hooking up bi-wire speakers to suround channels

P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
jonnythan said:
"the current it needs for the woofers (and they need lots of current) through one speaker cable, while the midrange tweeter section would draw less current (it doesn't need as much) through its own speaker cable."

Sure, they're coming through separate *speaker cables*, but they're coming from the exact same binding post at the amplifier, and the exact same internal wiring from the amplifier. Do you get that? All of the current is passing through a single binding post on the amp - it doesn't matter if it splits into two wires immediately after that gold post or ten feet after that gold post.

Both the "low" frequencies and the "high" frequencies are passing through the single wire that connects to the single binding post on the back of the amp.

Drop an ohmmeter in between the two "separate" red posts or black posts on the back of the speaker and you will measure a resistance of a big fat 0.

How about if you use one wire halfway to the speaker, then break it into two wires?

What if you use one wire all the way to the speaker, but break it into two wires four inches before the terminals?

What if you use one wire an inch long that then breaks into two wires for the rest of the run?

These are all 100% identical electrically.

PENG, think about it for a second. Look at the red binding post on the back of the amp. See how it goes into the amplifier? All of the current for both drivers (assuming a two driver speaker) is going through that single gold post. It's got to split to two cables somewhere between that gold post and the crossover network. When you have two wires between that post and the speaker, how is that different than having what is essentially an extension of the post that doesn't split until the speaker binding post?
Johnny, I did think about the theory behind this a lot before I posted. I actually measured the current in each pair of the bi-wire cables. The pair that goes to the low frequency crossover/drivers binding posts did draw much higher current as expected. If I had a scope and a spectrum analyser, I have no doubt it would have shown that the frequencies in one pair would be mainly high frequencies and in the other mainly low frequencies. You can do it yourself if you have bi-wireable speakers.

I have never said this would mean an audible difference in sound, all I am saying, is that those who claim bi-wiring allows the amp to send signals of different frequency bands to each pair of wires (including What*hi*fi magazine, Axiom, and many other speaker manufacturers) are valid and are based on basic electrical theory.

Let’s consider the following (just one channel):

1) We agree both pair of wires (bi-wire) is connected to the same pair output binding posts at the amp.

2) We agree that the two pair of cables have identical impedance but with the link at the speaker removed, one pair will be connected to the low frequency XO/drivers binding posts and the other to the high freq ones.

3) Ohm's law say V=IZ, or I=V/Z, Z being the impedance.

Let’s call the path from the amp to the speaker’s internal L.F. XO terminal (via the unlinked binding posts) path A and the one from the SAME terminals at the amp to the speaker’s internal H.F. XO path B.

Impedance of path A= Impedance of cable A (negligible for short 12 gad. runs)+Impedance of L.F. XO
Impedance of path B=Impedance of cable B (same as A’s) Impedance of H.F. XO

The above is true because the each path consists of basically two components in series. The overall impedance of each path is predominantly dependent on the XO/drivers as the impedance of the cables are very low. I am excluding the impedance of the drivers for now to make things less complicated.

Assuming we do agree the impedance of cable A and B are the same and are negligible due to the same gauge, length etc., and are negligible for short runs of 12 gauge wires, we still end up with path A having a different impedance than path B.

Path A’s overall impedance would be much higher for high frequency signals and much lower for low frequency signals. Path B will behave in an opposite way. Remember the low frequency XO network/drivers and the high frequency XO network/drivers are no longer connected together inside the speaker box once the links are removed.

I know you keep making the point about the two bi-wired pairs are still connected to the same terminals at the amp, but there is no argument here. Only that, just because they both originate from the same point does not negate the bi-wire effect from a purely electrical stand point. May be you can think for a second too, everything in you house are ultimately connected to the same incoming cable from the utility company, are you saying then the currents in all of your circuits are the same, whether they are terminated at your amp, TV set of light bulbs?

