DIY Subwoofer advice

[72DartSwinger]

Hey everyone, new to the forum here, have been reading a lot in the forum the past few days, a lot of interesting stuff here, too. Anyway.. I recently bought a new home theater receiver to replace my RCA RT2500 that finally went out on me. I am not anal about what a system sounds like, as long as it sound pretty decent. For what it was, the rca 5.1 was a good system. I never had problems connecting any DVRs, DVD players, etc to it. Decent bass output, and was much better than mono or even stereo CRTS, or heck, even my 42" Panasonic plasma. It finally started doing the buzzing thing, and now its just toast. Soo.. I replaced it with an Onkyo TX SR606 receiver. Now I face another problem, which is what I am coming here for advice on. I need a new subwoofer, because the Onkyo requires a powered sub, while the rca did not, thus, I have no sub for my HT right now. I know Dayton Audio makes a decent Sub, especially if you DIY with the RSS drivers. My question is if I wanted something a little better then the 200w RCA sub, should I try to DIY with a Dayton, or just buy something else - perhaps less pricey? I do plan to build 6 mini monitors and a decent center channel at some point in the future, but for now, I need a sub.

Also.. I noticed that the Dayton RSS drivers show a Freq range of around 27hz - on up to wherever they go... Is that satisfactory for the cost? I've seen a lot of people complain because the sub didn't put out at 20hz or lower. Wouldn't that actually be below our hearing range?

ALSO.. correct me if I'm wrong, but with the plate amps, the internal crossovers are adjustable from around 30HZ on some models, but usually from 40hz on up to about 180Hz... is that the upper limit, or the lower limit for where the sub will basically stop making sounds?

I was under the impression that if I went with the Dayton RSS, I'd have to either build the crossover, or have one made, but it would be much easier if the one in the plate amps would be sufficient. Thanks for checking out this thread, started by a noob.

 

[TLS Guy]

Hey everyone, new to the forum here, have been reading a lot in the forum the past few days, a lot of interesting stuff here, too. Anyway.. I recently bought a new home theater receiver to replace my RCA RT2500 that finally went out on me. I am not anal about what a system sounds like, as long as it sound pretty decent. For what it was, the rca 5.1 was a good system. I never had problems connecting any DVRs, DVD players, etc to it. Decent bass output, and was much better than mono or even stereo CRTS, or heck, even my 42" Panasonic plasma. It finally started doing the buzzing thing, and now its just toast. Soo.. I replaced it with an Onkyo TX SR606 receiver. Now I face another problem, which is what I am coming here for advice on. I need a new subwoofer, because the Onkyo requires a powered sub, while the rca did not, thus, I have no sub for my HT right now. I know Dayton Audio makes a decent Sub, especially if you DIY with the RSS drivers. My question is if I wanted something a little better then the 200w RCA sub, should I try to DIY with a Dayton, or just buy something else - perhaps less pricey? I do plan to build 6 mini monitors and a decent center channel at some point in the future, but for now, I need a sub.

Also.. I noticed that the Dayton RSS drivers show a Freq range of around 27hz - on up to wherever they go... Is that satisfactory for the cost? I've seen a lot of people complain because the sub didn't put out at 20hz or lower. Wouldn't that actually be below our hearing range?

ALSO.. correct me if I'm wrong, but with the plate amps, the internal crossovers are adjustable from around 30HZ on some models, but usually from 40hz on up to about 180Hz... is that the upper limit, or the lower limit for where the sub will basically stop making sounds?

I was under the impression that if I went with the Dayton RSS, I'd have to either build the crossover, or have one made, but it would be much easier if the one in the plate amps would be sufficient. Thanks for checking out this thread, started by a noob.

You don't need to build a crossover. You don't have to use the crossover in the plate amp, it is best to use the one in your receiver.

The Dayton has a reputation for being on the tubby side. There are a lot of DIY sub builds on this site that would be a lot better.

Here is a good thread. Search the DIY forum thoroughly and feel free to ask more questions about a sub build.

 

[lsiberian]

Hey everyone, new to the forum here, have been reading a lot in the forum the past few days, a lot of interesting stuff here, too. Anyway.. I recently bought a new home theater receiver to replace my RCA RT2500 that finally went out on me. I am not anal about what a system sounds like, as long as it sound pretty decent. For what it was, the rca 5.1 was a good system. I never had problems connecting any DVRs, DVD players, etc to it. Decent bass output, and was much better than mono or even stereo CRTS, or heck, even my 42" Panasonic plasma. It finally started doing the buzzing thing, and now its just toast. Soo.. I replaced it with an Onkyo TX SR606 receiver. Now I face another problem, which is what I am coming here for advice on. I need a new subwoofer, because the Onkyo requires a powered sub, while the rca did not, thus, I have no sub for my HT right now. I know Dayton Audio makes a decent Sub, especially if you DIY with the RSS drivers. My question is if I wanted something a little better then the 200w RCA sub, should I try to DIY with a Dayton, or just buy something else - perhaps less pricey? I do plan to build 6 mini monitors and a decent center channel at some point in the future, but for now, I need a sub.

Also.. I noticed that the Dayton RSS drivers show a Freq range of around 27hz - on up to wherever they go... Is that satisfactory for the cost? I've seen a lot of people complain because the sub didn't put out at 20hz or lower. Wouldn't that actually be below our hearing range?

ALSO.. correct me if I'm wrong, but with the plate amps, the internal crossovers are adjustable from around 30HZ on some models, but usually from 40hz on up to about 180Hz... is that the upper limit, or the lower limit for where the sub will basically stop making sounds?

