Fios YouTube Problem

lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
It probably couldn't hurt to learn a little more about what happens upstream of the computer ... after I'm done with everything else. I'll probably call their tech people and shoot the breeze for an eon ... after I'm done with everything else.
Well at least if you go missing we'll know it was the Verizon guy. Can you here me now?
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Turns out the problem was stacked routers. My internet connection is VDSL (on a phone line). The coaxial going from the router is sending info out. After Verizon spent in incredible amount of effort trying to blame my computer, YouTube and my imagination they finally sent out a tech who threw his hands up in the air because he didn't know anything about VDSL. A second tech came out but he didn't know anything about VDSL either. A third tech was being sent out but tech #2 took the time to find out that there was a second router and assured me that the second router would look to the first router for an IP address which would cause everything to glitch.

Tech 2 was really up front and helpful but their phone customer service people and tech managers are total and complete douche bags.

So, somebody let Craig7 know that you can't have 2 let alone 3 stacked routers regardless of how cool it looks and expect good performance ... or at least that's what I now understand to be the case.

Why did I have 2 routers? Because their install monkey hooked it up like that. :rolleyes:

Problem solved ... knock wood.

Edit: From Sholling's post: Test Video (try 720P) ... No problemo.
 
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L

Lordhumungus

Audioholic
Turns out the problem was stacked routers. My internet connection is VDSL (on a phone line). The coaxial going from the router is sending info out. After Verizon spent in incredible amount of effort trying to blame my computer, YouTube and my imagination they finally sent out a tech who threw his hands up in the air because he didn't know anything about VDSL. A second tech came out but he didn't know anything about VDSL either. A third tech was being sent out but tech #2 took the time to find out that there was a second router and assured me that the second router would look to the first router for an IP address which would cause everything to glitch.

Tech 2 was really up front and helpful but their phone customer service people and tech managers are total and complete douche bags.

So, somebody let Craig7 know that you can't have 2 let alone 3 stacked routers regardless of how cool it looks and expect good performance ... or at least that's what I now understand to be the case.

Why did I have 2 routers? Because their install monkey hooked it up like that. :rolleyes:

Problem solved ... knock wood.
You can have two routers hooked up together as long as DHCP is turned off on one of them. Basically you want to set it to be a fancy switch and turn off all the routing functions (on the secondary router). If you have the models of your routers available, I might have some insight on the best way to set it up. Of course this is all assuming you have a need for the extra router hooked up in the first place.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
You can have two routers hooked up together as long as DHCP is turned off on one of them. Basically you want to set it to be a fancy switch and turn off all the routing functions (on the secondary router). If you have the models of your routers available, I might have some insight on the best way to set it up. Of course this is all assuming you have a need for the extra router hooked up in the first place.
I don't need the extra router but the discussion might teach me something the way dripping water will wear out a rock. The extra router which the tech said was a B&G dual band because it didn't have an 'N' rating stamped on it somewhere turns out to actually be an 'N' which he said would be quicker for wireless duty. I don't know but the router is a D-Link DIR-655. The Verizon router which he also said was a B&G is an FiOS Westell Gateway MDU vDSL2 Model 9100VM which it turns out the tech was wrong about too. He said it was an Actiontec when he read off the model to me. At least it appears that he did fix my initial problem.

If the D-Link will give me better wireless speeds then I guess I'm all for hooking it back up. Another thing that the tech said was that using WPA encryption is slower than WEP encryption and WEP is by and large secure enough.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Lordhumungus,

I really feel weird saying that to a man ... I presume. :D

You needn't worry about derailing this thread. It's my thread and it's the easiest way for me to keep track of problems/fixes/info ... but I'll take the help anyway I can get it. I appreciate the PM.

It turns out that my Asus X83VM-X1 does have wireless N technology according to the cNet specs linked but I don't see it in the manual (first time I ever really looked at it). :eek:

I haven't done all my homework on this quite yet. The tech also told me that I could Google how to establish WPA security for the Asus laptop. I remember reading something a long time ago about this router not being able to hook up multiple computers to a printer if that has any bearing on 'N' functions. I had a thread about helping me to choose this router and in it I believe I had a link explaining the differences between b/g/n. Yep, more homework.

