Pyrrho

Pyrrho

Audioholic Ninja
So I ran audyssey and this is what it set it at

Def tech Front Right Towers bp7002....... 200hz
Def tech cs 8040hd 120hz
Energy Cb Front Wide 40hz
Def tech surround (R/L) sr8040bp 150hz
Klipsch rear surround 100hz

So as of now I have everything set to small and fronts at 60hz and everything else at 80hz but it still sounds not right yet... Maybe I should set towers at large and everything else at 80hz but then am I loosing anything then,as far as dropouts in the mid frequencit's? I'm kinda stuck as where to go from here.. Maybe I'll rerun audyssey again...Also does audyssey hurt speakers, I have heard both ways.
Audyssey does not damage speakers, so if that is what you mean by "hurt," then do not worry. However, whether it helps or hurts the sound quality is another matter. Clearly, if it is setting the crossovers as you have indicated, it is doing a very poor job of selecting crossover frequencies.

In your case, since your main speakers have powered subwoofers built-in, you have an added complication in the setup, as the main speakers have a level control for the subwoofer. I recommend setting it at 12 o'clock, as per the manual page 7. I would set all speakers to small, and set the crossovers at 80 Hz for everything except the front right and left. With the crossover for the front speakers, I would experiment as I suggested already above.

Now, after these manual settings are selected, you will want to run Audyssey again for levels and possibly for EQ (though if it is getting the crossovers so very wrong, I doubt I would trust it with EQ and just bypass its EQ). Make sure you carefully follow the directions in your manual for microphone placement and orientation, or Audyssey will get things wrong due to the improper placement of the microphone.

I suppose I should also mention that this advice is all predicated on the idea that you have properly placed your speakers; you may want to visit Dolby's web site and look at their recommendations for speaker placement, and try to follow that as closely as possible, before running Audyssey (because if you move the speakers after running Audyssey, you need to rerun Audyssey for the new placement). Here is a link to Dolby:

Home Theater Surround Sound Speaker Placement and Setup Guide

See also:

Home Theater Speaker Layout - An Essential Guide | Audioholics


Now, after it is set up, I recommend decoding the various formats without any extra processing, as often DSP modes make things not sound right, and so you should bypass them if you are having troubles with getting it to sound right. Look in your receiver manual for this.

Ultimately, you may or may not like the sound afterwards, depending on how well you did the setup, and also on how well you like your speakers.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
I have been following this thread with interest. It will remain a thorny issue. There is no usual system. The fact is a sub involves a crossover and as with all crossovers an off the shelf solution does not work. As much care needs to be taken with the handover from sub to the other speakers as any other. Auto Eq programs have to be regarded with deep suspicion.

The next issue is that what is perceived as bass is actually well out of sub range. Almost all off the shelf speakers placed in any room will have a highly inaccurate bass, and that includes the bass and lower mid range above sub cut off. My researches have shown that baffle step compensation is crucial. The problem is that optimal BSC is different for every room and for different positions within the room. I have also found that all passive solutions to this problem are far less than ideal. For really accurate reproduction at the lower end of the scale active solutions are mandatory. BSC has to be customized to a set of speakers at a particular location to get perfectly accurate bass reproduction. In addition low Q systems are mandatory.

From a practical stand point, individuals who listen extensively to speakers quickly get a warped frame of reference to the lower end of the spectrum. It is much easier to adapt and accept as "normal" aberrations in this area which would not be acceptable in the midrange. In addition for most music to day there is no frame of reference in this area. However if you listen to ensembles using natural instruments it becomes a crucial issue. It is especially crucial if you are an enthusiast of eighteenth century mechanical tracker organs and their modern copies. These guys, especially the Germans were definitely low Q guys! How they consistently achieved that in their instruments at that time remains a mystery to me.

Then we get to practical considerations such as drivers decoupling from the box below port augmentation. This leads to large cone excursions, high distortion and the potential for damage on ported speakers with small drivers. So I think it is a safe and sensible recommendation to set those speakers to small with crossover certainly no lower than F3 and possible half an octave above that.

