Dayton ultimax 15 sealed eq for lower response?

[roadrune]

That is outside measured responce.

You will need eq on this like most tapped horns.

My two is within 2db from 17-80hz in room.

 

[everettT]

One question for YIOF, can you build the subs that are not prefabed?

 

[yepimonfire]

f you are not worried about the cabinet size, then this sub will give you 115 db at just over 20 Hz.

F3 is 22.48 Hz. No eq required.

A number of members have built this sub and have been very pleased with it. Ares was the first to built it, and Haloeb did a wonderful build of two of them.

I'm a noob when it comes to building speakers, and I'm not exactly experienced woodworking. What would the ideal dimensions of the box be? I'm assuming the slot port would just be built with MDF? What about bracing? I'm assuming the woofer doesn't need to be flush mounted, since baffle diffraction isn't an issue with sub bass frequencies.

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[everettT]

I wouldnt use mdf unless you can have it cut to size at the lumber yard, the dust is a pia and the weight is heavy, good Baltic Birch is easier to handle. Do you have the correct tools?

 

[yepimonfire]

I wouldnt use mdf unless you can have it cut to size at the lumber yard, the dust is a pia and the weight is heavy, good Baltic Birch is easier to handle. Do you have the correct tools?

I have a screwdriver and pliers lol. Where do I even get Baltic birch? What's the price difference compared to MDF? I would likely have all of the cuts except for the woofer hole and port holes cut at some place like home depot, and just rent a jigsaw for the holes. My inexperience working with wood, lack of tools, and amount of time needed to invest in building my own box was one reason I was looking at prefabs, but it seems like similar to already built consumer speakers, the options sacrifice sound quality for form factor.

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[everettT]

Clamps, circle jig, router preferably, drill, if no router a jig saw, filler for any imperfections, sandpaper or sander, glue... etc

Google lumber near you for the wood. Depending on your finishing you can get a cheaper but good plywood..

Also not depending on how you finish it if you go with mdf, it needs prepping for paint.

I have a screwdriver and pliers lol. Where do I even get Baltic birch? What's the price difference compared to MDF? I would likely have all of the cuts except for the woofer hole and port holes cut at some place like home depot, and just rent a jigsaw for the holes. My inexperience working with wood, lack of tools, and amount of time needed to invest in building my own box was one reason I was looking at prefabs, but it seems like similar to already built consumer speakers, the options sacrifice sound quality for form factor.

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[yepimonfire]

Clamps, circle jig, router preferably, drill, if no router a jig saw, filler for any imperfections, sandpaper or sander, glue... etc

Google lumber near you for the wood. Depending on your finishing you can get a cheaper but good plywood..

Also not depending on how you finish it if you go with mdf, it needs prepping for paint.

What type of plywood is decent?

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[everettT]

How do you plan on finishing it?

 

[yepimonfire]

How do you plan on finishing it?

I haven't really thought that far, I suppose I could just stain it a medium cherry to match my furniture or I could go with black since that would match my speakers. I want to keep the finish simple.

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[TheWarrior]

I haven't really thought that far, I suppose I could just stain it a medium cherry to match my furniture or I could go with black since that would match my speakers. I want to keep the finish simple.

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General Finishes Dye Stains can be used with out top coat, FYI. And they're water based so they don't stink up the house like Minwax.

 

[lovinthehd]

The big

What type of plywood is decent?

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For the ply get as high a ply count and as void free as possible, baltic birch (real stuff) is quite good but not always available (at least near me).

 

[yepimonfire]

The big


For the ply get as high a ply count and as void free as possible, baltic birch (real stuff) is quite good but not always available (at least near me).

What else can be used if I can't find Baltic birch?

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[TheWarrior]

What else can be used if I can't find Baltic birch?

