Box & Winisd for JL Audio 13.5 W7

moves

moves

Audioholic Chief
I added some measurements to the photo, if needed I thought i could get a piece of 3/4" mdf and cut off the four corners and curve the inside using a jig saw and place one in each corner. Each one would fit between the two existing braces in the middle of each panel, i tried to show this with the blue lines i added. Thanks again
You won't need it. The 2 side panels fit inside the side with the rabbet. These help fit the joint together and are supported by the rabbet on the dadoed panel. The brace that you have already extends from the bottom all the way to the top at centre. So you have 3 contact points on each piece. I think you are good to go. If you're going to do it, I would just double check the 90 degree to make sure that it is accurate.

nice diagram and thanks for the dimensions.
 
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annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
Yup that is the one i got without the mounting hole.
Any thoughts on the bracing, not sure if more is needed. I plan to assemble the box with glue only, need to pick up a few more clamps.
Sorry, lots of family stuff

That bracing should be adequate for the W7. It ties all 6 panels together which is ideal. You could add some additional strips in the corners as well if you wanted to provide additional surface for each of the panels to tie together.
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
I added some measurements to the photo, if needed I thought i could get a piece of 3/4" mdf and cut off the four corners and curve the inside using a jig saw and place one in each corner. Each one would fit between the two existing braces in the middle of each panel, i tried to show this with the blue lines i added. Thanks again

You could certainly do as your mock-up shows if it provides extra peace of mind. It would add more strength though is not a necessity. The minimal extra effort does add extra strength. Not necessarily an audible difference but should help with rigidity.
 
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pjoseph

Full Audioholic
any input on good binding posts for this application i came across the ones linked below i was thinking i could just drill a hole for each through the back but reading more about them it sounds like a plate is also required, not sure if it is 100% needed. I was not sure if the typical speaker terminal with the square plastic would be strong enough since this will be a sealed enclosure.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-bpp-g-premium-binding-post-pair-gold--091-620
 
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Micah542

Audiophyte
I was just wondering if you have made any more progress on this project. I have been wanting to do the identical build myself. I’m finally getting a dedicated sound/theater room set up in a new house and the space is much bigger than anything I’ve had prior and need a serious sub upgrade. I had been kicking around the idea of 2 W7’s and a Crest CA12 for quite a few months now.
 
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pjoseph

Full Audioholic
im embarrassed to say it but its not complete, but i will be starting up again tomorrow.

i paid a local place to cut the circle in one of the front pieces, but it honestly looks like they cut it with a steak knife and i cant use the piece. So now i have to cut a new piece & the circle which is what i was trying to avoid since i hate making the straight cut, this one has to fit between the two ends adding to the fun.

Tomorrow i will be picking up the wood wish me luck.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
im embarrassed to say it but its not complete, but i will be starting up again tomorrow.

i paid a local place to cut the circle in one of the front pieces, but it honestly looks like they cut it with a steak knife and i cant use the piece. So now i have to cut a new piece & the circle which is what i was trying to avoid since i hate making the straight cut, this one has to fit between the two ends adding to the fun.

Tomorrow i will be picking up the wood wish me luck.
You don't know anyone with a router? Pretty easy to cut a hole in the baffle with one even with a home-made jig. Not sure I understand what the straight cut/fit between two ends particularly means, tho....
 
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pjoseph

Full Audioholic
i finally got the front cut to size to replace the messed up one, i plan to use the MDF Ring that ships with the sub along with a flush trim router bit for the cutout.
 
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pjoseph

Full Audioholic
i will post a pic once i figure out how to reduce the file size
 
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pjoseph

Full Audioholic
This one shows why that one cut i talked about earlier had to be accurate.
 

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pjoseph

Full Audioholic
I plan to router the cutout this week. Next i need to figure out how to recess/mount those binding posts, i dont want them to stick out so much
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
Yes, isn’t that the gasket material holding it up until screwed in?
 
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pjoseph

Full Audioholic
I need to check again, im not ready to screw it down yet.

I did a test run at making the cutout for the plate in the back, only issue is the corners are a bit large i believe because the radius of the bit i used was too large. Not even sure if its worth buying another bit to get it perfect, i will sleep on it......

dropped my phone trying to take this pic and it marked up the plate good, maybe from a 1 foot away bad luck i guess.....
 

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annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
I never use plates. I use the long stem binding posts to prevent cutting a large hole in my enclosures. Personal preference though.

The only way to get it perfect is to make your own template. Javad Shadzi has some good videos on how to do this. Otherwise it is pretty close so far.
 
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pjoseph

Full Audioholic
yes that certainly would have been easier but no regrets with the extra work i have created..
 
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pjoseph

Full Audioholic
I finally made the cut on the back of the box, i still need to cutout a square patch for the inside to mount the plate to its just floating in there now.

I wanted to ask if the backside of the plate should be sealed off, like a small box and just drill a small hole for the wire to run into the box with the actual sub?
Since this is a sealed box i dont want to later find out i have an air leak at the plate where the connectors come through ect.... what do you think? or maybe im just looking for more work......anyway im excited to get this part finished so i can finally glue the last two sides of the box, the only downside of having to glue them at the same time is i need a lot more clamps like another 10 I only have 8 so trying to figure out what is the best way to go about that ect.....
 

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annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
You can certainly make a separate cabinet for them, but did you account for that additional volume displacement in your design?

If no, use a non-conductive sealer around each terminal to prevent any leaks once the connections are made to the terminals on the inside of the enclosure.
 

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