They are called spikes but they are not actually pointy spikes that would penetrate into the carpet. I have the model with only the front footing and the front bottom footing is flat machined steel where there is a cut out that houses a ball. This ball is meant to sit on something hard. Having this on carpet doesn't make any sense because the ball just sinks in and is not decoupling anything. I think like everyone here said, I'll just leave it as is and just not use the steel ball that is included when on the carpet.
I do have an Aurelex subwoofer base that I can try out... however, I only have one.
This is minor.... I have other things to spend money on first (see pros and joes gallery forum) but thought that this would be something to get some insight on.
Thanks peeps!
I could suggest a DIY solution. I saw some spike bases (designed to be placed under a spike on hardwood floors) that had 3 short spikes on a Stainless disk about 3" in diameter but I have no idea of the brand or what exactly they were called.
But ... if you go to a Sporting Goods store, where they cater to bowhunters, you can ask for three field points and three inserts (they will know what you are talking about, when they ask what arrows you use, just tell them you aren't using them for bowhunting and to give you whatever size is cheapest).
Then to a machine shop, show them the inserts, and explain you want an aluminum or brass disk (cheaper to machine than SS) with three equidistant holes bored near the outside edge, to fit the outside dimension of the inserts. Not too thick because you don't want to tilt your speakers back too much, so only as thick as the insert will travel, maybe just a bit thicker and tell them you want a blind hole (so the insert won't be visible from the top side). You could even go quite thin (say, ⅜") if you don't mind seeing the ends of the insert popping through.
Explain you don't need a tight fit, just enough to easily tap in the insert (which is aluminum) and maybe three inches or so in diameter.
For the sake of illustration, let's say it ends up being 3" x ⅝", with the centerline of the holes drilled ½" from the outside edge; that will be the "bottom" side. If you need something to locate the footer on your Totems (I don't know what they look like) maybe have them also machine a dimple on the top side to fit the footer so it doesn't move once installed.
Now go home, mix up a little epoxy, don't need much, and lightly coat the insert with a toothpick before tapping it gently into the three holes bored in the bottom of the disk. Wait a day (even if the epoxy package says it sets in a few minutes, it gets stronger over 24 hours) and then screw in the field points. If you have a girlfriend / sister / mom, ask to borrow some nail polish and before you screw them in, put a tiny dab covering three threads of the field points near but not at the inside or outside end if you want, that will insure they don't loosen.
They might balk at your plans when you explain what you want it for, but every girl has nail polish she doesn't use anymore. Just don't get anything with glitter or whatever in it, plain coloured or clear nail polish does the trick. Of course if you have LocTite laying around you can use that, but don't go out and buy a bottle, the nail polish (lacquer with a little pigment) works fine for free, and the brush applicator is perfect for the job.
You will now have a disk with three spikes, so it is stable and won't move, those field points will definitely get through the carpet (they're sharp) and you can place the front single footer, whatever it looks like, on the top.
Advanced Snake Oil: you could put a small ball of Blu-Tak between your disk and the Totem's footer. Like a ¼" ball of the stuff.
Total cost would depend mostly on the machining; I don't know what a shop around you would charge but around here maybe $30, maybe less. (I get most of my machining done for the price of material, which is sometimes free scrap, and a box of beer).
Shop around (talk to at least three shops, and seek out ones with an old grizzled machinist using manual lathes if you can find one ... the CNC guys might want to charge you a setup fee, which isn't worth it for a one-off). Maybe even call a Community College with a Machinist course and get a student to do one, would be cheap, probably.
The field points and inserts will give you change from a tenner, maybe a five.
Not saying to buy from these guys, just the first hit in Google ...
Example: Field Points (you can get as "snake oil" as you like with shape and material, but black steel works fine):
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/arrows/arrow-components/screw-in-points.html
Example: Inserts (don't get too fancy here, just make sure they fit your field points and aren't too long):
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/victory-aluminum-insert.html
You don't have to be married to the metal disk part ... if you're handy you could use wood instead ... plywood or even something that fits your decor ... and just drill those holes yourself, make a dimple on the top with a large bit not drilled too deeply, and away you go.
Probably safest to mark out your disk first, drill your holes, and then get the jigsaw out instead of trying to drill a small disk after it's cut out.