I was under the impression that if I went with the Dayton RSS, I'd have to either build the crossover, or have one made, but it would be much easier if the one in the plate amps would be sufficient. Thanks for checking out this thread, started by a noob.

Build the Infinity kappa midvq listed at the top of this site. It's proven and amazing. Even if it takes you a year to get it done. It's worth the wait.

Recommended parts list
Driver- Infinity Kappa Perfect 12 MidVQ(single voice coil) (140 - 200 depending on your source)
Amp- Behringer EP2500(260 -300)
EQ and highpass filter- Behringer DCX2496 (300)
Cabinet grade birch ply (20-40 depending on your area prices)
Rockwool(10)
Screws, gasket sealer tape, etc(around 30)

There are certainly cheaper part you can use if money is tight.

Poor man's compromis parts list
Driver- Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1(50- 100)
300 watt Bash amp 100-150
MDF(20)
Rockwool(10)
Etc(30)

Sometimes a mixture of the 2 works. I do sugget as much of the top as possible

If you use the EP2500 amp you can use the elemental designs high pass filter(100)

 

[marcgunit11]

Amps Vs Drivers

Hi everyone, I'm in a similar situation as the original poster. I'll be using it primarily for mixing music in a DIY studio, but also, I will often use it for home theatre purposes.

My budget leads me more towards the poor man's build. However, I can either get the more expensive driver and the less expensive amplifier, or I can get the less expensive driver and the more expensive amplifier. First, would mixing the components in this manner be an acceptable compromise? If so, which combination will be the better one?

 

[lsiberian]

My budget leads me more towards the poor man's build. However, I can either get the more expensive driver and the less expensive amplifier, or I can get the less expensive driver and the more expensive amplifier. First, would mixing the components in this manner be an acceptable compromise? If so, which combination will be the better one?

Go for the better driver IMO. Upgrading amps is very easy to do down the line. You'll need to install the amp behind the port. So add the depth of the amp to the top, left, right and bottom panels.

I do prefer the birch ply for it's lighter weight. You'll be glad you went this way if you ever move.

 

[TLS Guy]

Go for the better driver IMO. Upgrading amps is very easy to do down the line. You'll need to install the amp behind the port. So add the depth of the amp to the top, left, right and bottom panels.

I do prefer the birch ply for it's lighter weight. You'll be glad you went this way if you ever move.

The answer is easy, better driver cheaper amp.

 

[72DartSwinger]

Honestly, I don't ever see myself needing 2k+ watts of amplification - not even on the whole home theater system, so I think the Behringer amp would be overkill. You can probably sell me on the Kappa drivers though. What I'll probably do for now is just buy a decent amp, such as the 300w Bash amp, and use some of my cheap 1/2" MDF to build a box for it, and run it to my current bandpass 200w sub, and then when I get some stuff paid for, I'll grab up a Kappa driver and build a proper enclosure for it, such as the one in the thread linked to above. that way I'll still have a sub, but can still plan out buying the Kappa system above. There's no way I'm going to watch a movie without a sub hooked up.

 

[TLS Guy]

Honestly, I don't ever see myself needing 2k+ watts of amplification - not even on the whole home theater system, so I think the Behringer amp would be overkill. You can probably sell me on the Kappa drivers though. What I'll probably do for now is just buy a decent amp, such as the 300w Bash amp, and use some of my cheap 1/2" MDF to build a box for it, and run it to my current bandpass 200w sub, and then when I get some stuff paid for, I'll grab up a Kappa driver and build a proper enclosure for it, such as the one in the thread linked to above. that way I'll still have a sub, but can still plan out buying the Kappa system above. There's no way I'm going to watch a movie without a sub hooked up.

1/2" MDF will be a complete waste of time to build with.

 

[72DartSwinger]

Why does a plate amp need a 3/4 MDF box? I'm not building a box for the sub, just for the amp. I guess I could go really ghetto and just screw it to the back of the existing sub cabinet, but wouldn't that be tacky? I think a quick box for the plate amp would be just fine.

 

[TLS Guy]

Why does a plate amp need a 3/4 MDF box? I'm not building a box for the sub, just for the amp. I guess I could go really ghetto and just screw it to the back of the existing sub cabinet, but wouldn't that be tacky? I think a quick box for the plate amp would be just fine.

Sorry, I thought you were going to build the sub with it.

 

[lsiberian]

Why does a plate amp need a 3/4 MDF box? I'm not building a box for the sub, just for the amp. I guess I could go really ghetto and just screw it to the back of the existing sub cabinet, but wouldn't that be tacky? I think a quick box for the plate amp would be just fine.

Build the sub with cabinet quality birch ply. make sure to leave no stone unturned in making it a sturdy beautiful piece of work.

Remember to have lots of fun. If it becomes a chore you may consider a new hobby and the svssounds subs. This madness isn't for everyone.

As always remember to wear gloves? A no brainer yes, but my fingers have bore the stupidity of forgetting on a few ocassions. Nothing like blood colored speakers.

 

[72DartSwinger]

Building the cabinet won't be a problem. I could even make my own design, but the problem there would be suiting the cabinet to fit the driver, so I'd rather use a proven design for the cabinet.

And.. if I didn't enjoy doing this sort of thing, I'd probably just buy, as that would be the easiest way to go, and I'm sure I'd be satisfied with most subs that weren't econo-priced like the HTIB setups.