Diy active sub kit or building from plans?

TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
It really helps to have the proper information.

I have worked on this all morning.

You are right about Australian prices, and I have worked hard to get costs down, but prices are more then double USA.

First of all it was a real challenge to get the spec. of your sub out on the Bluesound unit. It turns out the unit does have fixed bass management. When you activate your have a sub, and connect to the sound out, the main speakers are limited to 80 Hz at the low end, and the sub carries over below 80 Hz. I assume this is 12 db. high pass and 24 db. low pass, but I can't find a spec on that.

The driver is this 10" Dayton sub driver. I use this driver in my in wall system and it is an excellent driver.

I did model the cheaper Dayton 10" driver, but the box volume came out to almost 4 cu.ft. If you go on the sites it says you can use a vented volume of 1.75 cu.ft. That is pure fiction. F3 is much higher then quoted and the response curve is awful.

I have specked two choice of plate amps. This 100 watt amp. I have also specked this 250 watt amp.

If you have the funds I would go for the more powerful amp, as your circumstances may change. The 100 watt amp would probably meet current requirements, but the larger one will power the driver almost to the limit of its capabilities. I am powering my driver with 250 watts.

Now you need to add the volume of the driver, port volume and bracing volume to the final volume. This pretty much turns out to be in the 15 to 20 percent range.

This will make an ideal sub for your system. I'm sorry about the sticker shock, but I can't control Australian prices without designing junk, which I won't do. Junk purchases are the most expensive you ever make.

I feel 100% confident in this design and would expect you to be very happy with it. It should match your system perfectly.

As an aside I think we need an addendum to this site, to state people's country of residence. In addition we need guidelines as to what information to provide when requesting help.

You are far from the first to post with totally inadequate details. This wastes a lot of time.
 

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Vil

Audioholic Intern
Thanks, appreciate it. I have cut the pipe with one elbow fitting to 21” in preparation for flared ends as you suggested earlier. Not a biggie, I can shorten it for flush ends if that’s what you recommend.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Thanks, appreciate it. I have cut the pipe with one elbow fitting to 21” in preparation for flared ends as you suggested earlier. Not a biggie, I can shorten it for flush ends if that’s what you recommend.
With that size of port flush ending will be fine. Flaring will just make the port longer.
 
V

Vil

Audioholic Intern
Here’s my progression. Pipe in place, waiting for pvc cement to cure. Then I’ll remove it and use my mixture of epoxy resin with MDF saw dust I collected from routing.
Thanks again for help and tips.
 

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Vil

Audioholic Intern
Today, did some more work on a subwoofer. Rounded off the edges with router, filled up some small imperfections and did a lot of sanding. At the moment, it has a second undercoat waiting to dry. Then light sand again and then I’m planning satin black enamel on top. Holes for the subwoofer have captive nuts from inside so I can use proper screws.
 

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Vil

Audioholic Intern
Nearly finished. It has two coats of satin enamel and I have screwed in shallow rubber feet. Woofer is bolted with M4 high tensile bolts with a dab of blue locktite. All I need to do, inserting polyfill stuffing, connecting and fitting the amp. After this start playing with settings to suit my ear.
 

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lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Nearly finished. It has two coats of satin enamel and I have screwed in shallow rubber feet. Woofer is bolted with M4 high tensile bolts with a dab of blue locktite. All I need to do, inserting polyfill stuffing, connecting and fitting the amp. After this start playing with settings to suit my ear.
While pleasing one's ear is a thing, better to set the sub up with a bit more science than that IMO.
 
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Vil

Audioholic Intern
While pleasing one's ear is a thing, better to set the sub up with a bit more science than that IMO.
As you know I’m still learning so I’m open to any suggestions. This might be silly question but is there a recommended starting point?…when it comes to frequecies set up. Do I need special tools?
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
As you know I’m still learning so I’m open to any suggestions. This might be silly question but is there a recommended starting point?…when it comes to frequecies set up. Do I need special tools?
A measurement mic (like miniDSP's Umik-1 or -2, or Dayton's UMM-6), and appropriate software (like REW-Room EQ Wizard) is a better way to go than "by ear".....
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Nearly finished. It has two coats of satin enamel and I have screwed in shallow rubber feet. Woofer is bolted with M4 high tensile bolts with a dab of blue locktite. All I need to do, inserting polyfill stuffing, connecting and fitting the amp. After this start playing with settings to suit my ear.
You are making a magnificent job of that Sub. Well done!
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
As you know I’m still learning so I’m open to any suggestions. This might be silly question but is there a recommended starting point?…when it comes to frequecies set up. Do I need special tools?
You have a nice simple system. You have an 80 Hz crossover, which should be fine for your speakers. If you have a good ear, you can just set the level of the sub to what sounds right. You can tinker with the phase control, to get maximum output in the room. That design should have a pretty tight bass, and not exaggerate room modes. Commercial subs tend to play the my F3, is lower than yours game, and end up with a more resonant design than desirable.

