Change my Infinity speakers for Axiom?

[dhernando]

Hi Guys,

I have right now my Infinity Primus p362 floorstanding speakers with pc350 center and 2 p142 for rear channels, my room is small like 5m x 5m, we are talking about more and less $700 for all the speakers.

I'm reading great reviews about Axiom speakers, so my question is, what if I buy the the epic 80 home theater they have ($3,600 aprox.) should I feel a huge different in my room, or you can only feel the difference if you have a bigger room?

Thanks

Diego

 

[brendy]

For $2900 more I would certainly think so.

 

[shadyJ]

The Infinity Primus are terrific speakers for the price. What I would do is hold onto them while you audition the Axioms. If the Axioms are that much better, then sell the Infinities, but if not, return the Axioms. Axiom has a 30 day full refund policy. Personally, I would look at the AV123 rockets over the Axioms.

 

[fredk]

As stand alone for stereo listening I have no doubt that the M80s will sound a lot better, and they should also sound better in a multi channel setup with a sub, but I have never listened to the Primus.

Maybe order up the M80s as a starter and if they sound better pick up the rest of the system. I'm wiling to bet that Axiom will extend the system discount if you do it that way as long as you arrange that up front.

Oh, I would buy the Axioms before the Rockets. Oh wait, I did...

 

[dhernando]

Thanks for your answers! so the size of the room has nothing to do

 

[WmAx]

Actually, if you modify the Primus speakers with very EASY mods, I seriously doubt you will even want to replace them.

First thing is the Primus 360/362 actually has BETTER drives than the Axioms. But, the Primuses are limited by the poor cabinets and average crossovers present. But you can correct a lot of cabinet problem by removing the drivers and placing high quality acoustical dampening material inside the cabinets. You can also place 4 or so layers of Peel N' Seal on the cabinet interiors while you are at it. Use enough of the high quality acoustical dampening in the lower/bass section, and you will also reduce/fix that 100Hz range peak the Primus woofers are tuned to produce. Add a high quality DSP EQ and a pair of high quality subs, and you can really tune in a very good quality sound. I really so no reason to move the Axioms if you do the suggested changes above.

Note: you should also fix the vibrating magnetic shield can problem on the drivers while you have the drivers out. It's an easy fix: use liquid superglue and generously apply it to the gap where the shield cans connect to the drivers. After the glue runs deep into the gaps and hardens, they loose/vibration problem will no longer be present.

-Chris

 

[shadyJ]

Can you tell me a little bit more about these mods? I have some Primus speakers, and if I can make them sound better easily, I would be interested. Is there a website that describes these mods? Where do I get high quality acoustic dampening material and how do I place it inside the cabinet? Is there a easy, inexpensive way to replace the crossover? Any info is appreciated.

 

[WmAx]

Can you tell me a little bit more about these mods? I have some Primus speakers, and if I can make them sound better easily, I would be interested. Is there a website that describes these mods? Where do I get high quality acoustic dampening material and how do I place it inside the cabinet? Is there a easy, inexpensive way to replace the crossover? Any info is appreciated.

The bigger the cabinets, the more effect these mods have... (so the Primus 250/253 and 360/362 REALLY benefit): You remove the factory stuffing. It's heat glued to the sides and bottom. It's a thin poly blanket; absolutely worthless. It does NOTHING in the majority of bandwidth the midbass drivers operate within. Use Owens Corning 703 or 705. Or use 6# or 8# mineral wool board. Use 2" on the sides of cabinet. Use 2" on back, and 4" direcly behind the drivers. Use 6" on the bottom. Place a thin cloth or thin carpet foam over the dampening to prevent fibers from coming loose and coming out the port or entering the driver vent holes. You can cut the dampening to fit tightly inside and not really need to use any glue. But I still recommend using some construction adhesive to secure the top and side pieces. IF you want to do a little more, before you install the new dampening, apply 3-4 layers of Peel N' Seal (available at most Lowes stores), which is similar to Dynamat, but much cheaper. It is best to warm the adhesive side of the Peel N' Seal that attaches to the MDF for the best initial bond. Use a heat gun, or even a hair dryer, if that's all that is available.

Also place about 2-3" of the good dampening in the rear of the mid-range cup. Place the stock acoustic dampening back in the mid-range cup, also.

The dampening will both tighten up and produce more clarity in the mid-range, mid-bass and remove a lot of that bass hump.

The stock crossover is sufficient. You should add a good quality DSP EQ/crossover to get much more control of your sound/tone. The Behringer DCX2496 is my standard recommendation.

Also, be sure the tweeter is at ear height, or angled up to meet the ears by tilting the cabinet back a bit.

-Chris

 

[lsiberian]

The bigger the cabinets, the more effect these mods have... (so the Primus 250/253 and 360/362 REALLY benefit): You remove the factory stuffing. It's heat glued to the sides and bottom. It's a thin poly blanket; absolutely worthless. It does NOTHING in the majority of bandwidth the midbass drivers operate within. Use Owens Corning 703 or 705. Or use 6# or 8# mineral wool board. Use 2" on the sides of cabinet. Use 2" on back, and 4" direcly behind the drivers. Use 6" on the bottom. Place a thin cloth or thin carpet foam over the dampening to prevent fibers from coming loose and coming out the port or entering the driver vent holes. You can cut the dampening to fit tightly inside and not really need to use any glue. But I still recommend using some construction adhesive to secure the top and side pieces. IF you want to do a little more, before you install the new dampening, apply 3-4 layers of Peel N' Seal (available at most Lowes stores), which is similar to Dynamat, but much cheaper. It is best to warm the adhesive side of the Peel N' Seal that attaches to the MDF for the best initial bond. Use a heat gun, or even a hair dryer, if that's all that is available.