Luckily for me I had the forethought to print out the Network Security Settings for the D-Link and put a copy under D and another copy was right in the Asus manual. I love it when I'm good to me like that. It shows me I care ... for me. :)

... as always, better questions to follow.

BTW, my download/upload speeds are ~ 20/5.
 
GO-NAD!

GO-NAD!

Audioholic Spartan
Turns out the problem was stacked routers. My internet connection is VDSL (on a phone line). The coaxial going from the router is sending info out. After Verizon spent in incredible amount of effort trying to blame my computer, YouTube and my imagination they finally sent out a tech who threw his hands up in the air because he didn't know anything about VDSL. A second tech came out but he didn't know anything about VDSL either. A third tech was being sent out but tech #2 took the time to find out that there was a second router and assured me that the second router would look to the first router for an IP address which would cause everything to glitch.

Tech 2 was really up front and helpful but their phone customer service people and tech managers are total and complete douche bags.

So, somebody let Craig7 know that you can't have 2 let alone 3 stacked routers regardless of how cool it looks and expect good performance ... or at least that's what I now understand to be the case.

Why did I have 2 routers? Because their install monkey hooked it up like that. :rolleyes:

Problem solved ... knock wood.

Edit: From Sholling's post: Test Video (try 720P) ... No problemo.
Hey, that's a cool video! Never heard of them before, but they sound great!
 
L

Lordhumungus

Audioholic
Lordhumungus,

I really feel weird saying that to a man ... I presume. :D

You needn't worry about derailing this thread. It's my thread and it's the easiest way for me to keep track of problems/fixes/info ... but I'll take the help anyway I can get it. I appreciate the PM.

It turns out that my Asus X83VM-X1 does have wireless N technology according to the cNet specs linked but I don't see it in the manual (first time I ever really looked at it). :eek:

I haven't done all my homework on this quite yet. The tech also told me that I could Google how to establish WPA security for the Asus laptop. I remember reading something a long time ago about this router not being able to hook up multiple computers to a printer if that has any bearing on 'N' functions. I had a thread about helping me to choose this router and in it I believe I had a link explaining the differences between b/g/n. Yep, more homework.

Luckily for me I had the forethought to print out the Network Security Settings for the D-Link and put a copy under D and another copy was right in the Asus manual. I love it when I'm good to me like that. It shows me I care ... for me. :)

... as always, better questions to follow.

BTW, my download/upload speeds are ~ 20/5.
Glad to help where I can. Trying to return the favor with stuff that I have actual experience with, especially since everyone here took the time to help me feel my way around the new HT setup.

And yes I am a dude as it were. The namesake is from the movie The Road Warrior, although it is also funny for the obvious alt pornstar name and for the fact that I am on the rotund side.

I'll leave you with the below image, which will either make you feel better or worse, depending on how the costume strikes you :D

 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Glad to help where I can. Trying to return the favor with stuff that I have actual experience with, especially since everyone here took the time to help me feel my way around the new HT setup.

And yes I am a dude as it were. The namesake is from the movie The Road Warrior, although it is also funny for the obvious alt pornstar name and for the fact that I am on the rotund side.

I'll leave you with the below image, which will either make you feel better or worse, depending on how the costume strikes you :D
You are gonna fit in real well around here. I will say that

Glad you solved the problem. The main rule with technology is keep it simple. Complex setups are just asking for trouble. A single router should do the job. I just hope they hooked up the good router. FYI routers can go bad too.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
You can have two routers hooked up together as long as DHCP is turned off on one of them. Basically you want to set it to be a fancy switch and turn off all the routing functions (on the secondary router). If you have the models of your routers available, I might have some insight on the best way to set it up. Of course this is all assuming you have a need for the extra router hooked up in the first place.
The instructions you linked on bridging the Westell also talk about disabling the DHCP server on both the Ethernet Switch and the WLAN. Only problem is that I don't know how to do that.