If I have not blown it, I think you will be pleased once you set levels to give a pleasing balance.

Getting accurate room measurements, and knowing what they mean takes experience and equipment, that is not inexpensive. In addition if you don't know what you are doing, it can all get you precisely wrong.

If that sub works the way I hope and expect it will, I think you will find it is just what your system needed. Let us know when you have had a chance to experiment with it.

From your pictures no one would know that is a DIY sub.
 
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Vil

Audioholic Intern
Thanks TLS and lovinthehd, I might get some of this measuring stuff later on at some point but as you say, I wouldn’t know what I’m doing at least for now. So, plan is set it up using my ears.
All finished now, time to face the music
 
V

Vil

Audioholic Intern
Love it. I played with settings and this is what I ended up. Those deep tones are very fine. I had to crank up the gain to make it more noticable. In low decibel levels, I can’t tell much difference between having it on or off but as soon as I crank up the volume slightly, the sub comes alive. Drums are nice and tight. I’m still in the process of experimenting. This is my little set up, also pic of the bluesound powernode screen and the back of the sub setting. Really enjoyed listening Sade “No ordinary love”, where that base guitar is just awesome. I think I hear a lot more than before.
Thank you TLS very much for doing this for me…if there’s any more suggestions I could try, please let me know.
 

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TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Love it. I played with settings and this is what I ended up. Those deep tones are very fine. I had to crank up the gain to make it more noticable. In low decibel levels, I can’t tell much difference between having it on or off but as soon as I crank up the volume slightly, the sub comes alive. Drums are nice and tight. I’m still in the process of experimenting. This is my little set up, also pic of the bluesound powernode screen and the back of the sub setting. Really enjoyed listening Sade “No ordinary love”, where that base guitar is just awesome. I think I hear a lot more than before.
Thank you TLS very much for doing this for me…if there’s any more suggestions I could try, please let me know.
Congratulations. You made a really good job of that sub. It looks really professional. Going from being a complete novice who knew nothing about the physics of sound reproduction and getting a result like that from your first project is astounding.

I think that one of the reasons is that you asked sensible pertinent questions and then above all, believed the answers.

I am just relived that it is full filling expectations. I have to say when people are going to that trouble and expense on my advice, I'm very relieved when the project ends with a satisfied member.

The only advice I have is for you to now enjoy the music. You will find the optimal integrations of that sub, I'm certain. I do hope you will continue to participate in these forums.

I do have one question for you. The SVS PB 1000 10'" ported sub can be had for $899.00 in Australia. That would be the closest equivalent to your sub. So how much did you save by going DIY?
 
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TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Pretty close to even if that’s comparable unit.
I think it is, but yours looks better. The problem is that Dayton driver is a crazy price in Australia. It is only $189.98 in the US, so well under half the Australian price. So I bet it was even by the time your bought materials.
 
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Vil

Audioholic Intern
Ha ha, thanks for a nice compliment. Seriously, I just love projects. For me, it’s still a win situation regardless ;-)
Yea, the driver and the amp cost me just a tad over $800 AUD with the postage. Box practically cost me peanuts. Some materials I already had including paint.
 
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TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Ha ha, thanks for a nice compliment. Seriously, I just love projects. For me, it’s still a win situation regardless ;-)
Yea, the driver and the amp cost me just a tad over $800 AUD with the postage. Box practically cost me peanuts. Some materials I already had including paint.
That is the correct way to look at it. And actually you very likely have the better sub, as your comments on that guitar is the sort of sound I design for. When I hear commercial subs I'm generally impressed in a negative direction. They seem to love the bass that oozes out like molasses, which I can't abide.

I always say the whole point of DIY is NOT cheaper speakers, but BETTER speakers.

Let me just say that it has been a pleasure and a privilege to assist you with this project.

Enjoy this sub, and I have a feeling this will not be your last build.
 
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