Also place about 2-3" of the good dampening in the rear of the mid-range cup. Place the stock acoustic dampening back in the mid-range cup, also.

The dampening will both tighten up and produce more clarity in the mid-range, mid-bass and remove a lot of that bass hump.

The stock crossover is sufficient. You should add a good quality DSP EQ/crossover to get much more control of your sound/tone. The Behringer DCX2496 is my standard recommendation.

Also, be sure the tweeter is at ear height, or angled up to meet the ears by tilting the cabinet back a bit.

-Chris

This sounds like a very simple mod list. The drivers are very good in those speakers.

 

[shadyJ]

Thanks for the tips. Is Owens Corning better than mineral wool board? Is there someplace that would sell this kind of stuff locally, or would I have to order it online? I am going to look at my Primus' this weekend and see what I can do. God I hope I don't screw my speakers up!

 

[gmichael]

I have 7 Infinity Primus speakers. 2 360's, 4 150's and a c25. Is it hard to remove the drivers and install the new Corning? Haven't looked, but are the screws easily accessible?

 

[WmAx]

I have 7 Infinity Primus speakers. 2 360's, 4 150's and a c25. Is it hard to remove the drivers and install the new Corning? Haven't looked, but are the screws easily accessible?

Owens Corning 705 and the 6-8# mineral board have exactly the same acoustical value.

The screws used on the Primus are Torx screws. You will need to get the appropriate screwdriver bit.

It's very easy to access the inside of these speakers.

-Chris

 

[lsiberian]

Thanks for the tips. Is Owens Corning better than mineral wool board? Is there someplace that would sell this kind of stuff locally, or would I have to order it online? I am going to look at my Primus' this weekend and see what I can do. God I hope I don't screw my speakers up!

A local insulation sales place should have some.

 

[blued888]

@Chris/WmAx

If I have a 5-speaker Infinity Primus set, I have to modify all of them in order to sound for the improved sound to be uniform, right?

 

[WmAx]

@Chris/WmAx

If I have a 5-speaker Infinity Primus set, I have to modify all of them in order to sound for the improved sound to be uniform, right?

NO. Just the main Left, Right and Center. The surround speakers are not nearly as important. But you can modify them later on if you want, but the gains will not be as big as you get by modding the front units.

-Chris

 

[jehanzeb]

The bigger the cabinets, the more effect these mods have... (so the Primus 250/253 and 360/362 REALLY benefit): You remove the factory stuffing. It's heat glued to the sides and bottom. It's a thin poly blanket; absolutely worthless. It does NOTHING in the majority of bandwidth the midbass drivers operate within. Use Owens Corning 703 or 705. Or use 6# or 8# mineral wool board. Use 2" on the sides of cabinet. Use 2" on back, and 4" direcly behind the drivers. Use 6" on the bottom. Place a thin cloth or thin carpet foam over the dampening to prevent fibers from coming loose and coming out the port or entering the driver vent holes. You can cut the dampening to fit tightly inside and not really need to use any glue. But I still recommend using some construction adhesive to secure the top and side pieces. IF you want to do a little more, before you install the new dampening, apply 3-4 layers of Peel N' Seal (available at most Lowes stores), which is similar to Dynamat, but much cheaper. It is best to warm the adhesive side of the Peel N' Seal that attaches to the MDF for the best initial bond. Use a heat gun, or even a hair dryer, if that's all that is available.

Also place about 2-3" of the good dampening in the rear of the mid-range cup. Place the stock acoustic dampening back in the mid-range cup, also.

The dampening will both tighten up and produce more clarity in the mid-range, mid-bass and remove a lot of that bass hump.

The stock crossover is sufficient. You should add a good quality DSP EQ/crossover to get much more control of your sound/tone. The Behringer DCX2496 is my standard recommendation.

Also, be sure the tweeter is at ear height, or angled up to meet the ears by tilting the cabinet back a bit.

-Chris

Hi WmAx,
This is a very useful post as I was looking to modify the cabinets of my P362's as well.

Thanks!

 

[jehanzeb]

Use Owens Corning 703 or 705. Or use 6# or 8# mineral wool board.

Where can I buy this stuff ?

Thanks!

 

[WmAx]

Where can I buy this stuff ?

Thanks!

Look for local commercial/industrial insulation contractors. Many will sell this stuff direct, though, you need to be prepared to buy it by the case. Usually 6 pieces of 24" x 48" per case, at least, in 2" thickness. You need to take exact cash; they usually don't deal with cash and won't have change for you.

-Chris

 

[jehanzeb]

Look for local commercial/industrial insulation contractors. Many will sell this stuff direct, though, you need to be prepared to buy it by the case. Usually 6 pieces of 24" x 48" per case, at least, in 2" thickness. You need to take exact cash; they usually don't deal with cash and won't have change for you.

-Chris

Thanks, Chris!

 

[riker1384]

Has anybody actually done this mod, adding better insulation? How easy was it? It look to me like it might be hard to get the stuff in the lower part of the cabinet since you will have to reach in through the woofer hole in the middle, and also work around the bracing.