Now B & W are strong proponents of setting speakers to large and using the sub to augment the bass. I agree with this where feasible.

This should be the first approach with speakers that are sealed, for TLs (not mass loaded ones) and horns, where issues of sudden decoupling are not an issue. I think the same advice can be given for larger ported three way speakers with large bass drivers and F3 at 40 or below.

Careful listening along with careful measurements are key.

The classical arena presents especially thorny problems. If you are a frequent concert goer there is a higher chance than usual that you will develop an accurate frame of reference. I note that high end audio dealers tend to eschew subs. The reason being it is very hard to get pleasing results. It really does require an intimate knowledge of speakers sub and room to get it right. In addition the crossover slopes need setting with added Eq from programs like REW or better.

Getting all this really right is very difficult and requires more time and effort than most people are prepared to give it.

This last weekend we had the Minnesota Bach Societies annual Bach's Birthday Bash. That was four concerts in four locations between 10:00 AM and 4:30 PM last Saturday. The programs were largely but not exclusively organ music. We were treated to two German voiced tracker instruments, one Portuguese voiced tracker instrument and one electric action British voiced instrument.

The German trackers are the devil to reproduce. The bass is tight as a drum, and the upper mid and HF energy is enormous. No speakers with a loose bass need apply!

The point is that organ builders voice the instruments to the space over weeks. Loudspeakers I believe have to be voiced to the room also. Setting up the sub is part of it.
 
H

herbu

Audioholic Samurai
Chefp2010,
Well... there you go. Now it's clear for not only you, but all "Beginners and Audiophytes", including me. :confused: :rolleyes:
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
Chefp2010,
Well... there you go. Now it's clear for not only you, but all "Beginners and Audiophytes", including me. :confused: :rolleyes:
The problem is that this is not by its nature simple problem. We are talking about a crossover here. Now we know if you take a set of drivers and buy an off the shelf crossover from parts Express the results will be awful. That is exactly what we are doing with a sub crossover. You have a high pass with a second order slope in the receiver output to the speakers and a fourth order low pass filter at the LFE out. Things are a little better than the parts Express example as the crossover point is variable. In another way they are worse, as the crossover region has the potential, and in fact usually does interact with room modes.

Now there is a mitigating factor. Everyone is familiar with the sound of the human voice. This makes an off the shelf parts Express crossover a real disaster, as the response aberration will be highly noticeable as everyone has a really good point of reference in the crossover region. However for music in the pop domain and most movie scenes there is really no comparable point of reference to the human speech disaster. So for practical purposes if sounds good and not offensive in the bottom end everybody is happy usually.

So the take home is that bass can sound good and not be accurate and if there is no point of reference whose to know?

The other issue is that abundant research has shown that what people perceive as bass is at a much higher frequency than they think, unless you are a highly trained critical listener. In fact the area where people are most sensitive to problems is well outside the sub range. The higher the frequency at which the problems occur the more people will object.

Things however break down when you are reproducing natural instruments naturally miked and recorded with no special effects. People who have a good point of reference for cellos, double basses, pianos, tympani, tubas, and above all good mechanical tracker pipe organs, are going to cry foul, and they do. They will find problems in this area aplenty as a general rule. That is why they seldom use subs. To get those instruments I mention to sound like being there is very difficult, and I believe almost impossible with a sub placed in a different location from the speakers. The crossover occurring in the range of the fundamental frequencies I have mentioned is an added problem.

I can assure you that speakers, subs and receiver does not solve the problem.

To cut to the chase my advice is if at all possible set the mains to large, and use the sub to gently just fill in the bottom end.

If your speakers are not robust enough for full range duty use the small setting and experiment with the crossover point. Bear in mind the crossover frequency for the sub is likely to be different for the mains. It is rare in any crossover situation for the electrical frequency of the crossover point to be the same for both drivers being crossed over. When you add electrical and acoustic slopes together, then you get the symmetrical crossover. This is hard to achieve without measurements.