This is probably my last attempt to try and dispel the myth (exist over the web) that I quoted in my first post and I would like to say one more time: I am NOT saying bi-wiring would or would not make any audible sound difference. I am NOT suggesting there is any different in impedance between those red binding posts. I totally agree that the impedance of each pair of the cables used in the bi-wire configuration would be the same as long as the lengths are roughly the same. But I am saying that, due to the different impedance vs frequency characteristics of the high and low frequency networks (filters), the H.F. cable will end up carrying mostly H.F. signals and the L.F. cable will end up carrying mostly L.F. signals, regardless of the same negligible impedance of the cables themselves. It’s the XO’s that draw the signal current they prefer, from the amp (yes, the same terminals, already agree). Thank you Johnny, and everyone else…..
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
mtrycrafts said:
Impedance is frequency dependent, right? So, the impedance the low driver and crossover sees is that wire from the amp to the terminals and the crossover. Same applies going to the tweeter, it sees the same cable.
If you bi-wire, with the same ga. the tweeter still sees the same impedance; frequency dependant.
But in bi-wire the signal currents have a choice of two paths. One that presents (to the amp) a high impedance to H.F., the one presents a high impedance to L.F. So why don't you agree the amp (yes the same source) would send signals of different freq down the paths due to the different impedances imposed on the amp by the two different crossovers that are electrically separated from each other without the link. That is the "electrical" difference I have been talking about, nothing more.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
mtrycrafts said:
It might be best to get information from other sources that Jon Risch.
He is the one that every tweak makes sense to him, including CD demagnetization, etc.
Got you, but I did post a link to Axiom's. I'll try other sources when I get a chance. Speaker manufacturers should know the theory behind this, right? If not, try Bryston!

Electrical/electronic theory is not always easy to understand, no matter how basic it is to EE's.
 
Resident Loser

Resident Loser

Senior Audioholic
These...

klippity said:
Forgive me if this is a dumb question, but I have been away from audio for about 25 years.

First, some background. I just acquired a pair of Vandersteen 2C speakers. These have bi-wire input capability. To drive them, I ditched my old Onkyo receiver and bought a Denon AVR-3805. In reading reviews of the 3805, I see there is a way to bi-amp the Front Main speakers by hijacking the Zone 3 amp and the Surround Back channel.

My question is: If the only speakers I have are the Vandersteens, can I do the bi-amp setup by simply using, say, Surround A, to be the second amp in the bi-amp setup? I would wire one pair of speaker terminals to Front Main, and the other to Surround A, then set the delay to be zero and the size to Large for both. Is this a bad idea and if so, why? Be gentle!
...wiring schemes are not true bi-amping...The basic premise of bi-amping is the division of labor...the signal is sent from the preamp outputs into an electronic crossover which there and then separates the appropriate frequency bands and in turn sends those slices to the amplifiers and on to the respective drivers.

Now for something completely different...

"Bi-amping" from a single source as described in your quote, does not achieve this...all channels ultimately get their working voltages from a common power supply. Even using two separate, stereo amplifiers (which eliminates that commonality), still sends the entire FR of the signal through each amp and to each speaker and it is at the internal Xover that the slicing and dicing begins...there is a reason they are referred to as pass-band filters; they recieve the entire signal at their inputs and pass the respective bands to the appropriate drivers.

"Bi-wiring" (a completely different concept), as was stated by one of the posters, simply moves the jumper point from the speaker terminals to the rear of the amp/reciever. Any difference in resistance/capacitance/etc. due to the additional wire involved is negligible IMO. However, having said that, if certain loudspeaker systems are manufactured with those differences taken into account as a part of their overall design, performance can then be "optimized" to realize the designers goals...Whether those goals are audible is another story. BTW, that pass-band concept still applies with "bi-wiring"...or is it buy-wiring as same have suggested.

Whether or not a schematic looks any different, which they obviously will, the only real difference will be due to those changing parameters...but they are still negligible.

There are those on the internet, to paraphrase a quote re:Will Rogers, "...who never met a tweak he didn't like...". There are those who, in support of their specific agenda, point to and cite endless links that that they themselves have written, which, to me, seems a self-aggrandizing conflict of interest. I think information from a disinterested third party is far more reliable and it's out there, if one only takes the time to look.

