I can not find much info on DIY Atmos speakers, so here is my take:
Sorry US guys, all measurements are in metric.
As i got a new amp with support for Atmos and DTS:X (Denon AVR-X6200W) i wanted Atmos speakers to upgrade from 7.1.
Being pretty low on cash after bying the amp i decided to use what i already had:
My "old" surrounds is 4x Overnight Sensation bipoles, therefore i already have 8 woofers (HiVi B4N) and 8 tweeters (HiVi T-20).
I wanted a lower profile than the original OS speakers and the bipoles, also i wanted all speakers to be wall and ceiling mounted, which ment the port had to be moved.
After some thinking and messing around with the calculator i ended up with a design which gave a total depth of 115mm and with a slot port opening at the baffle.
I have kept the original internal volume of just under 4,5l and added just a little bit to compensate for the port. The baffle size is almost the same, just 1,6mm lower and 12mm wider.
So i made a but-ugly prototype of my design, and also a original OS (only with slotted port) to compare the sound as i had no idea if this was going to work.
Crossover is the original Paul Carmody design for the HiVi tweeter (only difference from Dayton tweeter is a 15ohm resistance instead of the 10ohm in the L-pad)
I also used 1" polyfill covering the entire back except for the port opening.
This actually sounded a lot better then i would have expected, and i could not tell any difference in the sound from the two.
So i am going to build this, so here is my cut-list which should be enough to build them from aswell if anyone would be interested. This list is for 12mm stock (1/2") (i will use MDF but i suppose plywood will be better) The list is for 8 speakers and using a standard full panel 1220x2440mm or 8`x4`in the US.
I am not shure if a brace on the back panel would be needed, but i think i will ad one just in case.
Only info i can think of is missing from this drawing is the port lenght which shall be 152,4mm and a cutlist for the port pieces which will depend on what stock you are using. The ports sectional area and lenght is the same as the original.
The low profile of the speaker will require a bend in the port to get the correct lenght.
I will also use a roundover bit on all port parts that can interfere with the airflow.
I think thats it, give me a shout if somethings missing.
Hopefully i will start chopping wood this weekend.