This latter issue actually goes to the heart of the problem. The slopes of the electrical crossovers in the receiver are fixed, but all speakers to which the receiver is connected have all manor of different acoustic slopes with none identical.

So that is why in my reference system I have designed an integrated full range speaker system that does not require a sub.

When I do use subs I design the speaker and subs as an integrated package designed to work together.

Let me show you what I mean.

These speakers have four compartments. Below the tweeter is the bass/mid in one sealed cavity. Below that is the BSC driver in its own sealed cavity. In the box are two 9" sub drivers in isobarik configuration. It is a band pass sub, with one sealed and one vented cavity. The 3db points are 27 Hz and 90 Hz. Roll off is second order. The bass/mid and BSC speakers are designed with a 3db point of 90 Hz and since sealed roll off second order. So there is an acoustic crossover at 90 HZ.



Now interestingly, i was able to get the Marantz pre/pro to duplicate the electronic crossover I built for these speakers. Now band pass subs have a slightly peaked response. So the crossover is symmetrical by setting the high pass crossover to 60 Hz, so the woofer slopes are second order (12db per octave) acoustic from 90 to 60 Hz and then fourth order (24 db per octave) combined electrical and acoustic slopes below 60 Hz.

Now the sub rolls off nicely second order above 90 HZ and to prevent HF radiation from the port the LFE low pass was set to 120 Hz.

Since most speakers are ported Qb4 boxes, it makes it very difficult to get a nice crossover.

QB4 ported boxes, the speaker type most commonly in use today, roll off fourth order. when you add the receiver crossover the toll of is sixth order, (36 db per octave). Now the sub will roll off above crossover fourth order at 24 db per octave. Sometimes the room will bail you out, at other times it will work against you. On the other hand a sealed main speaker or properly designed TL would form a symmetrical combined acoustic and electrical crossover. That is why THX in their specs and set up recommend a sealed alignment for mains.

I know this is a complex topic, and it is no wonder people are confused and often achieve unsatisfactory results. However with current practice as usually applied an awful lot is left to chance. So expect results to vary.
 
C

chefp2010

Enthusiast
I agree it's very difficult and as of now I have mains set to large and everything else set to small with 80 hz crossover and bass management is lfm+main.... Not sure if this is correct.. Never did I imagine after spending all this $ on gear would it be this difficult to aquire the sound that I want but nevertheless I love challenges and like to learn so I'll be all ears and appreciate all the help I can get not that I understand all the lingo so please bare with me and I'll try to break it down as best as I can... So. """Tls Guy where should I start from.....I've heard some people state that they go into audyssey and set crossovers and dynamic volume to offun and so forth but I thought when you do audyssey it wipes what ever was set prior to the calibration... is this true or not? Thx again
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
I agree it's very difficult and as of now I have mains set to large and everything else set to small with 80 hz crossover and bass management is lfm+main.... Not sure if this is correct.. Never did I imagine after spending all this $ on gear would it be this difficult to aquire the sound that I want but nevertheless I love challenges and like to learn so I'll be all ears and appreciate all the help I can get not that I understand all the lingo so please bare with me and I'll try to break it down as best as I can... So. """Tls Guy where should I start from.....I've heard some people state that they go into audyssey and set crossovers and dynamic volume to offun and so forth but I thought when you do audyssey it wipes what ever was set prior to the calibration... is this true or not? Thx again
Well you have a situation that is not typical. That happens often.

I have to say straight away that I'm not at all fond of DefTech speakers. In addition their specs are meaningless. I have no idea what the true reach of your Deftech towers really is. They list a meaningless frequency response, with no mention of the point at which the speakers are 3 db or 6 db down. This makes giving you precise advice impossible.

You have set the mains to full range as per DefTech's instructions. You have also set the rest to small and DefTech require the center be set to no lower than 80 Hz. Leave the LFE connection disconnected for now.

I would now play a good CD with reasonable bass content in pure direct stereo mode. Play a variety of discs and set the subs in your towers optimally by ear.

Now connect the LFE output to the towers and set the LFE control on the towers at the mid point.