Here's one:

http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp.htm

jimHJJ(...good luck and good listening...)
 
jonnythan

jonnythan

Audioholic Ninja
*bangs head on wall*

You insist on looking at the cables, not the circuit.

Let's look at the standard configuration for a second.

The shunt connecting post 1 to post 2 carries ONLY LOW FREQUENCIES and the wire connected to the interior of binding post 1 carries ONLY HIGH FREQUENCIES. *wow*! These speakers are ALREADY BI-WIRED!

It *does not matter at all* whether this "split" occurs at the amp binding post or the speaker binding post.
 
jonnythan

jonnythan

Audioholic Ninja
Check out this picture. One is a bi-wire setup and the other is traditional. I've used only the red binding post to simplify the picture.

Notice that *the only difference* is the amount of wiring before the branch.

The current carried by the wires immediately preceeding the crossovers are *identical* in each configuration. The current moving through the amp's binding post is *identical* in each configuration.
 

Attachments

jonnythan

jonnythan

Audioholic Ninja
"Assuming we do agree the impedance of cable A and B are the same and are negligible due to the same gauge, length etc., and are negligible for short runs of 12 gauge wires, we still end up with path A having a different impedance than path B."

No kidding. This statement is 100% true whether biwiring or not.
 
mulester7

mulester7

Audioholic Samurai
Resident Loser said:
...wiring schemes are not true bi-amping...The basic premise of bi-amping is the division of labor...the signal is sent from the preamp outputs into an electronic crossover which there and then separates the appropriate frequency bands and in turn sends those slices to the amplifiers and on to the respective drivers.

Now for something completely different...

"Bi-amping" from a single source as described in your quote, does not achieve this...all channels ultimately get their working voltages from a common power supply. Even using two separate, stereo amplifiers (which eliminates that commonality), still sends the entire FR of the signal through each amp and to each speaker and it is at the internal Xover that the slicing and dicing begins...there is a reason they are referred to as pass-band filters; they recieve the entire signal at their inputs and pass the respective bands to the appropriate drivers.

"Bi-wiring" (a completely different concept), as was stated by one of the posters, simply moves the jumper point from the speaker terminals to the rear of the amp/reciever. Any difference in resistance/capacitance/etc. due to the additional wire involved is negligible IMO. However, having said that, if certain loudspeaker systems are manufactured with those differences taken into account as a part of their overall design, performance can then be "optimized" to realize the designers goals...Whether those goals are audible is another story. BTW, that pass-band concept still applies with "bi-wiring"...or is it buy-wiring as same have suggested.

Whether or not a schematic looks any different, which they obviously will, the only real difference will be due to those changing parameters...but they are still negligible.

There are those on the internet, to paraphrase a quote re:Will Rogers, "...who never met a tweak he didn't like...". There are those who, in support of their specific agenda, point to and cite endless links that that they themselves have written, which, to me, seems a self-aggrandizing conflict of interest. I think information from a disinterested third party is far more reliable and it's out there, if one only takes the time to look.

Here's one:

http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp.htm

jimHJJ(...good luck and good listening...)
.....there it is, IMO....

.....Peng, your cognitive reasoning abilities are strong, and you're in high gear on this topic....that's great, you're thinking, and more of us need to do that instead of lying down and blindly accepting cannon-fodder from Mortimer.....

.....Peng, I offer this for consideration....after the full-range amplified signal leaves the amp's posts, be it a paralleled bi-wiring configuration or single, the only transducers involved are the voice-coils of the speaker elements....a woofer demands more current in the form of inductance to move a larger cone, sure, and the signal is full-range when it leaves the amp terminals....remove the crossover, and see what arrives at the voice-coils, that the voice-coils must try to reproduce, as they heat up from being asked to reproduce that which is outside of their range of frequency reproducing capabilities, manifesting "distortion"....correct, the full-range signal....how do you know this?....remove the crossover, and it becomes apparent quickly....put the crossover back, the crossover intercepts that full-range signal again as normal, and all's well in Pleasantville.....