There are actually two sets of instructions in two posts. The first set leaves you with "a *huge* security risk" and the second set doesn't really spell out the steps to take to get to do what he's talking about. I was able to get into the Westell router which is good but navigating my way through there isn't that easy.

I think I want to let the Westell be a hub for the ethernet connections to my desktop, Blu-ray player and D-Link router. I think I want the D-Link router to handle the wireless connection to my laptop. From the link my sidebar menu doesn't show 'routing' as an option so there are some differences.

Maybe using the 'N' capabilities of the D-Link router are beyond my capabilities and maybe it just wouldn't work the way I want anyway if I have to hook everything up to it and everything I have hooked up isn't 'N' capable but I ought to be able to use the WPA security so that is at the very least something I want to do.

Help?

EDIT:

I called tech support and got WPA/2 security enabled. I was informed that they don't support bridging but if I were to do that I needed to keep in mind not to disable my MoCa connection as that is needed by my cable boxes.
 
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Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
As a sort of update to what I'm finding I'll post this cut and paste thing to show that the linked instructions from LH are for a different version that doesn't get used for a MoCA connection that relies on DHCP for an IP Address Source.


Firmware Version: 1.03.05.04
Model Name: A90-9100VM15-10
Hardware Version: B

I don't know if it matters but I set my 9100VM to be just a g router as opposed to b and g. I'm starting to get the idea that I can forget the D-Link DIR-655 n router being used with a Westell 9100VM.

Verizon says that Westell's position is that they don't support bridging and they won't train Verizon personnel to do it but if you want to do it you can go to the manufacturer of the router you want to bridge to on help to get it done ... basically a PFO policy.
 
L

Lordhumungus

Audioholic
Alex,

First I want to apologize for sort of abandoning you mid thread. I posted those links more as general ideas/guidelines for what you are trying to do as opposed to exact instructions. Because I don't own the hardware in question, it's fairly difficult to give exact instructions that don't at least require some guesswork and problem solving as problems arise. That said, I am going to do some research and try to come back to this thread with some more concrete instructions for your specific situation. I can't guarantee that I can do it since I am basically going to have to do this all through pictures and manuals I can find online, but I will give it my best effort and come back to this thread ASAP with something.

One of the little bits of fun that is going to complicate things is that you use FiOS for more than just internet service. For some reason I was under the incorrect impression that it was only your ISP, so I'll be keeping that in mind. The original suggestion I made would have caused issues with this setup anyway, so it's probably good that it didn't work out.

As for Verizon not supporting bridging, that's a standard ISP response for this sort of thing since they 1. Don't want to spend the time or money to assist you with the multitude of setup and connection options different manufacturers have and 2. Be responsible if things don't work. In some sense they are a very standard utility provider. They just get the internet pipe to your house, once it's there, it is your problem.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
LH,

All's well. I'm a slow learner and I needed the time to explore the router's menu's. I didn't see a way to disable DHCP for everything but my MoCA connection. My IP address distribution can be DHCP Server, Disabled or DHCP Relay. It is currently DHCP Server. The WAN VDSL is currently disabled.

One of the things that sunk in from this exchange is that my bottle neck is my 15/5 Mbps internet connection which is exceeded by the g capabilities of the Westell 9100VM router from Verizon. I'm pretty happy with the system as is. I mean about a week ago I was ready to throw my desktop out. It got saved by a reformatting and I could barely get through a video without glitches which got solved by not stacking the routers.

So the question is would I benefit at all from using an N capable router as you pointed out earlier. I'm still not clear on that. I don't know if it would allow me to do file sharing or something but then I don't know how I would benefit from something like that anyway. Still the discussion is of benefit to me so any tips, pointers or helpful links are appreciated. The last link you provided and some of my own snooping around got me into the router which for me is huge. :)
 
L

Lordhumungus

Audioholic
Gentlemen, helmets on. INCOMING TEXT WALL!

To answer your question about whether this is a worthy adventure, the speed benefit of an N router should technically not be a factor when interfacing with the internet, but the D-link should provide some range increase as well as offloading some of the crappier parts of the Westell (in theory at least). Overall, I'd probably do it if I was in a similar situation.