Now run the Audyssey speaker set up and let Audyssey set the speaker levels, distance and the LFE output. If it sets the crossover below 80 Hz over ride it and put it back to 80 Hz.

Now you will need a Y connector to connect your additional sub. This is were it will get tricky and Audyssey will not help you here. You have two subs already in your towers and now you have a different sub, the Outlaw LFM 1. It is generally a good idea to have multiple subs all the same. I would leave both ports open. Closing one port will give you the extended bass alignment. This gives a nasty sloppy bass and port chuff. So be content with an F3 of 25 Hz.

You will have to play with this sub by ear. Connect it with the other end of the Y from the LFE output. I think 80 Hz will be too high for this sub. So I think you will have to break a rule and used stacked crossovers. I would start by setting the crossover on the sub to 40 Hz. Set the level by ear. You will need to experiment with the optimal position for this sub.

Experiment with the crossover point and level of this sub extensively. Also make sure this sub is not a detriment. It may well be you are better off without this sub.

Once you have things as optimized as you can get, run Audyssey again and see were it sets the LFE level. See if you prefer your setting or the Audyssey setting, and select the one you like best. Make sure you keep the LFE crossover at 80 Hz.

I do not recommend you use the auto Eq of Audyssey. This whole concept to my mind and others is fatally flawed. That function makes good systems lousy.

I don't know what you will play on this system. Hopefully with this advice you can get a sound that pleases playing your preferred choices. Unfortunately with your selection of gear, if your preferences are like mine, then no advice I can give you will ever make you happy with this rig.

Let us know how you get on. You will have to devote some time to this.
 
walter duque

walter duque

Audioholic Samurai
Try this. Unplug you're ac cord from you DT, run you're audyssey and them plug in the ac power cord for you subs and tune them in by ear. My speakers which have build on subs are easier to set up then yours. Speakers with build in subs suck, they do sound good to the untrained ear. Good sales pitch. I got mine 12 some years ago and they wet for 5k, never again. They where impressive when I got them.
 
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C

chefp2010

Enthusiast
I'm a little confused you said that I was to play a Cd in say pure or direct and adjust subs in my towers which I understand but then again I don't understand when you say to then hook up lfe and adjust them to midpoint that where I'm confused because I thought I already adjusted them when I was to play Cd.....I only have on dial to adjust gain on these thx again
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
I'm a little confused you said that I was to play a Cd in say pure or direct and adjust subs in my towers which I understand but then again I don't understand when you say to then hook up lfe and adjust them to midpoint that where I'm confused because I thought I already adjusted them when I was to play Cd.....I only have on dial to adjust gain on these thx again
Sorry if I did not make things clear. The instruction manuals for these speakers are dreadful like everything else about them. Set the internal subs with the base control on CD in strict two channel mode, no LFE. Now add the LFE starting with an output from your received on the LFE at the 0 db point. Now set that level at first be ear and then run Audyssey and see where it sets the level. Then add in your Outlaw sub and follow the instructions I gave you above.

If you can't get decent sound you like after a month or so of listening and tweeking, then get rid of the DefTechs. They are speakers I could never live with and you might not be able to either. But give it a good college try!
 
C

chefp2010

Enthusiast
Okay so what your saying is
1. Play a Cd in direct/stereo mode and adjust the bass on the towers using the know on the towers? Yes/No?

2. Connect the lfe cable to the towers from the receivers sub preouts and use my avr to adjust the 0db to a desired setting then run audyssey

Is this what your saying or am I missing some thing?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
Okay so what your saying is
1. Play a Cd in direct/stereo mode and adjust the bass on the towers using the know on the towers? Yes/No?

2. Connect the lfe cable to the towers from the receivers sub preouts and use my avr to adjust the 0db to a desired setting then run audyssey

Is this what your saying or am I missing some thing?
That is pretty much it. Make sure that Audyssey does not change the crossover point or your small large settings and if it does over ride it.
 
O

OM PRAKASH DWIVEDI

Enthusiast
Hello

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