Cabinet glue?

[Jonny Rotten]

I have an old but awesome set of Klipsch KLF 10 speakers.One speaker is separating where the sides meet the back.Sounds fine at low levels but if I Crank it up I get vibrations.If I squeeze the sides against the back panel it goes away.As a contractor I know there are adhesives that are stronger than what there bonding.So my question is:
Is there a specific product meant to bond speaker cabinets?Or should I get a wood adhesive and glue and clamp

 

[KEW]

You're gluing mdf, so standard wood glue works fine. The toughest aspect of the task will be prepping the surfaces for glue (unless the cabinet will come completely apart).

 

[Missionman]

yepp standard wood glue would be fine.. Personally ive always used No More Nails..
Its awesome stuff, i remember i would my friend a bass bin for Mobile DJ use, he dropped it one day as he was attempting to put it in his van.. other than slightly damaging the corner of the wood, it held together perfectly, and still fine to this day.. Very strong stuff imo..

 

[Jonny Rotten]

You're gluing mdf, so standard wood glue works fine. The toughest aspect of the task will be prepping the surfaces for glue (unless the cabinet will come completely apart).

I spoke to klipsch,theres no way of removing the back panel.So I need to glue around back panel perimeter.The thing is the gap is only as wide as a credit card and will be tough to pack the glue in.Im going to put a heavy bead on and then try to pack it in with a spackle knife.(the same way you would spred Spackle on wall).Before I do Id figured Id ask if anyone has any better ideas.If the glue hardens and doest hold im really screwed

 

[Tin Ear]

I spoke to klipsch,theres no way of removing the back panel.So I need to glue around back panel perimeter.The thing is the gap is only as wide as a credit card and will be tough to pack the glue in.Im going to put a heavy bead on and then try to pack it in with a spackle knife.(the same way you would spred Spackle on wall).Before I do Id figured Id ask if anyone has any better ideas.If the glue hardens and doest hold im really screwed

I am thinking if you work slowly (like an inch or two at a time) and pack it in with a small old paintbrush (like a hobby brush found at an art store, not the one you'd paint the side of your house with ), you may have better luck getting more glue actually guided down deep into the slot.

 

[Swerd]

I spoke to klipsch,theres no way of removing the back panel.So I need to glue around back panel perimeter.The thing is the gap is only as wide as a credit card and will be tough to pack the glue in.Im going to put a heavy bead on and then try to pack it in with a spackle knife.(the same way you would spred Spackle on wall).Before I do Id figured Id ask if anyone has any better ideas.If the glue hardens and doest hold im really screwed

Because you have such a narrow opening, consider polyurethane glue instead of wood glue. Gorilla and Titebond both sell polyurethane glues. The advantage with this type of glue is that it expands as it cures, filling gaps like you have. Read the directions, first you have to add a little water to wet the area, then add the glue.

If you had a standard wooden joint that was cut to fit snug, I'd say use standard wood glue, but with gaps, maybe polyurethane glue will work for you.

 

[mtrycrafts]

I spoke to klipsch,theres no way of removing the back panel.So I need to glue around back panel perimeter.The thing is the gap is only as wide as a credit card and will be tough to pack the glue in.Im going to put a heavy bead on and then try to pack it in with a spackle knife.(the same way you would spred Spackle on wall).Before I do Id figured Id ask if anyone has any better ideas.If the glue hardens and doest hold im really screwed

As was suggested and, try to pry it apart a bit more with a stiff spackle blade to see it is gives you more gap to force the glue in.
The other suggestion is a sering needle.

 

[Rickster71]

I've used this for many years. PL 400
It would fill any gaps and is very strong.
Loctite PL 400 VOC SubFloor & Deck Adhesive from Loctite Adhesives

 

[KEW]

See if you can wedge it open using a couple of tooth picks to give your self a gap to work with. I would use epoxy since you cannot really get in to clean the surfaces.
If you are more concerned with a good fix than making it look original, it would be good to put a couple of screws in to clamp and permanently help hold it. Pre-drill so you don't split the mdf.

 

[Jonny Rotten]

See if you can wedge it open using a couple of tooth picks to give your self a gap to work with. I would use epoxy since you cannot really get in to clean the surfaces.
If you are more concerned with a good fix than making it look original, it would be good to put a couple of screws in to clamp and permanently help hold it. Pre-drill so you don't split the mdf.

I was thinking an epoxy like JB weld and believe it has a syringe dispenser.Ive used pl400 on the job and its no joke.But thats a fat bead.This is thin.Ive got some thinkin to do
.
Thanks for all the input..These are my babies and if I do it wrong..Ill be pissed.
By the end of the week I WILL be an adhesive Expert!!!!

 

[KEW]

I was thinking an epoxy like JB weld and believe it has a syringe dispenser.Ive used pl400 on the job and its no joke.But thats a fat bead.This is thin.Ive got some thinkin to do
.
Thanks for all the input..These are my babies and if I do it wrong..Ill be pissed.
By the end of the week I WILL be an adhesive Expert!!!!

The PL400 offers the benefit of being flexible and moving with thermal expansion. This is important over long distances, but for your speaker it isn't a big deal. The PL400 would certainly do a good job. However, epoxy has the advantage of being both an adhesive and a structural material. In the plastics industry we use it for "gluing" polypropylene. Nothing (even epoxy) adheres to polypropylene well enough to make a structural joint. However, by molding groves into the plastic, then gobbing epoxy on so it spans and flows into the grooves, we end up with a solid joint.

 

[Jonny Rotten]

The PL400 offers the benefit of being flexible and moving with thermal expansion. This is important over long distances, but for your speaker it isn't a big deal. The PL400 would certainly do a good job. However, epoxy has the advantage of being both an adhesive and a structural material. In the plastics industry we use it for "gluing" polypropylene. Nothing (even epoxy) adheres to polypropylene well enough to make a structural joint. However, by molding groves into the plastic, then gobbing epoxy on so it spans and flows into the grooves, we end up with a solid joint.

I hooked up up my new receiver and theres no more vibration in the cabinet.It was DEFINETLY there with the old receiver(overbearing)Is is possible the old receiver had an issue with the one speaker output and was underdriving it?Either way Im glad I didnt go gluing when it wasnt needed!

 

[endless ent]

Fix your speaker cabinet

I rebuilt Klipsch KLf 30's. I have used Tight bond II / III on all sorts of wood but Bracing attachment and corner joint sealing is stronger with PL Premium Construction Adhesive. It has plastic qualities, quick enough drying, and viscosity that is ideal for tack and stick. A bit of weight applied during drying is all you need. Just be sure you pry open the joint a bit to get the product fully in the joint. Don't get it anywhere you don't want it to stay. You can mask areas for more cleanliness. just be sure to peel the mask before it dries. Wear disposable rubber gloves. Follow all product instructions.

 

[Mellen00]

I want to make wood cabinet in my new house but i don't know how i could make it if anyone know here then contact here back I will appreciate him on this sharing.