Covering entire walls with absorbing panels?

M

Mark Holmes

Audiophyte
Another way to cover up an ugly wall is to hang a faux rug. I think this is probably the simplest idea and requires the least installation effort. You can turn another boring wall into a decorative element that will help warm up the room.
These work well if you have uneven walls or damaged textured surfaces that should not be covered with wallpaper.
 
gene

gene

Audioholics Master Chief
Administrator
NEVER cover entire surfaces with absorption In a listening room. We have a collection of acoustical related videos on our channel with Anthony Grimani you may want to check out.

Here is an overview of my theater room where I talk about this:

 
witchdoctor

witchdoctor

Full Audioholic
I don't feel comfortable using the fiber glass and having the risk of it getting into the air. If the rock wool that I linked to is no good for this purpose then what else could I use?
I felt the same way, you can use acoustic foam or acoustic polyester fiber. I have used both with outstanding results and a shoestring budget. If you are DIY you can also use something called polyfill. These tiles come in various colors and they make two sizes 16 X 12 (which I used on my ceilings in white and back wall in tan) and 32 x 24 (which I used on my side walls in black and placed kitty corner in some corners). The other nice thing about polyester fiber is it is very light and I was able to place them using alien tape, NP:

 
Last edited:
witchdoctor

witchdoctor

Full Audioholic
NEVER cover entire surfaces with absorption In a listening room. We have a collection of acoustical related videos on our channel with Anthony Grimani you may want to check out.

Here is an overview of my theater room where I talk about this:

Gene, this was the best video series and I owe you and Anthony a shout out for it, Thanks!
 
M

Mark Holmes

Audiophyte
Another way to cover up an ugly wall is to hang a faux rug. I think this is probably the simplest idea and requires the least installation effort. You can turn another boring wall into a decorative element that will help warm up the room.
These work well if you have uneven walls or damaged textured surfaces that should not be covered with wallpaper.
You can refer to many other ideas such as using wall paint, or rugs or maybe curtains and many more great ideas.
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
I don't feel comfortable using the fiber glass and having the risk of it getting into the air. If the rock wool that I linked to is no good for this purpose then what else could I use?
I didn't mean that it's not good for this application, but you asked about R value and that has nothing to do with acoustics.

However, the link shows this WRT disadvantages and it's really no different from Fiberglass in this respect-

"Disadvantages of Rockwool Insulation
Health Risks
The tiny slivers and fibers of mineral wool insulation can be easily accidentally inhaled or ingested during installation. These stone fibers can also become embedded in the skin, causing rashes, itchiness, and general skin irritation.

If inhaled, the tiny fibers of mineral wool can potentially irritate the alveoli and cause various lung problems. Therefore, it is good to wear gloves, goggles, a dust mask, a long-sleeved shirt, and other types of protective gear when installing mineral wool insulation. "


Don't disturb either after it's in place and you won't have any problems.
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Yes makes sense! I've been reading a bit here:

https://www.gearslutz.com/board/studio-building-acoustics/624411-acoustic-panels-roxul-safe-n-sound-rockboard-60-a.html

I learned a lot and It all coincides with what you just said. Do you think ,52 and ,75 is a significant difference? Why would something like the safe sound be less dense and effective as something that is not meant for sound?

I've looked on the Roxul site and couldn't seem to find density information... that's odd because the other site I linked to, the people are talking a lot about density.

I also have the drop ceiling with no insulation that I am thinking of doing. I also have 2 concrete walls surrounding the left front channel with an opening to the right of the listening position.I think insulating may help with noise getting through the ceiling and losing energy. I am also concerned about the reflections passing through the insulation and reflecting off the concrete walls. It might be wise to cover those walls with a 2-3 inch gap........ Not sure. I've ordered the mic so I will play around with it once it arrives.
You're not building a studio or conference room, right? The needs of a studio (in the room for recording or mixing) are very different from the needs of a listening room for music or home theater, so you don't need to cover everything. The photo of the walls with the gray covering looks like a conference room- if you want that look, you can have it but you would want to leave some areas as reflective or diffusive (again, only where needed).

