sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
one of the reasons I'm taking my sweet time building my kappas is setting up the DCX looks very complicated.. I'm not real adept at playing with software and figuring it out i will most likely try to just do it at the unit itself
Those were my exact thoughts until I PM'd some of the members here and everyone of them directed me towards the DCX 2496 and the tutorial the Haoleb provided is spot on to get you up and running, I found plate amps that would do the job and so on and so on but the DCX is not so bad at all, check out the link and give it a try, I have a brand new DCX I might be willing to part with, at a discounted price, brand new,;).
 
chris357

chris357

Senior Audioholic
Those were my exact thoughts until I PM'd some of the members here and everyone of them directed me towards the DCX 2496 and the tutorial the Haoleb provided is spot on to get you up and running, I found plate amps that would do the job and so on and so on but the DCX is not so bad at all, check out the link and give it a try, I have a brand new DCX I might be willing to part with, at a discounted price, brand new,;).
thank you sounds like a good deal but I already bought one from someone on here.. a few months ago.. it just intimidates the heck out of me

same thing with the jumpers on the ep2500 and the fan mod
 
sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
I know I can truly relate to what you are saying but patience is the virtue here just take your time and keep reading, it starts to become more clear, as if thats even possible.:rolleyes:
 
chris357

chris357

Senior Audioholic
i'm hoping, I'm also still pondering using screws or just glueing.. i've been reading and my head is about to explode.. screws just make the whole thing so much easier ...
 
sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
i'm hoping, I'm also still pondering using screws or just glueing.. i've been reading and my head is about to explode.. screws just make the whole thing so much easier ...
Well for one thing you should still use the glue and a minimal amount of well placed screws until the glue dries, just counter sink the screws a little bit so as to fill with a quality wood filler and or bondo auto body filler.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
i'm hoping, I'm also still pondering using screws or just glueing.. i've been reading and my head is about to explode.. screws just make the whole thing so much easier ...
I wouldn't say it makes it easier. Especially if you have router plans for the edges. Some good corner clamps paired with other clamps and titebond will do just fine.
 
GO-NAD!

GO-NAD!

Audioholic Spartan
Hey! You guys are getting off topic! The woodwork is the easy part, as far as I'm concerned. I just need to know which software I need to download from the Behringer website! :confused:

Plus, should I just get the basic setup sorted out before even thinking about REW, because that looks like it's gonna give me a massive headache! In other words, can I get somewhere close to where I'll need to be, before I try using REW?
 
sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
Hey! You guys are getting off topic! The woodwork is the easy part, as far as I'm concerned. I just need to know which software I need to download from the Behringer website! :confused:

Plus, should I just get the basic setup sorted out before even thinking about REW, because that looks like it's gonna give me a massive headache! In other words, can I get somewhere close to where I'll need to be, before I try using REW?
Yes you can just by following the simple step by step tutorial by haoleb, see link a few posts, actually here is the link. http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showpost.php?p=554655&postcount=42
If you follow these steps you will be enjoying your subs immediately.
 
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GO-NAD!

GO-NAD!

Audioholic Spartan
I didn't receive answers to all my questions in the first post, so I'll throw them out there again:

1) Cables - Have I got this right?

2 x RCA/male XLR cables, from amp L/R pre-outs to DCX A/B inputs.
3 x RCA/female XLR cables, from DCX 1/2/3 outputs to amp L/R main ins and sub in.
4)Is the power cord grounded, or just two-prong?

5)If it's two-prong, is it safe to plug this unit into the receptacle on my amplifier and leave it switched to "on", so that it will power up when I turn on the amplifier?

I recall reading somewhere that you should turn it on first and turn it off last, to prevent spikes going to the speakers. Did I dream that, or is there substance to that statement?

I plan to build the sub later this winter, but in the meantime, I thought I'd get the DCX and use it with my present sub. It will all depend on the amount of "interaction" required after initial setup. It's not an issue for me, but if the wife has to do any more than simply switch it on, it's going to be a problem! I'm not even sure she'd be happy to have to walk over to the component stand.
If anyone did answer one or both of those questions and I simply don't see it, my apologies.
 
sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
I didn't receive answers to all my questions in the first post, so I'll throw them out there again:





If anyone did answer one or both of those questions and I simply don't see it, my apologies.
Answer for cables-rca sub out on avr to the xlr in on the DCX 2496, xlr out from the DCX to xlr in on the Behringer 2500 amp.

There is definitely a ground plug on the DCX and no I do not plug it into my amp actually I dont plug any thing into the amp, but I am sure to have all component plugged in to same circuit and I dont have any ground loop issue.
 
GO-NAD!

GO-NAD!

Audioholic Spartan
Answer for cables-rca sub out on avr to the xlr in on the DCX 2496, xlr out from the DCX to xlr in on the Behringer 2500 amp.

There is definitely a ground plug on the DCX and no I do not plug it into my amp actually I dont plug any thing into the amp, but I am sure to have all component plugged in to same circuit and I dont have any ground loop issue.
I guess there should've been some preamble to my questions. I'm not using an AVR, it's an integrated amp. I intend to equalize my main L/R speakers with the DCX as well. And, the sub will be powered by a BASH plate amp.
 
Haoleb

Haoleb

Audioholic Field Marshall
you basically just need 5 cables with an rca on one and and XLR on the other.

OR you can get RCA-XLR adapters that are basically an XLR plug with an RCA jack sticking out the back where the cable usually would be.
 
GO-NAD!

GO-NAD!

Audioholic Spartan
you basically just need 5 cables with an rca on one and and XLR on the other.

OR you can get RCA-XLR adapters that are basically an XLR plug with an RCA jack sticking out the back where the cable usually would be.
Thanks a lot. Can you tell me if it's OK to leave it on all the time, or are there any issues with a signal spike going to the speakers when I switch the amp on?
 
MidnightSensi

MidnightSensi

Audioholic Samurai
Thanks a lot. Can you tell me if it's OK to leave it on all the time, or are there any issues with a signal spike going to the speakers when I switch the amp on?
You can leave it on all the time. Newer dbX units don't even have power switches.

Turning an amp on won't make the Behringer pop, the popping is when you turn it on or off with an amp already on downstream.
 
Haoleb

Haoleb

Audioholic Field Marshall
I leave mine on 24/7 since the amplifiers for my main speakers are also on 24/7, there is no problem with doing so but i have noticed i needed to reboot it a couple times because once i think the level led's stopped working and once the screen had some funny display or something like that. But simply turning it off and then back on fixed it. Only had to that twice since ive had it which is over a year of being turned on now..
 
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