Best DIY subwoofer in 300-400 dollar range?

[Grimfate126]

Hi. I would like to make my own sub, for fun, and cause my current sub is a $35 P.O.S. my friend got me for my birthday -_-

I have a limited budget, around 300-400. (That means just the driver/amp/anything else hardware wise.) The woodworking doesnt matter, price wise.

I would love it if i could get 25 dB at 90+ SPL. However, this is not necessary. Also, the enclosure cant be more than 2.5'x2.5'x2.5'. (Parents wont let me )

What are some of your suggestions? My room is about 17'x19'.

Thanks

 

[Sheep]

Wait, save, and build the Kappa subwoofer Avaserfi designed.

SheepStar

 

[jinjuku]

Look at the Shiva 12 from DIYCable.com

It's $135 for the driver and here are the build notes for a 3.5cu ft enclosure. All it needs is a Parts Express 17" long, 4" wide, flared port (which happens to be it's standard dimension)

Toss in the OAudio 500 watt BASH plate amp WITH Parametric EQ built in for $229. Or you could wait and scrounge up the money for the Kappa Perfect build.

So you would be at ~$400 with shipping.

 

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

Compared to your current sub you can most definitely build something for ~$300/$400 that will blow it away.
As said above the Shiva-X is an option as well as the Dayton DVC-15, Dayton Reference, Torrent audio XO-12, Mach5 MJ-18, JL Audio(whichever ones you can afford), Tempest-X, etc.
All under $200.
Amps are the Dayton SA240, Bash 300, Bash 500(one from P.E. the other from Oaudio) and the Behringer a500.
All under $200.
Then MDF, screws, feet, stuffing, etc.

Any combination of any of these will give you palpable bass that will leave you with a grin, especially since you built it.

 

[darien87]

Check out the Rythmik Audio 12" kit.

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/DS12.html

It's a little above your price range, but if you save up a bit, it'll be worth it.

 

[annunaki]

Check out the build thread I have going for a JL 13W1v2-4 and the Bash 300 watt amp from Parts Express. It will easily do 110db in room at 25hz if not more. The enclosure is 5.3 cu.ft. net internal tuned to 21hz. Total for the parts if you paid retail would be about $450.00 ball park including materials.

 

[j_garcia]

I'll second the Rythmik kit. Good sounding sub.

 

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

Can those Rythmik kits hang for LFE? Or are they geared maily for music?

 

[j_garcia]

The weird thing about that sub is it didn't really sound like it was going that low, however when I measured it it had response a lot lower than I expected (down to 16Hz, I don't recall the actual readings) It doesn't have the authority that a vented sub does, but it is a good mix between output and clean sound IMO. In other words, it won't rattle your teeth out, but it will go pretty darn low. I took measurements of Darien's sub.

 

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

I don't doubt for one second it sounds great.
Probably alot like the Epik Valor, which I've heard.
I was amazed that a 15" driver with only 350w/RMS "in a sealed enclosure" could be so loud. It was clean as well.

 

[Grimfate126]

im thinking about the Shiva-X 12" or the Dayton RSS390HF-4 15" Reference HF. (the others are way too expensive for me, since this will subwoofer will be in a dorm in a year). as for amp, is RMS the minimum you need? I was thinking about a bash 300. How does this setup sound?

How do i design a proper enclosure? Any recommendations? jinjuku recommended this flare port:http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-352, but im clueless about everything else :/

thanks

 

[Spkr_Bldr]

With the proper servo amp it pushes your budget, but I'd go with the Rythmik/GR servo option. All the enclosure plans are there, and servo technology produces real benefits.

http://www.gr-research.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=141

 

[jinjuku]

im thinking about the Shiva-X 12" or the Dayton RSS390HF-4 15" Reference HF. (the others are way too expensive for me, since this will subwoofer will be in a dorm in a year). as for amp, is RMS the minimum you need? I was thinking about a bash 300. How does this setup sound?

How do i design a proper enclosure? Any recommendations? jinjuku recommended this flare port:http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-352, but im clueless about everything else :/

thanks

First you need to figure out what enclosure size you can accommodate. For people with ample space they don't worry about it, but since you said dorm room...

The nice thing about DIY is you get to reuse components. So you could start off with a small sealed enclosure for the dorm, and then build a larger enclosure when you get a larger place. The other benefit to this, is you get the HEAR the difference and the PRO/CONS of sealed vs ported. Yes sealed subs have their strong points.