Plastic channel for cloth wall covering-


Your drop ceiling should be insulated, but since that can act like a drum and isn't going to negatively affect the sound in the same way as a wall or flat ceiling, I would think about spray foam on the backside, or add drywall to the back of the framing, so the insulation can fill it the same way a wall is filled by batts.

IF the concrete walls require additional insulation and you don't want to give up a lot more space, the gap will help, but you need to calculate the needs of the room. Once the insulation is in place, the energy in the range from the midbass/lower mids to the highs will be greatly reduced, but you still need to find the places where it's needed most and the needed thickness (relating to the NRC).
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I have never used acoustic panels. There is nothing wrong with the sound in my rooms. I have never understood the need for these ugly panels, but I can think of numerous acoustic reasons why it is a very bad idea.

Now I note absurd plans in high end theaters for enormous numbers of speakers to put back the acoustics they have ruined.

What you do need to do is fight vibrations in the room vigorously. I have never bought, made or hung an acoustic panel and don't intend to. I design my speakers correctly, that is the solution.
 
O

OHMisback

Audioholic
What you do need to do is fight vibrations in the room vigorously. I have never bought, made or hung an acoustic panel and don't intend to. I design my speakers correctly, that is the solution.
When 1/2 the total sound is the room (and that may be a low number). I disagree with you 100% I've NEVER heard a room that didn't need treatment.
BTW I never worked in a hammer mill either.

Vibration control just like decoupling is very important. BUT no room treatment?

Blanket statements like this are what new people should not pay attention to. There is not a speaker design around depending on the
location of the speakers that some type of treatment wasn't or was added to make it SOUND correct. The wrong treatment can be
worse but not by much.

I've met a lot of people that built speakers, I've never EVER heard that statement. "A SPEAKER THAT FIXES THE ROOM".

It has always been my experience that room CORRECTION via mechanical passive materials, was where to start. How do your speakers
work in my room or anyone else's for that matter. What an arrogant statement to say the least.
Now there are Magic Speaker Designers too?

It's like saying chainsaws are worthless, Then someone STARTS one and YOU say what's that noise?

It's obvious you don't listen to other systems to make a reference like that. WOW.

No room treatment, I know I wouldn't be listening to it for long. You like Yoko Ono by chance? Please post your last hearing test. :) and lay
off the magic mushrooms.
 
Last edited:
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
When 1/2 the total sound is the room (and that may be a low number). I disagree with you 100% I've NEVER heard a room that didn't need treatment.
BTW I never worked in a hammer mill either.

Vibration control just like decoupling is very important. BUT no room treatment?

Blanket statements like this are what new people should not pay attention to. There is not a speaker design around depending on the
location of the speakers that some type of treatment wasn't or was added to make it SOUND correct. The wrong treatment can be
worse but not by much.

I've met a lot of people that built speakers, I've never EVER heard that statement. "A SPEAKER THAT FIXES THE ROOM".

It has always been my experience that room CORRECTION via mechanical passive materials, was where to start. How do your speakers
work in my room or anyone else's for that matter. What an arrogant statement to say the least.
Now there are Magic Speaker Designers too?

It's like saying chainsaws are worthless, Then someone STARTS one and YOU say what's that noise?

It's obvious you don't listen to other systems to make a reference like that. WOW.

No room treatment, I know I wouldn't be listening to it for long. You like Yoko Ono by chance? Please post your last hearing test. :) and lay
off the magic mushrooms.
Yes, it is the speaker and not the room, unless you are accustomed to place a speaker in a public lavatory.

If your family and friends sound perfectly normal in a room then a speaker should as well. I will admit speakers usually do not. But yes, it is largely a speaker problem.

In fact if you have an instrumentalist play his instrument in a room, it is the deadened room that will alter the expected sound of the instrument, not the untreated one.

So why is this? There are two aspects to this, the LF behavior of the room and everything else.

Just to show you I do not have treated walls, here are a couple of pictures of my room.





The LF problems are a function of room dimensions, and due to reinforcement and cancellation of reflected LF waves in the room. This effect is to a very large extent affected by the dimensions of the room, and room treatments do not help this much, unless the treatment was severe and would be a very bad room. This is primarily set by the ratios of the room dimensions. Since this is a new home, I was able to set optimal ratios of the room dimensions.