.....but hey, if one owns bi-wireable/bi-ampable speakers, and he feels it could help the sound quality to parallel wire at the amp's terminals, what does it hurt?, and what's he out?....it hurts nothing, and he's out a few feet of speaker wire, and once again, wire's cheap.....
 
S

sivadselim

Audioholic
The original poster asked about using the spare amps in his receiver to passively bi-amp his speakers. He asked nothing about biwiring or anyone's opinion of biwiring, for that matter.

klippity, here is an article about how to use the extra amps to passively bi-amp with a 5803.

http://www.audioholics.com/productreviews/avhardware/Denon-AVR3805_review04.php

The "trick" is the looping of the front pre-outs back into an unused analog input (such as CD) and the assignment of this input to Zone2 or Zone3.

Now, that said, the benefits of passively bi-amping with a receiver whose amplifier's share a common power supply are marginal.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
mulester7 said:
.....there it is, IMO....

.....Peng, your cognitive reasoning abilities are strong, and you're in high gear on this topic....that's great, you're thinking, and more of us need to do that instead of lying down and blindly accepting cannon-fodder from Mortimer.....

.....Peng, I offer this for consideration....after the full-range amplified signal leaves the amp's posts, be it a paralleled bi-wiring configuration or single, the only transducers involved are the voice-coils of the speaker elements....a woofer demands more current in the form of inductance to move a larger cone, sure, and the signal is full-range when it leaves the amp terminals....remove the crossover, and see what arrives at the voice-coils, that the voice-coils must try to reproduce, as they heat up from being asked to reproduce that which is outside of their range of frequency reproducing capabilities, manifesting "distortion"....correct, the full-range signal....how do you know this?....remove the crossover, and it becomes apparent quickly....put the crossover back, the crossover intercepts that full-range signal again as normal, and all's well in Pleasantville.....

.....but hey, if one owns bi-wireable/bi-ampable speakers, and he feels it could help the sound quality to parallel wire at the amp's terminals, what does it hurt?, and what's he out?....it hurts nothing, and he's out a few feet of speaker wire, and once again, wire's cheap.....
I agree with you, and I never said the speakers would sound better either way. Yes, the crossovers will function the same way. The amp will also work the same way, it does not see any change in the way it is loaded regardless of whether one or two pairs of wires are connected to it as long as the wire size is not an issue.

All I am saying is that the signals in the H.F. and L.F. cables in the bi-wire case is different, i.e. the H.F. flows in one pair and the L.F. flows in the other as opposed to F.R. flowing in one single pair. How that might affect the sound of the speakers in the end is explained in a few speaker manufacturer's sites including B&W, Axiom, and others. As I said before, I for one, had tried bi-wire and did not hear a difference. Anyway, I do appreciate what you are saying.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
jonnythan said:
Check out this picture. One is a bi-wire setup and the other is traditional. I've used only the red binding post to simplify the picture.

Notice that *the only difference* is the amount of wiring before the branch.

The current carried by the wires immediately preceeding the crossovers are *identical* in each configuration. The current moving through the amp's binding post is *identical* in each configuration.
Thank you for taking the time to draw me those diagrams. I don't think we are arguing a whole lot.

1) The currents carried by the wires immediately preceeding the crossovers are the same (ignoring any distortion factors) in each configuration if you meant the wire between the speaker terminals and the crossovers.

2) I agree the current moving through the amp's binding post is identical in each configuration, I have never claimed anything otherwise. However, the currents that comes out of the binding posts, to the speaker cables, are split in the bi-wire case. How it splits, depends on the impedance (freq dependent) of the crossovers at the speaker end.

3) In the end, the crossovers will still send the same current (again, I never said anything otherwise) to the L.F., M.F., H.F. drivers respectively. The currents are the same, but if I understand correct, the believers (NOT me..yet) claim that in the bi-wire case, the signals get less distorted while flowing down the speaker cables. Try reading the FAQ section at the B&W site or others. Their explanations varied slightly in terms of the emphasis and are too lengthy to quote here.