What I was originally trying to have you do is turn the FiOS router/modem/access point into ONLY a modem and then setup the D-Link router to be the router. The benefit to this is that because the Westell does a little bit of everything, it has a tendency to not do anything particularly well, so we were going to ask it to do only the most basic task (connecting you to the internet). This was supported by several posts that I read about the Westell having stack overflow problems (essentially, it would run out of memory) under some fairly normal operating circumstances. The negative here is that if you have FiOS TV service, you lose access to Video on Demand and the Program Guide.

So, we now have two options that will allow you to use both routers without crippling your set top boxes. One is to do a modified version of the first idea that requires a lot more time and effort to get working correctly (including having Verizon change how their Optical Network Terminal communicates to your modem). Or we can use a simplified approach that should give you most of the benefits without the hassle. I propose the latter and am posting the following instructions with that in mind.

Step 1 - Disable the wireless function on the Westell
1. Login to the Westell Modem/Gateway/Router
2. On the menu running across the top of the page click on the Wireless icon
3. On the menu on the left side of the page click on the Basic Security Settings link
4. Look at the top of the page under where it says "1. Turn Wireless On"
5. Tick the "Off" Radial
6. Scroll down the bottom of the page and click the "Apply" button
7. At this point the Westell may reboot itself or go through some manor of updating. If it does, wait until it is finished and then select Logout on the left menu. If not, do the same without waiting :)

Step 2 - Turn the D-Link router into a wireless Access Point
1. Directly connect the D-link router to the ethernet port on any computer via one of the 4 LAN ports on the router
2. Login to the D-link router by typing 192.168.0.1 into a web browser
3. Select Admin from the drop down menu and leave the password field blank (unless the password has been changed).
4. Select "Internet" from the menu on the left
5. Select "Manual Internet Connection Setup"
6. Under "Internet Connection Type" select "Static IP" for "My Internet Connection is..."
7. Under the heading Static IP Address Internet Connection Type enter the following information:
IP Address: 192.200.200.250
Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway: 192.200.200.1
Primary DNS: 192.200.200.1
Secondary DNS: 0.0.0.0
Note: This is all bogus information meant to give the router something for the WAN port that will A. Shut it up and B. Not interfere with anything else​
8. Select the "Save Settings" button at the top of the page (I believe you will be logged out, so after it finishes repeat steps 2 and 3 to log back in)
9. Select "NETWORK SETTINGS" from the menu on the left
10. Deselect the "Enable DHCP Server" check box
11. Under the heading Router Settings enter the following information:
Router IP Address: 192.168.1.200
Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0
Device Name: *Call it whatever you want*​
12. Select the "Save Settings" button at the top of the page and log back in as in step 8
13. We are now going to look for the "Wireless Settings" menu (I believe it will be on the left hand side somewhere, but I'm not sure, fumble around until you find it, it should be relatively easy to find)
14. Once you find the menu enter the following information:
Enable Wireless: Radial checked and set to always
Wireless Network name: This is your identfier, call it whatever you want (would avoid things like your name, address etc as this is potentially visible to the world)
802.11 Mode: Mixed 802.11n and 802.11g
Enable Auto Channel Scan: Selected
Transmission Rate: Best (automatic)
Channel Width: Auto 20/40
Visibility Status: Visible if you want people to be able to freely see your network (this is best if you have people over frequently, or have trouble
remembering your SSID name, but a slight security risk as anyone can see the router is present.) Invisible if you want to be slightly more secure.
Security Mode: Take what you learned about setting up WPA/2 and apply it here (should be the exact same concept)​
15. Select the "Save Settings" button at the top of the page and praise the gods that you are done fiddling with this stupid device :)

Step 3 - The Moment of Truth
1. Take the D-link router and plug it directly into any of the LAN ports on the Westell. It is imperative that the ethernet cable goes from a LAN port on the Westell to a LAN port on the D-link. NOT, I REPEAT NOT, to or from the WAN (Internet) port of either device.
2. Connect any wireless devices to the newly created wireless network
3. Enjoy your internets!