The speakers however do have a hand in this. Most speakers are resonant by virtue of their LF tuning. Even sealed speakers are resonant, but by carful design and DSP in the speaker design this can be minimized and actually now controlled in active designs.

There is a design which I have long favored that can be built and designed to be essentially non resonant, and still have very good and extended bass output. That is the aperiodically damped transmission line speaker. This can be damped to the point where this minimizes this room effect by reducing the Q of the speaker below 0.5. This can be determined by the impedance curve. This occurs when just enough damping is added to the pipe to suppress one of the two peaks of impedance. At that point the LF roll off will transition from fourth to second order. The weight of particular damping materials required to achieve this can now be precisely calculated after the model of George Augspurger. He has allowed me the privilege of hosting his design program on my web site free to all. The take home is that this critical damping reduces reinforcement of these problematic reflections.

The higher reflections are a different issue, and actually required for realistic reproduction and contribute to everyday life, and make every day sounds recognizable, especially voices you know well and easily recognize. So why do speakers have a particular and serious problem in this area?

The reason is actually simple, and it is due to sever aberrations in the direct sound of a speaker from the reflected sounds from the walls of the room. This severe defect is present in the majority of speakers unfortunately. It is caused by the off axis response not mirroring the on axis response. Our brains detect this serious defect and do not like it. This is where reducing room reflections helps but is far from the total answer. The correct solution is better speakers. If the off axis response closely mirrors the axis response our brains are happy. If not they cry foul. This defect can not be corrected by equalization. As EQ will alter both the axis and off axis responses and they will never match!

Here are the axis and off axis responses of one of my front right and left speakers.



Here is the center channel speaker, which is a coaxial design to give good uniform coverage to the whole listening area.



Now the room curves. I should state that my speakers are active, and the baffle step compensation is readily adjustable to voice speakers to the room. This is something that active design allows, and in a passive design is limited essentially to just two settings and as far as I know not available in commercial designs. JBL have, or did, have and expensive active design with adjustable BSC. (Baffle step compensation)

So here are three total system room curves. No Audyssey or Eq programs are in use and nor are they required.

This is the MLP at the center seat second row. The lowest trace is the impulse response and you can see all speakers are perfectly timed to the MLP. Obviously that can only occur at one position in the room. You can see there is slight room gain due to LF reflection reinforcement, but it is not severe and listening test show this balance is actually optimal.



Front row center.



Rear row center.



As you can tell, this room sounds very good indeed. Hanging dampening material about would only spoil it.

I should state that I now have 68 years experience building speakers and learned the art in the proverbial world of hard knocks. I started early and built my first speaker when I was seven years old.
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Overlord
When 1/2 the total sound is the room (and that may be a low number). I disagree with you 100% I've NEVER heard a room that didn't need treatment.
BTW I never worked in a hammer mill either.

Vibration control just like decoupling is very important. BUT no room treatment?

Blanket statements like this are what new people should not pay attention to. There is not a speaker design around depending on the
location of the speakers that some type of treatment wasn't or was added to make it SOUND correct. The wrong treatment can be
worse but not by much.

I've met a lot of people that built speakers, I've never EVER heard that statement. "A SPEAKER THAT FIXES THE ROOM".

It has always been my experience that room CORRECTION via mechanical passive materials, was where to start. How do your speakers
work in my room or anyone else's for that matter. What an arrogant statement to say the least.
Now there are Magic Speaker Designers too?

It's like saying chainsaws are worthless, Then someone STARTS one and YOU say what's that noise?

It's obvious you don't listen to other systems to make a reference like that. WOW.

No room treatment, I know I wouldn't be listening to it for long. You like Yoko Ono by chance? Please post your last hearing test. :) and lay
off the magic mushrooms.
I am officially handing out one bitch slap to you on behalf of The good Dr. Mark(TLS guy). Show some respect.
 
O

OHMisback

Audioholic
I am officially handing out one bitch slap to you on behalf of The good Dr. Mark(TLS guy). Show some respect
I couldn't have been more respectful to Dr Mark after a statement like that. You on the other hand, I'll return your bitch lap with a punch in the gut.
BTW I have your respect hangin', bucko.