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Domestic plywood typically has fewer, thicker layers. Great for cabinetry, not ideal for speakers due to the voids. With imported plywood, scan the stack for heavily broken edges, de-lamination type things. These are almost always thin ply construction which is fine as long as a good adhesive was used. A casual inspection of the whole stack of sheets from one batch gives you a pretty good indicator.

 

[Tri-amp craftsman]

...good Baltic Birch is easier to handle. Do you have the correct tools?

where do ya buy Baltic birch. Does Lowe's or HD sell the right type? Does BB demand special tools versus regular plywood or MDF?

 

[TheWarrior]

where do ya buy Baltic birch. Does Lowe's or HD sell the right type? Does BB demand special tools versus regular plywood or MDF?

Depends on location for Lowes/HD. You can also search local lumber yards that may offer a more competitive price.

MDF destroys blades, I only use my old ones to cut it. Just use a cross cut blade!

 

[Tri-amp craftsman]

Depends on location for Lowes/HD.

not sure what you mean by this. Some carry* it, some don't? Or "it IS BB" but may not be any better than the regular stuff.

If I follow your earlier post, BB is higher quality. Local Lowe's / HD site has pictures showing thinner plys and more of them.

MDF destroys blades, I only use my old ones to cut it. Just use a cross cut blade!

so BB does NOT require special tools. It's more like regular plywood, Great!

I'm considering layering 1/2" or 3/4" MDF INSIDE and for bracing.

Thanks

 

[everettT]

I purchase all my lumber from true lumber yards. Too many defects with lowes and home depot. Birch or Baltic Birch is void free and is Birch at the core and cross banded for superior strength. High quality functional furniture and cabinet makers use it. MDF is very messy and heavy. As for tools I was refering to the right wood working tools, which would be the same for either product.

 

[highfigh]

I have a screwdriver and pliers lol. Where do I even get Baltic birch? What's the price difference compared to MDF? I would likely have all of the cuts except for the woofer hole and port holes cut at some place like home depot, and just rent a jigsaw for the holes. My inexperience working with wood, lack of tools, and amount of time needed to invest in building my own box was one reason I was looking at prefabs, but it seems like similar to already built consumer speakers, the options sacrifice sound quality for form factor.

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Call a cabinet shop and find out if they expect a slow period during Winter. If you want accuracy, this is the place to go to and they usually have scrap materials on hand from other jobs.

Cabinet-grade Baltic Birch isn't cheap and it doesn't come in normal sheet sizes- usually 5' x 5', 5' x 10', etc rather than 49" x 97", which is typical for MDF and particle board (because the edges get banged up in handling).

 

[highfigh]

Depends on location for Lowes/HD. You can also search local lumber yards that may offer a more competitive price.

MDF destroys blades, I only use my old ones to cut it. Just use a cross cut blade!

Old blades go bad much faster than sharp ones because the dull edges cause more friction and heat is the ultimate cause of any failure. Good carbide blades can cut a lot of MDF before they'll need sharpening- I have one Forrest blade and unless I'm cutting dados, it's just about the only blade I have used over almost 25 years. I have cut various hardwoods, softwoods, MDF, particle board, OSB, BB, nails, LVL (Laminated Veneer Lumber) and it has been sharpened twice since I bought it. I built my own kitchen cabinets and counters, speaker boxes, shelves, rough lumber of many species, trim and plastic but it still cuts hardwood OR softwood like butter, without tear-out or burning (unless the wood is high in sugar content or I let it sit there for too long).

Good blades last a lot longer- it's painful to pay for good ones, but they're worth it. I would, however, recommend buying at woodworking shows or online unless your local sellers will match prices.

 

[highfigh]

And since we're talking about woodworking & blades, there's this, to remind us that woodworking tools are only for woodworking-

https://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/news/woodworking-industry-news/man-pops-pimple-woodworking-blade-infection-devastates?utm_source=Real_Magnet&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=Highfigh@yahoo.com&utm_content=DAILY BRIEF&utm_campaign=Don't pop pimples with woodworking blades