<font color='#000000'>Hi David,
Are you planning to bi-amp the speakers through a built-in passive crossover? Normally bi-amping involves using an active crossover between the pre and power amps, and connecting each amp directly to the driver(s) it must control. The whole idea is to have each amp connected directly to the driver, so if you're going through a passive crossover inside the speaker, you're loosing much of the benefit. Also, the active crossover allows steeper crossover slopes, which can be an advantage as well. It may just be that I don't quite understand what it is that you're trying to accomplish, but I'm a little concerned about connecting dissimilar amps to two drivers through a passive crossover. Might work, but might cause problems, depending on the xover design.
Be careful how you connect things. To bi-amp in the conventional manner, get an active crossover, like the Behringer Super-X Pro (under $200), and bypass the crossover(s) inside the speaker itself. Relaize though that this too can cause problems (rarely). I wish I knew more about your speakers. Sometimes loudspeaker designers include things like notch filters in their passive (or active) crossovers, to eleminate peaks in the output caused by such things as cone breakup (for example). If you bypass the internal crossover you *might* be bypassing some needed equalization or filtering.
My system is currently tri-amped, but all the speakers are designed to be operated with active crossovers, and I really don't have any experience in converting loudspeakers with passive crossovers for bi/tri-amp operation. I've done it the other way round, developing a passive xover for a speaker system that was bi-amped during the prototyping, but if I wanted to bi-amp, I'd just leave the passive xover out entirely. Sorry I can't be more specific, but I just don't know enough about your speakers. Have you gotten any response from the manufacrurer yet?
Take care,
Chuck</font>