Thanks again.
 
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P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
jonnythan said:
*bangs head on wall*

You insist on looking at the cables, not the circuit.
Yes I did, cables only. No difference in terms of how the amp, the crossovers and the voice coils function. I have only commented on the reasons why there is in fact a difference in the frequency ranges of the signals in the two cables used in bi-wire configuration, nothing more. In terms of why and how then, does bi-wiring affect the sound, I would refer anyone interested, to visit a few speaker manufacturer's site.
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
PENG said:
How about this link to Vandersteen's FAQ area?

http://www.vandersteen.com/pages/Answr7.htm

At least the original poster owns one of their speakers.
Not east to understand, yes:)
I am surprised at Vandersteen. All speakers that have the 4 posts for bi-wiring have their crossovers separated.
I am also surprised he didn't reference any papers on such IM issues from the currents or their magnitudes, preferably the dB levels.
Paradigm, as I think I mentioned, has such bi-wire capability and the testing bed in house before making their recommendations. When I questioned them, no such evidence exists, that there is a real benefit.

http://www.st-andrews.ac.uk/~www_pa/Scots_Guide/audio/biwire/Page1.html

Krueger had an on line paper with calcs but don't have it now. I should have thrown out the kitchen sink instead:D

Where is Jneutron when you need him??? He would have some answers and maybe numbers.
 
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mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
PENG said:
But in bi-wire the signal currents have a choice of two paths. One that presents (to the amp) a high impedance to H.F., the one presents a high impedance to L.F. So why don't you agree the amp (yes the same source) would send signals of different freq down the paths due to the different impedances imposed on the amp by the two different crossovers that are electrically separated from each other without the link. That is the "electrical" difference I have been talking about, nothing more.

I think I am agreeing with you about the frequency dependent currents would be different in each cable. In the high frequency cable, the low frequency current would be duplicating the crossover slopes tapering effect. Same in the low frequency cable for the high frequency currents.
But, there is no such impedance restriction to the voltage all the way to the crossover.
As was mentioned about the house wiring. While each branch has a different current, load driven, the voltages are the same on all branches. that is all I was trying to clear up, obviously not well enough.

Now then, the issue is the IM effects due to the various levels of current in a single run of wires to the speaker terminals. But, you would have the same IM issue inside the amp from the speaker terminal back inside the amp that would not disappear when two wires are run; the IM would be there already.

And, you would have such IM issues in the low cable when you have high current at 30Hz and low current at 65Hz. Or, in the high frequency cable when you have a current peak at 250Hz, vs 5kHz, as an example. I just don't buy this aspect until I see something concrete.
Risch tried to do this but messed it up royally and just cannot see his mistakes.
 
R

Rÿche 1

Audioholic
<yawns> bi-wiring does nothing but lighten your wallet even more, for the extra wire it requires...Next topic...
 
mulester7

mulester7

Audioholic Samurai
.....Mtry, you made many comments in this thread just like others did, and "all" the comments were conjectured from reasoning with "no" means of scientific measurement to back "anything" up....Richard Vandersteen made comments in the links that were also based on conjecture, and if there were a method of scientifically measuring his claims, you can bet your bottom dollar he would have come up with scientific measurements in order to sell speakers....here's my point....you have maintained over-and-over in the past that "everything" pertaining to what we hear from our equipment from start to finish can be scientifically measured....why couldn't the issue here be measured?....correct, you can't measure many aspects of "sound quality"....only the ears can distinguish or appreciate......
 
N

Nuglets

Full Audioholic
jonnythan said:
That's really, really stupid.

Sure, they're coming through separate *speaker cables*, but they're coming from the exact same binding post at the amplifier, and the exact same internal wiring from the amplifier. Do you get that? All of the current is passing through a single binding post on the amp - it doesn't matter if it splits into two wires immediately after that gold post or ten feet after that gold post.
Well I think you guys are arguing about 2 different things...I believe jonny and mulester are explaining the theory behind bi-wiring(1 amp 2 sets of wires per speaker) and PENG was originally talking about bi-amping(requiring 2 amps). I also think the original question was about bi-amping with a reciever using his Main outputs and Zone 3 outputs(separate binding posts).
 
