$100 subwoofers are not what you get for music reproduction, they simply don't have quality parts when the finished product sells for that amount. If you want something for music you'll really need to focus on subs costing no less than $400-$500. At that price point the manufacturers can afford to use components which are able to provide sufficient detail.
Spot on. Very True. Not easy to do well either.
It took me a few years experimenting with different sub drivers, cabinets, crossovers, all with higher quality parts to get the right blend with AMT Heils on the main speakers. After I got my set up more dialed in, helped a friend with a few concepts for his older ESS AMT1s, similar to the CE Concept with 10" woofer and 10" passive by ESS. He had the same issues with his older AMTs. No bass, lack of midrange, lacked fullness. Hard to believe is he runs his now with a simple 30w vintage receiver. In the old days, we use to run 200w-400w amps on the big AMTs to get the fullness they were lacking. In this case, part of the trick(s) is turning the 10" into more of a midwoofer, changes in the crossover, and allow it to work less on the low end, allow it to produce a little more midrange, and then figure out how to get the subwoofer to blend with the main speakers at the right point to prevent a bump or hump in bass. This is also alleviated by running two subs, not one, running both at a lower level for a better blend too. The AMTs are super fast, tricky. The factory woofers can be tubby, even when new surrounds are put on, but can still work. It can be done, but mods are required to the main speakers with the right cabinets and tuning on the subs. When I saw the original OP post, thought I might send him a message. It's easy to waste a lot of money and trying all the wrong things with low-end cheap subwoofers. If done correctly, you can get the subs to blend and work as if they were not even there, as if sound is coming out of the main speakers.
