Connecting Marantz SR8015 to External Amplifier for Polk Audio R700 Upgrade

[Pasargad]

Hi everyone,

I have a Marantz SR8015 receiver with 11 speakers connected to it. My setup includes:

• 1 center speaker
• 2 front speakers (left and right)
• 2 surround speakers
• 2 surround back speakers
• 4 above-Atmos speakers

The front left and right speakers are Tannoy Revolution XT8F, which I’ve enjoyed for about 7-8 years. I’ve purchased a pair of Polk Audio R700 based on the very positive reviews I’ve read and the price.

I've heard that the best performance from the R700s can be achieved by using a separate amplifier. I have a ToneWinner TW AD-7300 amplifier rated for 300 watts at 8 ohms with 7 channels. I’m thinking of using it to power just the new Polk Audio R700 front left and right speakers.

However, I’m not sure how to properly connect the receiver to the amplifier. The manual for the SR8015 isn’t very clear on this. Can anyone guide me on:

1. How to connect the Marantz SR8015 receiver to the ToneWinner amplifier?
2. Any necessary changes in the SR8015 settings/menu?
3. Whether I need to connect the trigger cable from the amplifier to the receiver?

Any detailed instructions or tips would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

In general, if you are new to this hobby and have to ask HOW to hook up an AVR to an external amp, it's probably best that you just stick to using only the Marantz AVR and not even mess with an external amp.

 

[Pasargad]

Thank you for your input! I do have some experience with connecting amplifiers! My main issue is actually with configuring the settings on the Marantz SR8015 receiver. I want to ensure that I'm setting everything up correctly to get the best performance from my new Polk Audio R700 speakers.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Thank you for your input! I do have some experience with connecting amplifiers! My main issue is actually with configuring the settings on the Marantz SR8015 receiver. I want to ensure that I'm setting everything up correctly to get the best performance from my new Polk Audio R700 speakers.

Also, just because an amplifier is “external” doesn’t mean it is even as good as a high quality internal amp of the Marantz.

Of note, one time a publication tested amps down to 1-ohms. While many AVRs and external amps failed this 1-ohm torture test, the Denon 3000-series (likely not as beefy as a flagship Marantz AVR) passed this 1-ohm test. So just because an amp is "external" doesn't mean that it's better.

 

[lovinthehd]

You simply connect the pre-outs on the avr for the appropriate channels to the amp, and the speakers for those channels to the appropriate terminals on the amp. I'd suggest re-running Audyssey or your manual setup to match levels for the internal and external amps, tho. A more powerful amp may drive the speakers a bit louder but otherwise I wouldn't expect sq changes.

 

[isolar8001]

Hi everyone,

I have a Marantz SR8015 receiver with 11 speakers connected to it. My setup includes:

• 1 center speaker
• 2 front speakers (left and right)
• 2 surround speakers
• 2 surround back speakers
• 4 above-Atmos speakers

The front left and right speakers are Tannoy Revolution XT8F, which I’ve enjoyed for about 7-8 years. I’ve purchased a pair of Polk Audio R700 based on the very positive reviews I’ve read and the price.

I've heard that the best performance from the R700s can be achieved by using a separate amplifier. I have a ToneWinner TW AD-7300 amplifier rated for 300 watts at 8 ohms with 7 channels. I’m thinking of using it to power just the new Polk Audio R700 front left and right speakers.

However, I’m not sure how to properly connect the receiver to the amplifier. The manual for the SR8015 isn’t very clear on this. Can anyone guide me on:

1. How to connect the Marantz SR8015 receiver to the ToneWinner amplifier?
2. Any necessary changes in the SR8015 settings/menu?
3. Whether I need to connect the trigger cable from the amplifier to the receiver?

Any detailed instructions or tips would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Sell the amp and buy a pair of Speedwoofer 12S's.....You have no sub/s, which will make a far bigger impact than just making your fronts a couple of db's louder. (if that would even happen)
You already have a fine amp in the Marantz.

 

[Pasargad]

Sell the amp and buy a pair of Speedwoofer 12S's.....You have no sub/s, which will make a far bigger impact than just making your fronts a couple of db's louder. (if that would even happen)

 

[Pasargad]

My bad, I didn't include the subwoofers in my description as I didn't think it mattered regarding speaker connections for this topic! I actually have two subs: a MartinLogan - Dynamo 1100X and an HSU VTF-3 MK5 HP Subwoofer.

Thank you for your suggestion!

 

[dlaloum]

The SR8015 has very good internal amps, and the R700's are a relatively benign load (minimum impedance is 5ohm, 88db/wm efficiency) ...
Based on the speakers and the AVR, I cannot imagine that using an external power amp would provide any benefit... it will add complexity, extra cables, etc... but is highly unlikely to provide any discernible improvement in performance...

Your SR8015 should be well within its optimal performance envelope when matched with the R700's, and extending the envelope with a more capable amp, won't shift the needle....

With less capable, mass market AVR's having more limited power supplies, or driving much more difficult speakers (lower efficiency and with lower impedance troughs.... eg: below 2ohm) - the setup is pushed outside of its design performance envelope, and then benefits can be gained through the addition of an external power amp (which is what I do with my mass market Integra DRX3.4...but I didn't need the external power amp with my earlier Integra DTR70.4... which was a flagship model with more capable power amps onboard)

Having said all that, if you have the requisite time (and energy) - the experiment could be interesting regardless. (yeah, I tried external amps with my old DTR70.4.... and after various experiments, many weeks of listening and trying different amps, configurations, biamping, bridging, etc.... I ended up staying with the DTR70.4 on its own!! .... whereas the DRX3.4 definitely had issues handling the speakers, and as soon as I put external power amps into the setup, it sounded like the DTR70.4 had!)