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N

Nuglets

Full Audioholic
Actually, nevermind, you are all talking about bi-wiring...except the person who asked the question.
 

kmckenn

Audiophyte
PREFACE: The following comments are on real-life experience ONLY, and we are not talking hair-splitting differences, we are talking about IN YOUR FACE differences.

This runs the risk of being a over wordy/long post, I will try to keep it as short as possible. In a nutshell, don't worry about bi-amp'ing with the Denon's Amps... yes, the biwiring, or bi-amp'ing will increase the quality... "BUT"... you are SO CLOSE to a sound quality you can not imagine, please don't dop it, take that extra step!

Hook your disc player up to your 3805 DIGITALLY (Coax or Optical, do NOT use your disc players DAC's). Use your Denon 3805 as a pre/pro for your front main speakers (I sure hope you are using the Vandersteen 2C's for that), do whatever it takes to get hold of an old, used B&K ST140, 202, or 202+ (the latter being the best choice), and use the pre-outs in the 3805. Get some high-grade interconnects (I use the old MIT MI-500 Spectrals) and by all means BI-WIRE (if not BI-AMP (w/2 B&K amps, using Zone2 outputs)) the Vandersteens, and get some GOOD Speaker Cables (I am using the MIT AVt2's $400 retail, I paid $200/pr)... Audioquest makes a lot of VERY GOOD cable solutions.

If/When you listen to CD Music, use DIRECT MODE, you can use NEO 6, but make sure its set in MUSIC Mode, and lastly use the TONE DEFEAT. I dont care how sexy the equalizer settings are, or tone control, the sacrafice you make for that in sound QUALITY (IE - not degraded) is unforgivable. I went through every mode on the Denon, and made sure TONE DEFEAT was active, its SAD what it does to the QUALITY of the signal.

I know this is an investment in someone's word you have never seen, met, or known in any way, "BUT"... I have owned my Vandersteen 2C's since 1988, when I had also bought one of the finest CD Players available (a $1200 "Mod Squad Prism" a Magnavox CDB650 mod'd by Steve McCormack of McCormack Audio (smcaudio dot ...)) and one of the finest (passive) preamp's of the day ($1200 "Mod Squad Line Drive Deluxe") on a $1200 PS-Audio 100w amp (the biggest mistake/weak link in my system of those days). My system back then was magnificent by any standard. Since then, by CD-Player died, and I have put in a CHEAP Sony ($90) disc player. I lost the left channel on the PS-Audio Amp, the Pre-amp was taken out of service and a Denon 2802 put in, and my once sweet stereo system became a common place A/V "thing". A friend of mine hooked me up with a B&K ST202 amp, I put into service as I described above, and it took me about .5 sec (yes 1/2 of a second) to realize I was hearing sound quality I'd never dreamt of before.

You own 2 very KEY elements in a staggeringly beautiful Stereo system. Do yourself one of life's biggest favors, and get a B&K Amp, some SERIOUS QUALITY Cables and Interconnects, and you will hear sounds that will rival *ANY* "HIGH-END" ($$$ no object) system.

There are a lot more pieces in my story here, but I am trying to keep is short.

I joined this forum ONLY because I saw the post of Vandersteens and a Denon 3805, and I *KNOW* how insanely beautiful this combination CAN BE, and I HAD TO tell someone.

P.S. - I am going to our semi-local HIGH-END stereo shop, and picking up a demo Denon 3806, just strictly to "Audition" the DAC's used in it (same as 3805) over the ones in my 2802.

If you can't get yourself to take this BLIND LEAP OF FAITH, you have to BORROW someones *NICE* amp, and interconnects/cables... you just HAVE TO HEAR THIS! Friends or some HIGH END stereo shop within 100 miles should/would do this for you.
 
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