There is NO need to back up silly statements like that or is it any of your business that I call it for what it is. TOTAL BS. I heard some whoppers
THAT one, was up there. A speaker design that removes the need for room acoustics.

It's like saying cables don't matter, they don't have a signature, they don't break in, they are not directional.
I measured it so it must sound the same no matter which direction the arrow points. LOL
I've found some of that to be true about arrows on cables after I checked, the direction was backwards AFTER looking at 1000 X

I have a few tons of boxed here. Aluminum, @ Corian, HDF, ply, MDF, Hardwood, Composites, rubber line, there is no perfect box just different.
I've MADE a lot of speakers in my life. Over 130 pairs and double that in repairs and mods. Subs I quit counting 30 years ago.
There is NO perfect box, there is no perfect room, thus acoustics.

I looked at your room there is a a lot of passive treatment in that room, your just not calling it what it is. That REAR wall is completely diffused
The front wall looks nice, I would never pocket speakers like that. I don't care what the design is. There is all kinds of things going on there.
The side wall are covered one end to the other. AGAIN diffusion. All the seats, I got no Idea. But they are HUGE factor in sound deflection
and absorption. The floor is carpeted?

I looked at your charts, there is all kinds of issues there, sorry, 10khz > there is a steady drop, no idea. It reads like a neo 8 planar without a tweeter.
I've seen this before.
50hz - 500hz is all over the place. It looks like the Sierra Nevadas. That is where a system has to shines for salsa/Latin music.
Helmholtz traps would take care of the peaks and a PEQ will fix the valleys. The drop off after 10K is probably the stuff all over the walls, floors
and that recessed ceiling. That is a busy room with TONS of treatment. Just not where you need, it.

I'm pretty sure I could fill 3 or 4 rooms with STUFF, I'm just not so sure it would sound so good. Look interesting yes, practical NO, not for serious
listening anyway.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I couldn't have been more respectful to Dr Mark after a statement like that. You on the other hand, I'll return your bitch lap with a punch in the gut.
BTW I have your respect hangin', bucko.

There is NO need to back up silly statements like that or is it any of your business that I call it for what it is. TOTAL BS. I heard some whoppers
THAT one, was up there. A speaker design that removes the need for room acoustics.

It's like saying cables don't matter, they don't have a signature, they don't break in, they are not directional.
I measured it so it must sound the same no matter which direction the arrow points. LOL
I've found some of that to be true about arrows on cables after I checked, the direction was backwards AFTER looking at 1000 X

I have a few tons of boxed here. Aluminum, @ Corian, HDF, ply, MDF, Hardwood, Composites, rubber line, there is no perfect box just different.
I've MADE a lot of speakers in my life. Over 130 pairs and double that in repairs and mods. Subs I quit counting 30 years ago.
There is NO perfect box, there is no perfect room, thus acoustics.

I looked at your room there is a a lot of passive treatment in that room, your just not calling it what it is. That REAR wall is completely diffused
The front wall looks nice, I would never pocket speakers like that. I don't care what the design is. There is all kinds of things going on there.
The side wall are covered one end to the other. AGAIN diffusion. All the seats, I got no Idea. But they are HUGE factor in sound deflection
and absorption. The floor is carpeted?

I looked at your charts, there is all kinds of issues there, sorry, 10khz > there is a steady drop, no idea. It reads like a neo 8 planar without a tweeter.
I've seen this before.
50hz - 500hz is all over the place. It looks like the Sierra Nevadas. That is where a system has to shines for salsa/Latin music.
Helmholtz traps would take care of the peaks and a PEQ will fix the valleys. The drop off after 10K is probably the stuff all over the walls, floors
and that recessed ceiling. That is a busy room with TONS of treatment. Just not where you need, it.

I'm pretty sure I could fill 3 or 4 rooms with STUFF, I'm just not so sure it would sound so good. Look interesting yes, practical NO, not for serious
listening anyway.
So if you think cables change sound and are directional, then you are truly delusional. Wire is wire, and that is the end of the story.
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
I have never used acoustic panels. There is nothing wrong with the sound in my rooms. I have never understood the need for these ugly panels, but I can think of numerous acoustic reasons why it is a very bad idea.

