Hoping to get some pointers here

[Soccerkid830]

Hey everybody, I'm new here and hoping to grab a few tips ,

I'm a college student, sorta set on a goal to make a semi-decent home audio system while I'm here. Last year I got a Sony DAV-HDX265 HTIB system and soon found out that these are not worthwhile to be honest, this is where hopefully I can pick up some quick tips.


I recently bought the Onkyo HT-RC160 receiver for just under $300 shipped. However, I am still using the Sony receiver. I also managed the pick up a pair of older Technics SB-A27's that I currently am using as my front two speakers. Then I replaced the tiny surround speakers from the HTIB with the originally front speakers for the time being. The center channel on the receiver doesn't seem to function at all, so I'm at a 4.1 system with a passive 8"?? sub I believe. Not quite sure on that though.


So the questions I have...
I've been looking at a few different subwoofers, the Sony SA-W3000, and the Dayton Sub-120. They are each $100-150 or so, and seem to have similar reviews in that they tend to be a bit boomy, but they are cheap subs and I know this. So any reasons to choose/avoid either sub, or choosing a completely different sub, hopefully <$150 would be great . And being as this receiver is a 7.2, should I go ahead and make it a full 7.2 with two subs, or would 1 be adequate?

The next speakers I'm looking at are the Sony SS-F6000 speakers.
I've read some pretty good reviews on these speakers as well and found them for $98 a pair so I was thinking of getting these to possibly replace my Technics speakers as the front L/R channels, putting the Technics either on the side or behind the couch, depending what sounds better, and continuing to use the original Sony front speakers as wall mounted surrounds or something of the sort.

One last note that I can think of right now, the speaker wire that came with the HTIB and I'm still using is either 16 or maybe even 18 gauge wire, is it noticeable to use a lower gauge, and if so, should I buy some new wire? Most forums I find I see people using 12 and sometimes even 10 gauge wire, so I was thinking I should step it up a bit.

So, sorry for the long winded write up, but any suggestions and comments would be fantastic!

 

[jostenmeat]

Can we get you to stretch budget for sub by $54? Then you can have two subs, Dayton 100HT x 2, and add polyester pillow to each, $3 per.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-633

WmAx's recommendation:
http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showpost.php?p=653067&postcount=8

Yes, you were looking at towers, but by adding a sub to each respective main do you cumulatively have a tower, so to speak, but with much better performance.

Spend a little more, get a lot more in return?

HTIB speaker wire will be 18 gauge at best. Depending on how short the runs are, you might be still fine. 16 gauge is enough for most runs and most speakers. Try this page, scroll down a tiny bit, for the chart:
http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm

 

[jamie2112]

Jostenmeat gave you the best advice IMO.

 

[Soccerkid830]

Can we get you to stretch budget for sub by $54? Then you can have two subs, Dayton 100HT x 2, and add polyester pillow to each, $3 per.

That sub I listed, the Dayton Sub-120, I was planning on actually getting two of them, would those be better than the Sub-100s? Or what?

 

[jostenmeat]

That sub I listed, the Dayton Sub-120, I was planning on actually getting two of them, would those be better than the Sub-100s? Or what?

I don't know. Generally, the bigger model gets you extension, perhaps efficiency, and the smaller one gets you better upper freq response (easier match/blend with a greater variety of bookshelves). Also, WmAx would tell you that the larger box would suffer from greater cabinet resonances, but OTOH that's something you can help out with mods. You would have to talk to someone who measured these subs to know how little or much you give up with any particular measurement.

I guess I'd go for the 12's for no real good reason that I can offer you. Sorry that I can't be of more help. What I will say it that the speakers should get by far most of the focus. Let's say you xover at around 80hz. For 99.999% of the time, the sub is going to get maybe only one octave to be responsible for. The speaker will be responsible for many octaves.

 

[Soccerkid830]

Well Jostenmeat, you're definitely helping me. It seems like I could probably get away with get two 10's instead of 12's and have plenty of bass, or at least seem like it as right now I only have an 8" passive sub. So really, anything is going to be an upgrade.

About the fronts though, do you know anything about those ss-f6000's?

Same with center channel speakers, I haven't done much to look into centers but I do not really have a buncha money to just be throwing around, being a college student and all .....

 

[jostenmeat]

About the fronts though, do you know anything about those ss-f6000's?

I sure don't, however, I once perused a Consumer Reports mag on electronics, and Sony speakers were on top. HOWEVER, CR is a far cry from a place like AH!! What I mean is that I have no idea, but they might be "alright". . . yet the speakers you will see talked about here will surely blow them away. And remember that outfits like CR, even CNET, get very, very few speakers to compare . . .

Same with center channel speakers, I haven't done much to look into centers but I do not really have a buncha money to just be throwing around, being a college student and all .....

The ideal is to use the same lineup of speaker for the center, to match so to speak. The best match is actually the identical speaker as the main, vertically arrayed, on the same plane. Yes, less than 1% of the people get to do that . . . but when you see the hi-end theaters, with acoustically transparent screen. . . yep, 3 identical speakers on the same plane.

I honestly am just a little surprised that I don't see more flat panels that are wall mounted, with 3 identical speakers arrayed below. I suppose rooms are small enough, that the electronics MUST go into a cabinet below the TV. Yet. . . a URC radio freq remote system is just under $80, and a 35 ft HDMI cable from Monoprice is maybe $50 if not less actually (hide the stuff anywhere else) . . . no electronics in sight means no lights to reduce visual contrast. No large cabinet/mass between the speakers is a good thing for stereo/mch reproduction. Etc.

 

[Soccerkid830]

Well, thanks again for all your help! I'll definitely take it all into consideration .