I just about decided to order the 120 because it seems to be the best under $150 on the market, but this thread has me concerned.
There is no cause for concern that I can see. The OP simply appears to have expected the Dayton sub to perform like an entry level SVS or similar - which is at a far higher dollar mark.
Should I buy this sub, or spring for the extra $60 or so for the Hsu-designed Atlantic Tech closeout at PE that's here???:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=309-175
I can't comment on that sub - but it's probably a very low performing entry level model.
BTW Chris...what is the minimum $$$$ before thinking about a DIY sub?
IMO, there is no sense in using a 2nd rate driver and underpowered amp if you are going DIY. You may as well do it right the 1st time.
The Infinity Kappa Perfect 12VQ is a 1st rate driver with very low distortion. At about $170 for the driver. You want to feed this driver a minimum of 500 clean watts. A MASH technology amp rated at 500 watts would be fine. Make sure it has a subsonic filter - this is important for high powered ported systems to prevent over-excursion under the tuning frequency. About $250 probably. $100 for building materials and finish, feet, etc.
A touch over $500 will get you a 1st rate ported subwoofer that outperform most commercial units regardless of price.
Of course, don't overlook the cabinet itself. A critical part of the equation. You can ask me or avaserfi or TLS guy for suggested cabinet volume and port specifications. The port must be a slot port folded over in the cabinet to get sufficient port area as not to compress the port output. Most subs have substantial port compression, btw.
-Chris
