are unfamiliar with speakers that have two sets of terminals, please let us know (or look into it further) so that you don't damage the speakers or your receiver/amp when you connect up your system. We'll be happy to talk you through it.

Adam

 

[jaross]

By "gold pins", do you mean metal brackets that connect one set of terminals to the other? If so, then yes. One set probably sends power to the woofer, while the other set probably sends power to the midrange and tweeter. If you are unfamiliar with speakers that have two sets of terminals, please let us know (or look into it further) so that you don't damage the speakers or your receiver/amp when you connect up your system. We'll be happy to talk you through it.

Adam

thanks for the info.
Yes that is it. How do I hook them up?

also, they did come with Realistic external tweeters. do I just hook those up to the pins at the top where the original tweeters would have gone? They say 50W max on them.

also, any help on where I might find the original B and W tweeters or maybe some comparable ones? I have not heard the Realistics yet but they look too new to be good Realistic stuff..

 

[Adam]

Yes that is it. How do I hook them up?

Connect the metal brackets as shown in the picture below, and then connect your speaker wire to either the top or the bottom set of terminals.

also, they did come with Realistic external tweeters. do I just hook those up to the pins at the top where the original tweeters would have gone?

Do the tweeters have a model number on them?

 

[jaross]

dont know, here is what they have on them:

Realistic super tweeter, cat. no. 40-1310B, Frequency range 5,000-40,000Hz, 50w Maximum Music Program, 8 ohms internam crossover, Korea

 

[avaserfi]

There is an easy solution to this problem because B&W actually sells parts to the public so you can call them up and order a pair of tweeters for your 804s.

The following the the link to the B&W USA offices. I have called for part price inquires before and have always been treated very well. Another plus is that the parts are actually very well priced relative to their quality and other raw driver prices.

http://www.bowers-wilkins.com/display.aspx?infid=1427

 

[Adam]

According to this thread at diyaudio.com, the replacement tweeter is model number ZZ8532, and the replacement kit is the ZR8532. I found a set for sale on eBay, but the current bid is higher than the speakers cost you. Another sale on eBay in Germany (sale is over) also went for a high price.

EDIT: I see that Andrew gave you the direct link to B&W for parts. Perhaps they will be less expensive, but the thread that I linked to mentioned that B&W directed someone to a dealer, and the last post stated that a dealer this year said that the tweeters were $100. Just some info. By all means, I second Andrew's recommendation to contact them.

 

[mazersteven]

Refer to post #5 of this thread.

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48156

 

[Adam]

Realistic super tweeter, cat. no. 40-1310B, Frequency range 5,000-40,000Hz, 50w Maximum Music Program, 8 ohms internam crossover, Korea

Here is the owner's manual in PDF format for the original Super Tweeter (40-1310). I imagine that it is a similar or identical connection to what you would use with your add-on tweeters. Radio Shack has the manual for the 40-1310 and the 40-1310C, but not the 40-1310B.

 

[jaross]

Here is the owner's manual in PDF format for the original Super Tweeter (40-1310). I imagine that it is a similar or identical connection to what you would use with your add-on tweeters. Radio Shack has the manual for the 40-1310 and the 40-1310C, but not the 40-1310B.

When I hook them up like in that manual, they are too loud. when I hook them up to the terminals for the B and W tweeters they are way to quiet...

 

[Adam]

When I hook them up like in that manual, they are too loud.

I would suggest using a level control as recommended in the manual. That would just be a potentiometer (or rheostat). They cost less than $5. If you have a Radio Shack near you, they should be able to get two of those with the correct values.

 

[jaross]

I would suggest using a level control as recommended in the manual. That would just be a potentiometer (or rheostat). They cost less than $5. If you have a Radio Shack near you, they should be able to get two of those with the correct values.

Right on, thats easy enough (I thought that part was just for mounting inside the cabinet). These speakers are sweet, fill more of my room consistently then my old ADS L710. I really liked the ADS speakers and maybe they would have been better if my living room was not so small.

 

[WmAx]

You need to buy the original tweeters for them.

Even after doing this, the total price spent is a steal for what you are getting.

-Chris

 

[Adam]

You need to buy the original tweeters for them.

He doesn't need to buy the originals, Chris. Although, I'd agree that he's probably better off doing that.

 

[WmAx]

He doesn't need to buy the originals, Chris. Although, I'd agree that he's probably better off doing that.

The crossover is specifically designed for the original tweeters. The chance of picking a random different tweeter and getting the correct target response is extremely small.

-Chris

 

[Adam]

The crossover is specifically designed for the original tweeters. The chance of picking a random different tweeter and getting the correct target response is extremely small.

I'm not arguing with you on that! My point is just that the OP might be perfectly happy with how things sound (after spending about $5 more on level controls) - that seemed to be the flavor of the last post. There's a difference between what is needed for the correct target response and what is needed for enjoyment. IMO, your initial statement was either too strong or just incomplete. I don't mean any of that as an insult.

 

[WmAx]

I'm not arguing with you on that! My point is just that the OP might be perfectly happy with how things sound (after spending about $5 more on level controls) - that seemed to be the flavor of the last post. There's a difference between what is needed for the correct target response and what is needed for enjoyment. IMO, your initial statement was either too strong or just incomplete. I don't mean any of that as an insult.

I made the statement claiming 'need' in presumption that the objective was high fidelity sound, or at least, the highest fidelity that this speaker is capable of producing. To fulfill this goal, the original tweeter is needed unless one is going to re-engineer the crossover network for a different tweeter.

Of course, no one 'needs' a tweeter, nor do they 'need' the cabinet, even. You could simply hook up the raw drivers in open air and get sound.

-Chris

 

[jaross]

This setup without the original tweeters is just a temp setup. I plan on getting the original tweeters and apparently I need a new sub for one too. hopefully that wont be too expensive from B & W but even if it was all $400 I would still have paid a fraction of what I hear they are worth!

so another question arises then; which receiver to use?

-Denon DRA-355 150w 8-16 ohms

or

-Onkyo TX-8511 120w 4 or 8 ohms

and how hard should I be able to push these speakers?

Anyone know what watt they are rated at and what ohms?

 

[Seth=L]

That's an amazing bargain you got. As others have mentioned the original tweeters will make them sound their best (hopefully breathtaking).

I found on another forum (here) that the tweeters themselves cost $200 a piece. This was in 2003. I would make a quick pass on eBay and google search for the tweeter itself. Maybe you can get a good deal on some gently used tweeters parted out of some compromised Matrix 804s.

B&W seems to have dropped support info about these speakers. My quick pan through google found no specifications. Rest assured, one of these steadfast gentlemen (or if you are lucky a kind woman) will find that information.

Most B&W speakers are rated 8 ohms nominally and typically have very reasonable efficiency ratings. Both of those receivers could drive those speakers to modest levels of output with the original tweeter properly installed.

 

[Adam]

Anyone know what watt they are rated at and what ohms?

Here's the B&W product sheet.

8 ohms nominal, 4 ohms minimum. 50W - 200W into 8 ohms.