Now I note absurd plans in high end theaters for enormous numbers of speakers to put back the acoustics they have ruined.

What you do need to do is fight vibrations in the room vigorously. I have never bought, made or hung an acoustic panel and don't intend to. I design my speakers correctly, that is the solution.
Turn your system off, stand between two parallel walls and clap your hands. If you hear repeats with a short time between each, your room would be exhibiting 'flutter echo' and hard, parallel surfaces don't care if you think there's nothing wrong- it's going to happen when the walls aren't far apart. It's not a problem when some instruments are making the sound, but percussion can be a real problem, especially if that sound is produced without something to mask the flutter.

The first time I noticed this was when I was a kid after I clapped my hands while standing between two garages that were about 18' apart. Once I noticed that, I began to notice other sonic details and my curiosity is part of what led me to the audio industry.

Done properly, removing the flutter doesn't harm the overall sound but done badly, it's a problem. The great concert halls, churches and cathedrals weren't designed for percussive sounds, although some music that used percussion was written for these places- it just wasn't as loud as the organ or choirs. In these places, the distinct reflections are much farther apart and the decay time is much longer than in a residence.
 
O

OHMisback

Audioholic
So if you think cables change sound and are directional, then you are truly delusional. Wire is wire, and that is the end of the story.
I thought that would get your silly attention. The ONLY cable that's not directional is made of lead or sodium wire. So GK the great said. :)

So let me understand this, you DON'T think a cable sounds different one way vs the other, when it was constructed to be direction dominant?
You are Fired! Don't worry about my delusion, YOU ARE FIRED!! You are not delusional, it's much worse than I though, there is no cure.
I'm just glad it's not spreading.

I have NEVER ran cables except one direction, no matter the application. Wire from NAPA Auto Parts was looked at and marked EVERY TIME
in 1969 in my Fathers Garage and fuel station. I might still have the wire spool rack.

My father was a B-29 - 47 USAF MMAG (Military Maintenance Advisory Group) chief. Then F86 - F104. Korea - Vietnam
They pulled wire and used it in a DIRECTION off the spool. 1957 or 8. How far behind are you? That was a USAF preference for excellence.
Skunk works developed the PIN WHEEL cable design from the B-29/36s. Low/High altitude cable that can withstand a close proximity detonation and
continue to hold a field or re-establish one quickly. How long ago was that? 60+ years

He use to wind transformers, starters, generators, fix TVs, radios, Ham equipment. we had a machine shop at the ranch too.

ALL those repairs were done by first looking at the wire being used, nothing was random.
I was raised that way and then served my apprenticeship (S). MOST of my teachers that had electrical background paid attention to
cables. Most of them new my father. LOL

This is as old as dirt and there is a reason for it. It's not to PISS you off, or challenge anyone's beliefs. It's to make thing the SAME, NOT different.
THE SAME. I have always tried to PROVE thing WORK. Seldom do I approach a situation without that view.
I assure anyone here I can go behind YOUR work and find issues and TEAR YOU APART. That is way to easy and never been my intention.
I encourage and praising in public and chewing in private. The rest is pure posturing for keyboard pussies.

Next thing I'll be reading is "non directional caps" can be installed in either direction. NO they CAN'T. No wonder you can't tell the difference in
processed AV sound affects. Brainwashed into thinking it will fix the world's sound, when it was already FIXED to begin with.
Nothing is more unnatural than going to a movie good LORD!!

In the real world, BOOMS are a whole lot louder. Blood is really not red for very long, most people are pretty quiet in a war zone and nobody looks
like Brad Pitt after a war. Maybe Audie Murphy.

The movies are good for popcorn and pitchin' woo. I hate noise. I love music.

Time to feed the chickens.
 
