get cable to router & cable box

[cmstric]

Hey guys,

Im building a new house and was planning on setting a modem from the cable company and wireless router behind my tv so i can run ethernet directly to my ps3. My question is do i need to install and extra cable outlet for the cable box or just put a splitter so one can go to the modem and the other to the cable box?

Thanks fellas!

Chad S.

 

[Alex2507]

How about something like this?

Give this a read:

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62690

 

[bandphan]

Since it is a new home run a couple of sets of cat5/6 to each room and display location and setup a gigabyte network, you will be much happier then wifi

 

[Nemo128]

bandphan is right, you've got a golden opportunity here. You should set up the cable inlet to go to a utility closet or something similar, distribute to your TV points from there, leave the modem in that closet, throw a nice wireless router in it like a Buffalo G300NH with custom antennas to cover your entire house, slap a Netgear JGS516 switch behind the Buffalo, and you've got wireless coverage galore with 16 Gb ports and jumbo frame support on your whole network.

 

[BMXTRIX]

If this is a new home then you should be doing this right which means that now is the time to do some SERIOUS research. Let the wife pick the paint and carpet color, focus on the guy stuff...

A/V cabling, network cabling, house distributed audio & video & control... CONDUIT.

Networking requires an active splitter, called a router, which is typically located at a central point in your home. It doesn't need to be in your office, but can be in a storage room in your basement... in fact, that's typically a pretty good location for it.

The cable connection for your modem comes to this location and the modem lives next to the router. Then the router connects to as many LAN ports as you have in your home.

For example, my home has one LAN port in each bedroom (5) plus one in the family room, study, and rec room. So, a total of 8 LAN ports in my home.

Cable comes from outside to my basement equipment location...
I split the cable out to my house (a bunch of cable jacks throughout the house)
and one of the feeds goes to the cable (actually FIOS) modem.
Then from the modem into a 8-port router.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833124022

There are modems available which have a built in router (nice) but tpically only have 4 ports.

If you don't have enough ports on the router, you can add a network 'switch' after the router...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833130048

That will give you up to 16 WIRED LAN connections throughout your home.

There's a bit of a learning curve to get it all figured out and you can pay someone to assist you or you can come back to sites like this one, or other more network specific sites to help you get things figured out.

There is a significant value to have an entire home properly wired for networking as well as audio and video. One of the nicest things you can do is add conduit from a basement equipment location to your attic so that wiring can be added later if you want to. I ran two pieces of 2" conduit from basement to attic for about $200 and have run a number of cables to my attic for audio, video, and antennas which I have in my attic. If I had to cut open walls to get the cabling run it would have cost hundreds in repairs.

Just some stuff to consider!

 

[highfigh]

Hey guys,

Im building a new house and was planning on setting a modem from the cable company and wireless router behind my tv so i can run ethernet directly to my ps3. My question is do i need to install and extra cable outlet for the cable box or just put a splitter so one can go to the modem and the other to the cable box?

Thanks fellas!

Chad S.

Remember- the modem wants to see the signal without going through the part of a splitter that causes any drop, when possible. If not, some cable companies will add an amplifier and reduce the signal to the modem before doing anything else to the signal. That way, they get fewer trouble calls.

As some have mentioned, run extra cables now, so you don't need to do it later. At the very least, run the cables and attach them to a stud where they would be used and then make a list with photos, drawings and dimensions, so you'll know exactly where they are if you need them. The easy way around this is to install a mud ring over the cables and put a blank wall plate on that. If you don't want to see blank plates, hide the wires but make sure you document EVERYTHING.

You can also drill a hole on the sole plate of the wall where the cables would go and staple a pull cord in the stud bay, letting it hang down into the basement with a label for which room and which wall. Then, you can use a wire hanger to poke up and into the stud bay, with someone else listening and feeling the wall for the correct spot.

I would definitely recommend using home runs to a centralized head end. That can save a tremendous amount of time, minimize frustration and problems. It also makes reconfiguring easier. One feed, one amp (if needed) and one splitter. Done. Terminate the phone/data in the same place. You don't need to use a structured wiring enclosure but it makes the job neater. Since just about everything will be networked soon, just go ahead and run Cat5e to all of the locations now. Switches are cheap and usually plug & play. If needed, you can even plug a WAP into one for better range. Since the modem doesn't need to be seen or accessed often, I would put in the basement with the rest of the hardware. Then, if you need to move equipment, all you would do is unplug one cable and plug a different one into the router or switch. No fishing wires, no doubts as to which cable does what because they were labeled in the beginning.

 

[krzywica]

Wow this guy just got hammered with info....considering he hasn't replied once yet....

To the OP listen to what everyone is telling you. I'm not sure if your a "do it right the first time" kinda guy but this is all good advice that you should heed.

 

[cmstric]

wow now thats a response guys! I appreciate all the info so ill look into it. Sounds like you guys know your stuff!

 

[tbergman]

I don't really have much to add, but if you have access to bare studs, now is the time to do things right, even if you don't have the spare cash to get all the components, run the wiring now, bulk cat5 and coax are cheap, taking the time to run wires in finished construction is not.

BMXTRIX, I really like your idea of running conduit up to the attic, solid planning.

 

[highfigh]

One thing about running metal conduit from an open basement to an open attic- some localities look at that as a break in fire stop, so a closed metal box may be required. It's not a big deal and they're not expensive. Some places, like Chicago, require metal junction boxes, not plastic. Don't fight it, just do what they want. Also, if a conduit is being run from basement to attic, use 2". You may not see a need for it, but you will.

 

[BMXTRIX]

You should not need to go with metal. Carlon has 2" resi-gard conduit CL2 (in wall) rated, and typically you just need to plug the ends of the conduit with fire-stop to pass inspection. Leave them a bit long, then cut off the ends with fire stop in them when you need to use them. They also have some sort of gap filler insulation they used in my home around pipes between floors which can be stuffed into the conduit. Pull it out to run your cables, then stick it back in to maintain fire code.

I would not use metal conduit in a home for low voltage work. Heck, not even necessary for high voltage work.

CONDUIT:
http://www.asihome.com/ASIshop/product_info.php?products_id=1290

This is what I used between my basement and attic and my home passed inspection after putting fire-sealant into the conduit.

If you have any displays which may need conduit runs as well, then 1.25" conduit is the smallest I would use...
http://www.asihome.com/ASIshop/product_info.php?products_id=1288

Quite honestly, for less than $1,000 in materials and IF you can do this yourself, you can save thousands of dollars later on. If you must pay them to run cabling in your home, then running ONE piece of conduit will allow you to install 10 wires later on if you need to and keep costs to a minimum.