Home Theater Critique/Suggestions Wanted

J

jostenmeat

Audioholic Spartan
Room will be 30'x30' and 15' high.
Oh no.

A square room is the worst of all. Then your height is exactly half the other dimensions. Uh oh.

You can try to treat the living heck out of the room, but there's only so much you can do with a square room as far as acoustics.

View distance: 15' at a 36 degree view angle
Oh no.

Midpoint is the worst spot to be in a room. Problems on top of more problems.

Try the 33-38% recommendation I told you. Either front or rear wall, it doesn't matter.

Let's say roughly 11 ft from front wall to 1st row. Maintaining the distance you planned on between the two rows, means the back row is 18 ft front wall, or 12 feet from back wall.

If instead the distance was 38%, that would be front row at 11.4 ft from front wall, and back row at 11.6 from the back wall. That seems like a good starting point.

So, the THX rec for the front wall is now a 102" if 16:9. That is 22.8 degrees from rear row. I ended up with 42 deg for front row, and 36 for back row. You'll have to fire it up, and see for yourself.
 
D

DrFunk

Audioholic Intern
What would you propose for the overall dimensions of the room? Something more circular or more like an odd polygon?
 
AVRat

AVRat

Audioholic Ninja
Rectangular is better. Given the size your considering and seating, 12 x 20 x 30 would be nice. With this length, you could do a false wall with an acoutically transparent(AT) screen (Seymour AV 120" 2.35 - $1400) and speakers (JTR Triple 12HT) behind it. Viewing positions would be ~5' and 11' from the rear wall. 2 rows of 4/5 seating. Rear riser height about 15".
 
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lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
What would you propose for the overall dimensions of the room? Something more circular or more like an odd polygon?
A rectangle is much easier to deal with than any other shape. But a square is terrible. :eek:
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Rectangular is better. Given the size your considering and seating, 12 x 20 x 30 would be nice. With this length, you could do a false wall with an acoutically transparent(AT) screen (Seymour AV 120" 2.35 - $1400) and speakers (JTR Triple 12HT) behind it. Viewing positions would be ~5' and 11' from the rear wall. 2 rows of 4/5 seating. Rear riser height about 15".
I'd suggest a bit smaller. 12 x 18 x 24.

This gets you a screen size of around 130" which is reasonable.
 
D

DrFunk

Audioholic Intern
So with that, would the viewing distance be 14.5', according to the view calc? If I go with 18' for width of the room, I'll have to make my rows smaller. (Not a big deal) It just seems like that will be a very small room.
 
AVRat

AVRat

Audioholic Ninja
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J

jostenmeat

Audioholic Spartan
Yes, 14.5' is a decent viewing distance fo a 120" wide screen. That's about as large as I'd go with the JVC projectors.
DrFunk, AVRat knows what he wants, and obviously he's done a lot of research. I point this out, because you'll really have to decide for yourself. Is CIH an absolute definite at this point? If so, I'd bet good money you're going to want a larger viewing angle. As it is, even my rear row has a more immersive angle than the above, and I don't even have CIH.

Now, you might instead consider a different PJ technology to get the extra brightness you need.

My initial reaction to the differing room sizes would be to vote for the larger one. It will give you more flexibility in arranging things, and particularly speaker placement. Let alone viewer placement. (I moved my own rows quite a bit, before finalizing). Sure, the larger room will be tougher to pressurize, but I don't worry about that with the budget, and a smaller room requires more bass trapping too.

As aforementioned, there are compromises to deal with, but this is the screen I use in a multirow setup. If you can put the viewers in a 20 deg viewing cone, you can pretty much go as big as you want even with a JVC.

OTOH, going smaller would be an easier compromise to swallow if it was acoustically transparent, at least IMO.

Otherwise, you can save money by going with the brighter Epson/Panasonic 3LCD, or instead a DLP.
 
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