O

OHMisback

Audioholic
The great concert halls, churches and cathedrals weren't designed for percussive sounds, although some music that used percussion was written for these places- it just wasn't as loud as the organ or choirs. In these places, the distinct reflections are much farther apart and the decay time is much longer than in a residence.
Interesting you mention concert halls. I checked out Gothic cathedral design in Spain and France both. Many use Helmholtz technology to take care of
the sound issues in cathedrals. NONE were the same nor sounded the same. Cambodia had some of the same types of tech in their temples.
India is a wonderful place to study acoustic affect in rooms if you can get by the incense in some of the temples, (mandirs) and entertainment
centers. Helmholtz resonators in the walls along with curtains can pretty much contour the sound the way you want in any area. Decay rates are
controlled with draw strings and curtains being closed or opened. BOOM issues (and lower frequencies) were controlled by uncovering resonators
filled with simple water for that venue. 3000 + years old. It worked perfect then, why not now?
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Interesting you mention concert halls. I checked out Gothic cathedral design in Spain and France both. Many use Helmholtz technology to take care of
the sound issues in cathedrals. NONE were the same nor sounded the same. Cambodia had some of the same types of tech in their temples.
India is a wonderful place to study acoustic affect in rooms if you can get by the incense in some of the temples, (mandirs) and entertainment
centers. Helmholtz resonators in the walls along with curtains can pretty much contour the sound the way you want in any area. Decay rates are
controlled with draw strings and curtains being closed or opened. BOOM issues (and lower frequencies) were controlled by uncovering resonators
filled with simple water for that venue. 3000 + years old. It worked perfect then, why not now?
That's interesting, because Helmholtz was alive from August 1821 - September 1894.

I wonder what they called this in the 12th Century.
 
Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Spartan
Yes makes sense! I've been reading a bit here:

https://www.gearslutz.com/board/studio-building-acoustics/624411-acoustic-panels-roxul-safe-n-sound-rockboard-60-a.html

I learned a lot and It all coincides with what you just said. Do you think ,52 and ,75 is a significant difference? Why would something like the safe sound be less dense and effective as something that is not meant for sound?

I've looked on the Roxul site and couldn't seem to find density information... that's odd because the other site I linked to, the people are talking a lot about density.

I also have the drop ceiling with no insulation that I am thinking of doing. I also have 2 concrete walls surrounding the left front channel with an opening to the right of the listening position.I think insulating may help with noise getting through the ceiling and losing energy. I am also concerned about the reflections passing through the insulation and reflecting off the concrete walls. It might be wise to cover those walls with a 2-3 inch gap........ Not sure. I've ordered the mic so I will play around with it once it arrives.
To absorb some of the reflections in my appartment living room, I have been using carpet samples which I bought from a carpet store. That works well and I got them at a very cheap price several years ago:
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
I felt the same way, you can use acoustic foam or acoustic polyester fiber. I have used both with outstanding results and a shoestring budget. If you are DIY you can also use something called polyfill. These tiles come in various colors and they make two sizes 16 X 12 (which I used on my ceilings in white and back wall in tan) and 32 x 24 (which I used on my side walls in black and placed kitty corner in some corners). The other nice thing about polyester fiber is it is very light and I was able to place them using alien tape, NP:

The ad states the absorption characteristics and NRC without showing the frequencies- that makes the ad useless- frequency absolutely MUST be shown when making this kind of statement.

"hand crafted"? Wrapped with fabric by humans isn't really 'crafted', unless they mean it to say "crafted, like a school book cover made from an old newspaper".

Those look like an Armstrong product-


If anyone wants to learn about acoustical materials, all they need to do is search for the MANUFACTURERS and go to their websites to read about the characteristics, not the people who sell someone else's products.
 
witchdoctor

witchdoctor

Full Audioholic
The ad states the absorption characteristics and NRC without showing the frequencies- that makes the ad useless- frequency absolutely MUST be shown when making this kind of statement.

"hand crafted"? Wrapped with fabric by humans isn't really 'crafted', unless they mean it to say "crafted, like a school book cover made from an old newspaper".

Those look like an Armstrong product-


If anyone wants to learn about acoustical materials, all they need to do is search for the MANUFACTURERS and go to their websites to read about the characteristics, not the people who sell someone else's products.
Like who do you recommend? Post some links? You made DIY panels, frequencies did they post for the materials?
 
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