How hard can it be to hang curtains?

[MDS]

I fee lilke venting.

As part of my mile long list of stuff to do around the house before I get to the important stuff (new TV, receiver, speakers, etc) I wanted to hang curtains. Not exactly rocket science, right?

Well...the simple things never are simple.

First, there is metal flashing around the windows. My builders apparently put incredibly strong aluminum or steel and extended it much further than the 1/4" or so beyond the frame it would normally be. You CANNOT drill through that crap!

So I research what kind of bit is best and the answer is apparently Cobalt bits for mild steel. Yeah, right. Still doesn't work. Being the problem solver type I decided a center punch might do it, so I bought one and an Awl. The Awl works like a charm - start to drill the pilot hole and when it stops when it encounters the aluminum, whip out the Awl and tap on it. Now you have a little hole in the aluminum and can get the screw started.

So now my toolbox contains a brand new set of Cobalt drill bits which were worthless for their intended purpose, a center punch I'll probably never use, and an Awl which even if I never use again has already paid for itself.

There I feel better...and my curtains are hung.

 

[Audioholics]

Dang, I love wood construction even more now! Of course, you'll never get termites...

 

[stratman]

MDS,

Next time get self-tapping metal screws, they have a "bit" tip that makes short work of metal.

 

[MDS]

I'll think about self tapping screws if I encounter a similar problem next time. However, I am leery of all these wonderful screws and anchors that supposedly make everything easier.

Ever used the E-Z Anchor drywall anchors that say they are self tapping and stud proof and will drill themselves right through even if you encounter a wood stud? Maybe if the wood is soft or rotted but they didn't work so well for my blind hanging adventure in my office a few months ago.

 

[Matt34]

I'll think about self tapping screws if I encounter a similar problem next time. However, I am leery of all these wonderful screws and anchors that supposedly make everything easier.

Ever used the E-Z Anchor drywall anchors that say they are self tapping and stud proof and will drill themselves right through even if you encounter a wood stud? Maybe if the wood is soft or rotted but they didn't work so well for my blind hanging adventure in my office a few months ago.

Hehe, I know all to well about the E-Z anchors, destroyed two of them when I accidentally tried to run them through a stud.

I had to drill a hole through my transmission tunnel in my car to run a wideband AFR cable to the exhaust. Only the 3/4" bit was long enough to reach so I had to go at it with no pilot holes and two batteries on my 14 volt drill. Took almost two hours.

 

[Bryce_H]

I love those E-Z achors, but only used them where there are no studs - never heard of them being able to go into studs

 

[Matt34]

I love those E-Z achors, but only used them where there are no studs - never heard of them being able to go into studs

There are some models that advertise that they will go through a stud if you run into one unintentionally.

 

[The Dukester]

Those would be self drilling screws, not self tapping, my good cave dweller. You still have to drill a hole for self tapping. Some folks call them "drill point" screws. I order them by the thousands for my installation and service guys. They are great! We even use some 1/4" self drillers to go through 1/4" thick red iron.




[nQUOTE=stratman;267362]MDS,

Next time get self-tapping metal screws, they have a "bit" tip that makes short work of metal.[/QUOTE]

 

[stratman]

I stand corrected

 

[highfihoney]

I stand corrected

Dont feel bad though,ive been using them daily for 30 years & i call them self tapers too,infact everybody i know calls them self tapers,go figure

 

[stratman]

I guess the confusion stands from the point (no pun intended)that as the screw opens the hole it simultaneously taps it. I guess.

 

[majorloser]

Plan "B": Patch the damn hole and drill a new hole out 2" wider to get past the steel corner flashing.

The worst thing is when you're installing window blinds flush with the inside edge of one of those windows. Guarantied to hit that damn flashing at every hanger.

Like my daddy used to say, "Everything is a f****** project that requires at least two trips to the hardware store."

 

[MDS]

Plan "B": Patch the damn hole and drill a new hole out 2" wider to get past the steel corner flashing.

The worst thing is when you're installing window blinds flush with the inside edge of one of those windows. Guarantied to hit that damn flashing at every hanger.

Like my daddy used to say, "Everything is a f****** project that requires at least two trips to the hardware store."

Plan B is a no-go for me because I'm silly and want the stupid bracket screwed into a stud, which brings up another peeve. The drywall is 1/2" thick so why do the curtain rods come with 3/4" screws? After you take into account the thickness of the bracket itself, that would leave less than a 1/4" of the screw to actually go into the stud.

Been there, done that with blinds. So far I've replaced 11 of the 15 blinds in the house. On a few of them I've encountered the metal flashing as well as what must be a knot in the wood that is so hard you can't even get the screw in with the cordless drill. So I wood fill the hole, touch up the paint, and use the other mounting holes.

Another thing about the blinds (Levolor - faux wood) is you really should use the center bracket for the blinds that are longer than 36", BUT when you mount the side brackets near flush to the top of the window, the center bracket is not long enough so you have to fashion a hack with washers and another trip to the store for longer screws. I've got it down now - mount the brackets about 1/4" below the top on the sides of the window frame.

Your dad is absolutely correct and that is what prompted me to start this thread. Why does everything that should be simple turn out to be a major headache? Soon I'll have to buy a new standing tool chest because I keep buying tools and fasteners and miscellaneous crap for these stupid little projects and I'm running out of space in the current toolbox.

What I've learned about 'home improvement' is that I like when it is done, but I don't like doing it at all.

 

[majorloser]

You can use plastic "moly" anchors or the screw-in anchors. When using the screw-in anchors I find it easier to drive the anchor screw in first just to see of there's a stub in the way then screw in the plastic (or metal) anchor. The metal ones can handle about 70 lbs. each.

The only problem with the screw-in anchors is when you remove them you have a bigger hole to patch. But they are damn easy to work with.

These will work even if you hit a wood stud:

http://www.itwbrands.com/product_details.aspx?id=3

 

[mtrycrafts]

You can use plastic "moly" anchors or the screw-in anchors. When using the screw-in anchors I find it easier to drive the anchor screw in first just to see of there's a stub in the way then screw in the plastic (or metal) anchor. The metal ones can handle about 70 lbs. each.

The only problem with the screw-in anchors is when you remove them you have a bigger hole to patch. But they are damn easy to work with.

These will work even if you hit a wood stud:

http://www.itwbrands.com/product_details.aspx?id=3

Those will. They are new designs on that tip. But, that is a thick body to drive into wood without predrilling to body diameter. That is a lot of wood to push out of the way. I bet they may break part way or twist too much. I rather use them strictly in drywall.

 

[Tomorrow]

There are some models that advertise that they will go through a stud if you run into one unintentionally.

Er...Advertising models running into studs? Sounds like a cheesy movie plot line.