Building a new house!

BMXTRIX

BMXTRIX

Audioholic Warlord
I really think one of the keys is building the home first. If this is a basement setup, then you have many options available to you. But, the key is not getting the walls done I would say.

The key is having an outline of your room, and making sure that the foundation gets built correctly to accomodate for the need of the higher ceiling (potentially) in this location. I don't think a 12 foot ceiling is really unreasonable.

Depending on your 'cool' factor, you could decide the size of the room and then have a sunken foundation at that point. Basically, a step down of several feet to the bottom of the theater. But, then enter at the back of the room at normal floor level, and walk down. Similar to enterring a movie theater from the back of the theater.

Floating rooms I don't think are terribly expensive. It is expensive if you higher a pro company to do all the work, but if you have good labor or DIY then it is just lumber and the rubber feet that the room floats on.

Pricey? How about 10 to 12 theater chairs at $1K a pop. That's the price of the equipment for the theater right there.

I also see the need for a screen in the 120" wide range which leans me to recommending a brighter projector like the InFocus 7205 which is about half the budget for the room's equipment.

Another $1K on the screen, and you are left with about $5K or so for speakers, wiring, and your receiver. It may be worth it to break some stuff into phases a bit, or start looking know for some eBay/Audiogon deals.

ie: You can find a Velodyne HGS-18 subwoofer which will blow you away for under $1,500 sometimes. It is probably a better way to go for that size room, and a few years old means you don't have to break it in yourself. ;)

I remember when a $12,000 budget meant you could afford half of a decent CRT front projection setup and DLP or LCD were words that quickly got you kicked to the curb.
 
David Gaudreau

David Gaudreau

Full Audioholic
Here is an updated more realistic room size.

19ft wide by 28ft in length with 10ft walls. Seats 8 people
and a 120" screen.

Front= Definitive BP7002
Center= Definitive CLR 2500
Side surrounds = Definitive BPVX
Rear surrounds = Definitive BPVX
Sub = Supercube reference
Receiver = Denon AVR-3806
DVD = Denon DVD-2910
projector = Sanyo PLV-Z4
 
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B

bpape

Audioholic Chief
That can be a very nice sounding space. Plenty of volume (cubic footage), plenty of options for tretments. Room for seating to be away from the boundaries, etc.
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
Ethan Winer said:
David,

> Do you thing this room will sound good with the angled corners? <

No, please do not do that! If you angle the corners you will remove the single best places to put bass traps. Leave the corners normal, then put bass traps there. If you like the look of angles, angle the side walls a bit so the room gets wider (and/or higher) toward the rear.

--Ethan

What if he uses acoustic curtain material for that angle with traps behind them? He'll have his angles and the traps too.
 

Buckle-meister

Audioholic Field Marshall
David Gaudreau said:
I'm sorry but what is a bass trap?
Bass traps normally take the form of a panels (typically 2'x4') made from an acoustically absorbant material. Sound bouncing off a room's walls tends to collect in its corners. By placing the absorbant panels, i.e. bass traps, in as many corners of the room as is feasible/practical/affordable, the energy from the reflected sound is absorbed, leaving you to enjoy a far greater proportion of direct sound straight from the speakers to your ears.

That is why Ethan strongly advised you not to mitre your proposed room's corners; they are the optimum position to place bass traps. If you are determined to do so, form the corners from bass traps. Take a look at the acoustics section of Audioholics; it is a good source of material to familiarise yourself with.

You will hear a greater improvement by sorting out your rooms acoustics than by buying any other piece of equipment.

Regards
 
Ethan Winer

Ethan Winer

Full Audioholic
David,

> Here is an updated more realistic room size. <

Much better. But I have to warn you, with the rear row of seats so close to the wall behind, you'll want to make the entire rear wall as absorbent as possible to avoid damaging reflections.

> I'm sorry but what is a bass trap? <

Bass traps flatten the low frequency response and reduce modal ringing which muddies up bass notes. That's why I gave you a link to my Acoustics FAQ above. ;)

--Ethan
 
Ethan Winer

Ethan Winer

Full Audioholic
mtry,

> What if he uses acoustic curtain material for that angle <

Sure, that will work.

--Ethan
 
David Gaudreau

David Gaudreau

Full Audioholic
Ethan Winer said:
But I have to warn you, with the rear row of seats so close to the wall behind, you'll want to make the entire rear wall as absorbent as possible to avoid damaging reflections.

--Ethan

I thought that 3 feet from the back wall was plenty of room from the back seats.
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
Have you considered a THX setup?

Like an M&K one, Or possibly Klipsch? They would fill that room.


SheepStar
 
David Gaudreau

David Gaudreau

Full Audioholic
Sheep said:
Have you considered a THX setup?

Like an M&K one, Or possibly Klipsch? They would fill that room.


SheepStar

What would a THX setup consist of?
 
B

bpape

Audioholic Chief
3 feet is much better than right against the wall for sure. For a multichannel setup, you'll want some absorbtion back there anyway.
 
M

Methost

Full Audioholic
What does a base trap look like when installed in a corner? What is the best way to install the panels?
 

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