go to ajdesigner.com and download a box calculator, you put the woofers parameters into the thing and calculate it, qtc is a self added parameter, the lower it is the longer the bass extension is but if you put it too low, it will ask you to build a box that isnt physically possible (like -8ft wide etc.) start with 1.0 and go up or down depending on preference and keep checking "Vb" to make sure you dont have a negative parameter. when you have what you want click on "box calculator" and it will tell you the best dimensions to build the cabinet for. mid-ranges and tweeters normally do not need to be calculated because they for one they are going into the same box as the woofer and two the box volume usually only affect the lower frequencies. next step would be crossovers. these are simple devices parts-express.com has pre-made the make sure the woofer gets the low end, and the tweeter gets the high end, you should check what the lowest freq. response is of your tweeter and cross it over a bit higher then that, 3,000hz is a good starting place though. you will need something to drill a hole into the cabinets obviously to the cut-out diameter of the drivers, then you will want to damp it is much as physically possible using poly-fill type material or yellow fiberglass (the pink doesnt work as good) you will need to get the correct type of speaker cables to hook the drivers up to the crossover and the wires will have to be soldered to the x-over. you will have to find some way to mount the x-over but that shouldnt be hard. if your designing a ported cabinet, which a ported one will give you an extra 10-50hz of response, you cannot just slap some random tube in the cabinet, they have to be a certain length to diameter ratio which is determined by the tuning freq. of both the box and driver. you will apparently have to put some binding posts into the cabinet and then connect those to the input of the x-over, that part shouldnt be too hard to figure out. building speakers for the most part are pretty simple but its always important you have the right cabinet dimensions for your driver and the right x-over points, like you wouldnt want to x-over a tweeter at 1000 hz, for one it wouldnt be able to reproduce it correctly, two you run the risk of destroying the tweeter. if you have a tweeter with a response down to 2,500 hz and a woofer with a response up to 5000hz, you would want to crossover at about 3khz. if you have a woofer with a response up to 1khz and a tweeter down to 2,500, you will either need a different driver or design a 3-way which requires 3 x-over points, and instead of a tweeter and woofer, and tweeter, midrange driver, and woofer. imo these sound far superior to 2-ways, but may be a bit more complicated to design.
and to j_garcia, apparently i was wrong and that only happened to me one time when running a particular drive through the calculator and i guess i based my idea on that. my apologies.