Good luck, and let us know how you go.

 

[Pasargad]

Hi everyone, I thought to share some info after hooking up the Polk Audio R700.

After unpacking the Polk Audio R700, I connected them to my ToneWinner TW AD-7300 amplifier, using the Marantz SR8015 as my receiver. I connected both the left and right channels, as well as the left and right surrounds, to the amplifier. I couldn't connect the Definitive Technology Cs9080 Center Channel Speaker to the amplifier since the center speaker requires a pre-out connection to the receiver in addition to its regular connection to the center terminal on the receiver. Therefore, I didn't connect the center channel to the ToneWinner amplifier because the pre-out connection on the receiver is already used by the center channel. All other surround back, front highs, ceiling Atmos speakers, and the two subwoofers are connected to the receiver.

After setting up, I ran Audyssey to EQ the system. Something strange happened. The Audyssey calibration ran successfully, and I set all speakers to small with the crossover at 80 Hz. However, when I tried to adjust the tones of every speaker to 75 dB using an SPL meter, I had difficulties matching my two subs to 75 dB. Even when I increased the subwoofer levels on the receiver to +10 dB, they still didn't reach 75 dB. During the initial setup, Audyssey asked me to reduce the subwoofer volumes to 75 dB when the dials were set at 12 o'clock. After calibration, to match the subs to 75 dB, I needed to adjust the knobs on the subs to about 3, which doesn't make sense!

Additionally, I feel the front left and right Polk R700s are a bit boomy due to the built-in down-firing cone. Even with the subs turned off, while the speakers sound okay, they still have a bit of a boomy quality. I ran Audyssey twice with the same results.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

 

[lovinthehd]

Why does your DT 9080 need the pre-out as well as the normal center speaker connection? Some try and use that series of speakers with a subwoofer pre-out but that's often not recommended either. I'd just use the amp or avr amp with the normal speaker connection.

I'm a little unclear on what you did with the subs. Generally the suggestion of a mid-point on the sub's gain control is just a guess, as subs vary. I usually try and set them to more like 78 on initial setup and aim for a trim level of -10 or so; I wouldn't want to try and use +10. The numbers on your sub dials don't mean much except for those subs....

Are your new speakers up against a wall or in a corner?

 

[Pasargad]

The manufacturer recommends the below connection set up:

The Polk R700 fronts are about 1 foot away from the back wall and about 3.5 feet away from the side walls. So they have some room to breath!

At this point, I am not sure what to do? Should I run the Audessy again and this time don't change anything on the sub to match the 75db reference level?

How to turn down the Polk R700 subwoofer boomy effects? Would there be anything in the AVR to change that?

 

[lovinthehd]

Interesting about the recommended center channel pre-out use, don't understand why that would be needed particularly. What happens if you don't use it and use just normal speaker connection?

You mean front wall for the R700 fronts? Maybe pull them out another foot if it is boundary gain giving the boomy sound.

Re-running Audyssey is sometimes a good way to go. I would adjust the gain on the sub to put the resulting trim level around -10 still. Adjusting sub level up 2-5 dB in the avr after Audyssey is something many people do, as they want more bass than the flat response Audyssey aims at. Are you using DynamicEQ or Dynamic Volume?

 

[Pasargad]

Regarding the distance, I meant that the R700 fronts are about a foot from the back wall and about 3.5 feet from the side walls. I can potentially move them another 6 inches away from the back wall. Hopefully, this has a positive effect. If not, and after redoing the EQ with no improvement, I might consider returning the R700s.

The DynamicEQ is ON in the Marantz receiver. Would it be better to disable this feature to help with my issue?

 

[lovinthehd]

Regarding the distance, I meant that the R700 fronts are about a foot from the back wall and about 3.5 feet from the side walls. I can potentially move them another 6 inches away from the back wall. Hopefully, this has a positive effect. If not, and after redoing the EQ with no improvement, I might consider returning the R700s.

The DynamicEQ is ON in the Marantz receiver. Would it be better to disable this feature to help with my issue?

The back wall is behind you. The front wall is where your front speakers are. I prefer DynamicEQ at lower volumes, but have no use for Dynamic Volume at all myself (a dynamic compression routine). I'd continue to experiment with placement and eq for now.

ps Are you using the MultEQ editor app?

 

[Pasargad]

Hi there, I am using the MultEQ editor app for calibration. At the end it was recommended for the settings below:

1. Please set 'Subwoofer Mode' to 'LFE + Main', set 'Bass extraction lpf' to 250Hz!
2. Switch polarity of EACH of your 2 subwoofers!

Can someone advise as how to change the polarity of my subs.
I can not find a physical switch at the back of the subs. Is it something can be done within the AVR settings?

Thanks

 

[lovinthehd]

Hi there, I am using the MultEQ editor app for calibration. At the end it was recommended for the settings below:

1. Please set 'Subwoofer Mode' to 'LFE + Main', set 'Bass extraction lpf' to 250Hz!
2. Switch polarity of EACH of your 2 subwoofers!

Can someone advise as how to change the polarity of my subs.
I can not find a physical switch at the back of the subs. Is it something can be done within the AVR settings?

Thanks

Polarity is usually done via a 0/180 degree phase switch. Who recommended sub mode to lfe + main? Not sure what bass extraction lpf means....