Note on security: If you have any real desire to have your wireless network be secure, definitely change the default username/password for your devices. I personally have all default IP addresses and login credentials memorized for pretty much every major brand of router, as would most anyone who wants to get in. Make sure to set it to something YOU will remember though, so you don't have to do a hard reset and lose all your configuration data.

Note on me: I am a human being and more than capable of making mistakes, omissions, or just plain not knowing the answer to everything. If you have any problems with these instructions, let me know and we'll work it out.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Good thing I was wearing my helmet!:D
I'm over here nervous as a long tail cat in a room full of rocking chairs and you're making jokes. Your sense of boundaries really leaves something to be desired. :rolleyes: :p :D


LH,

I'm going to print that post out and do the deal probably tomorrow when I'm fresh as a daisy.

It is imperative that the ethernet cable goes from a LAN port on the Westell to a LAN port on the D-link. NOT, I REPEAT NOT, to or from the WAN (Internet) port of either device.
I got the point about not using the WAN (Internet) connection on either device. Just a note for my personal benefit that it's referred to as WAN on the Westell and Internet on the D-Link ... both of which you have clearly stated to avoid.

Directly connect the D-link router to the ethernet port on any computer via one of the 4 LAN ports on the router
After I connect the D-Link to a computer and to the Westell I will have 2 LAN ports left to use. It sounds strange to use the LAN port on the D-Link as an input from the Westell so I'm repeating that part but the instructions are clear and understood. My desktop will stay directly connected to the D-Link via that LAN port. I just want to make sure that the LAN ports on the D-Link will still function normally even though one of the LAN ports is an input from the Westell. Please forgive any vocabulary flubs. Thanks for that detailed how-to.

Wish me luck. :)
 
L

Lordhumungus

Audioholic
I got the point about not using the WAN (Internet) connection on either device. Just a note for my personal benefit that it's referred to as WAN on the Westell and Internet on the D-Link ... both of which you have clearly stated to avoid.
WAN = Wide Area Network. When you connect to an ISP you are essentially joining their giant network which gives you internet access. That's why the two terms are used interchangeably.

After I connect the D-Link to a computer and to the Westell I will have 2 LAN ports left to use. It sounds strange to use the LAN port on the D-Link as an input from the Westell so I'm repeating that part but the instructions are clear and understood. My desktop will stay directly connected to the D-Link via that LAN port. I just want to make sure that the LAN ports on the D-Link will still function normally even though one of the LAN ports is an input from the Westell. Please forgive any vocabulary flubs. Thanks for that detailed how-to.

Wish me luck. :)
The LAN ports on the D-link should still function correctly. You should also be able to use the remaining LAN ports on the Westell if you need to. Essentially what you are doing is turning the D-link into a wireless switch, or in even simpler terms, you are basically adding ports both physical and wireless to be able to attach new devices.

If you have any issues with this process, you can always revert the Westell back to wireless on, which should put you back to how it's functioning now. If it's easier, you can do Step 2 first so you can have the internet connection working on a laptop or something to read my post.

Good luck and let me know if you are unclear about anything or have any questions/issues.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
If you have any issues with this process, you can always revert the Westell back to wireless on, which should put you back to how it's functioning now. If it's easier, you can do Step 2 first so you can have the internet connection working on a laptop or something to read my post.
I did Step 2 first with my laptop and got stuck at #12. The D-Link page was telling me that if I changed the IP address of the router I would have to change the IP address in the browser in order to access the router ... or something like that. This time it did not take me back to the log in page as it had done in #8. Entering 192.168.0.1 didn't work so I tried entering the new Router IP Address of 192.168.1.200 into the browser but that didn't work so I'm stuck at #12 and not able to log back in.

I haven't touched Step 1 yet.

The LAN ports on the D-link should still function correctly. You should also be able to use the remaining LAN ports on the Westell if you need to.
Does it make a difference which one I use? I gather that using the D-Link is better from something you said earlier. Anyway I'm waiting and wondering if resetting the D-Link is my next step but I feel like waiting for instruction is my best bet.
 

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