Change active to passive Sub

walter duque

walter duque

Audioholic Samurai
I have a 400 watt downfiring sub. I was thinking about changing it to passive since I have an extra 350 watts 8 ohms on my poweramp. Would it be worth it, would the driver still be save. How would I do this because I realy don't know where to start. Do I need an external crossover or what? Thanks
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
I have a 400 watt downfiring sub. I was thinking about changing it to passive since I have an extra 350 watts 8 ohms on my poweramp. Would it be worth it, would the driver still be save. How would I do this because I realy don't know where to start. Do I need an external crossover or what? Thanks
Now you have two threads, this, and the one you hijacked! The answer is the same. If your amp will deliver 700 watts into four ohms, and that amount of power won't fry your driver, then yes, go ahead. If the answer to the above is no, then don't waste your time.
 
walter duque

walter duque

Audioholic Samurai
Now you have two threads, this, and the one you hijacked! The answer is the same. If your amp will deliver 700 watts into four ohms, and that amount of power won't fry your driver, then yes, go ahead. If the answer to the above is no, then don't waste your time.
Like I said I highjacked that thread by mistake. Did'n't mean to do that. I would have to check the rating out on the driver. All I have is a picture on the link below, but hat doesn't mean anything. It's the same driver in the downfiring sub.

http://www.sourcespeaker.com/SW12ULT.html
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
Like I said I highjacked that thread by mistake. Did'n't mean to do that. I would have to check the rating out on the driver. All I have is a picture on the link below, but hat doesn't mean anything. It's the same driver in the downfiring sub.

http://www.sourcespeaker.com/SW12ULT.html
That sub does not have the usual class D sub amp, but a class AB amp. I very much doubt your plan would be an improvement.
 
walter duque

walter duque

Audioholic Samurai
That sub does not have the usual class D sub amp, but a class AB amp. I very much doubt your plan would be an improvement.
I don't know much about class D or AB amps, which one is better?
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
The sub amp may have other features that you aren't taking into account (that are not documented in the manual as they are design functions) such as subsonic filters or boosts to get it to sound a certain way. Feeding it a raw signal may push it beyond the intended parameters.
 
Seth=L

Seth=L

Audioholic Overlord
W/out knowing the specifications of that driver it's unlikely you will know what it can and cannot take unless you try it (which may not be worth doing). If you want to build a subwoofer that may be another story entirely, but then the sky's the limit.:D
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Upgrading the amp isn't the way to improve the sound of your sub. Improving bracing and the dampening. Might make true improvements. Try replacing the stuffing with rockwool.
 
walter duque

walter duque

Audioholic Samurai
Upgrading the amp isn't the way to improve the sound of your sub. Improving bracing and the dampening. Might make true improvements. Try replacing the stuffing with rockwool.
The sub sounds great the way it is. It's build top notch. I was just thinking how it would sound with that extra power. Thanks.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
The sub sounds great the way it is. It's build top notch. I was just thinking how it would sound with that extra power. Thanks.
Most Home theater drivers can't take 700watts Plus you would only get a 3db increase in volume. This is just not practical for all the work required. Save your time for something else.
 
walter duque

walter duque

Audioholic Samurai
Most Home theater drivers can't take 700watts Plus you would only get a 3db increase in volume. This is just not practical for all the work required. Save your time for something else.
I am gona leave it the way it is and same my self some problems. It was just a thought.You know how it is always trying to improve the system. It's like there in never enough after a while.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
I am gona leave it the way it is and same my self some problems. It was just a thought.You know how it is always trying to improve the system. It's like there in never enough after a while.
I know what your talking about. My system is already the best in my family by a long shot. Yet even still I want to improve it. :)

DIy is a fun way to improve stuff. have you tried using a BFD on your sub. :)

That would get you nice bass.
 
walter duque

walter duque

Audioholic Samurai
[
QUOTE=lsiberian;586960]I know what your talking about. My system is already the best in my family by a long shot. Yet even still I want to improve it. :)

DIy is a fun way to improve stuff. have you tried using a BFD on your sub. :)

That would get you nice bass.
[/QUOTE]
I don't want to sound stupid but what is BFD?
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
I don't want to sound stupid but what is BFD?[/QUOTE]

Behringer Feedback Destroyer. 1124

It's has a built in parametric EQ and is used by many folks to EQ their subs due to it's low cost high reward.

They go for less than 100 dollas and are a very cheap way to upgrade a stereo system or a subwoofer.

http://www.zzounds.com/item--BEHDSP1124P

The REW software was designed specifically for this device.
 
walter duque

walter duque

Audioholic Samurai
I don't want to sound stupid but what is BFD?
Behringer Feedback Destroyer. 1124

It's has a built in parametric EQ and is used by many folks to EQ their subs due to it's low cost high reward.

They go for less than 100 dollas and are a very cheap way to upgrade a stereo system or a subwoofer.

http://www.zzounds.com/item--BEHDSP1124P

The REW software was designed specifically for this device.
[/QUOTE]
Thanks, I'll check it out, might order one today if I get around to it. I am running basicly 4 subs in a 14'x14' living room 1 downfiring 380 watt- 1 1000 watt 12"active 12" passive and 2 from my powertowers 400 watts 2 8" drivers in each tower. Maybe that's a little overkill or what. It does sound good. Moves the structure of the building and then some, not only in my apartment but the ones next to me too. You think I should tone it down a little. Hope that Behringer helps, cheap enough.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Thanks, I'll check it out, might order one today if I get around to it. I am running basicly 4 subs in a 14'x14' living room 1 downfiring 380 watt- 1 1000 watt 12"active 12" passive and 2 from my powertowers 400 watts 2 8" drivers in each tower. Maybe that's a little overkill or what. It does sound good. Moves the structure of the building and then some, not only in my apartment but the ones next to me too. You think I should tone it down a little. Hope that Behringer helps, cheap enough.[/QUOTE]

It can only manage 2 subs. For four I suggest the swiss army knife of Audio.

The DCX 2496 it has high pass filters, EQ, summing and crossovers.

but it's 3 times the cost.

Home theater shack has an entire section devoted to the BFD

You can even do house curves if you read around enough. :)
 
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