A 2 cubic foot sealed box is simply 2'X2'X2' or 1X3X~2.66 or 1X2X4 any thing that comes out to 8 foot when a single L X W X H is totaling 8. Keep in mind the L/W/H is INTERNAL dimension. So take into account your 3/4" board.

So you could turn the sub into a small coffee table/end table to dual use your box.

Enough for one post, see the next one.

 

[TLS Guy]

im thinking about the Shiva-X 12" or the Dayton RSS390HF-4 15" Reference HF. (the others are way too expensive for me, since this will subwoofer will be in a dorm in a year). as for amp, is RMS the minimum you need? I was thinking about a bash 300. How does this setup sound?

How do i design a proper enclosure? Any recommendations? jinjuku recommended this flare port:http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-352, but im clueless about everything else :/

thanks

I will model those two drivers tonight. I will post the pdfs.

 

[jinjuku]

Far as the amp goes, the OAudio 500 watt plate amp fits your budget and has Parametric EQ included. It should be the no brainer considering your available funds.

The 500 vs the 300 is simply going to mean more headroom. That is a good thing.

What kind of workspace and tools do you have access to? I don't want to make too many assumptions. Can you post some more details?

 

[jinjuku]

I will model those two drivers tonight. I will post the pdfs.

TLS Guy, another alternate is the XO-12 DVC from Torrent Audio at $99. Could you model that one as well please? It seems to model closely to the Shiva-12.

It may do what he wants and ease his budget constraints.

Thx.

 

[Grimfate126]

Far as the amp goes, the OAudio 500 watt plate amp fits your budget and has Parametric EQ included. It should be the no brainer considering your available funds.

The 500 vs the 300 is simply going to mean more headroom. That is a good thing.

What kind of workspace and tools do you have access to? I don't want to make too many assumptions. Can you post some more details?

I see where youre coming from, but let me explain my situation:

I dont make any money (mooching off my dad ). Im going to get a job next summer, but theres no way i will wait that long (especially after seeing some of the subs that have been made here ) My dad gave me a 300-400 limit. (However, if i hit 400, he will be upset, since we need the money for other uses, obviously. And ill feel really bad. ) So, i was thinking about getting the cheaper bash 300 for now, and when i make enough money, i will get the oaudio, and probably use both to power two subs. Im hoping you can replace amps, it doesnt sound difficult...

Can a sub be Ok/good without EQ? I think i will be able to deal with not-the-best quality for some time, until i start making money.

As for work space, i have a garage. Plenty big enough. However, i have absolutely no power tools (besides the general drill machine ) I will probably need to spend some money on that as well. I will get my hood cut at the store, and for circles, i have yet to find a good tool that isnt overkill.

jinjuku: how does the XO-12 dvc compare to the shiva? is there a $35 difference? (the shiva apparently has a lower fs, but i dont know what that exactly equates to)

Also, just for kicks, if we get the shiva/xo-12, and mount it well, which commercial models will they compare to? (Just in case i need to convince my dad half-way )

Thanks again

 

[jinjuku]

For $35 you get a little more Xmax (how far the driver will travel) and maybe a little less resonance due to a better basket. It's iffy on whether that will make an audible difference.

The XO-12 DVC is based on the TC Sounds DB500 driver. TC Sounds for a while was a supplier of drivers to SVS Sound. It's a really good driver for $99.

TC Sounds is also out of business unfortunately... But that doesn't mean a good driver is anything less. And before any one posts with a JL or Infinity driver is only X more $$, I am REALLY trying to help the OP stick to his budget and get him a sub he can be proud of.

F3 is the frequency that the sub starts to naturally roll off (that means 'gets quieter'). The lower the F3 means the sub can get lower with out losing 3db of audio volume.

 

[jinjuku]

Just as others turned me on the the JL Audio website for really good information, I will do the same for you: JL's primer on cabinet bracing.

Remember 1728 cubic inches to a cubic foot. So if you had a brace of 24 inches by 24 inches by .75 inches and you cut out a section leaving 1.5 inches all around you would need to figure out that volume and increase slight the size of the box to keep your displacement.

So 24 X 1.5 X .75 X 4 X number of braces would give you the total volume you need to account for.

Assume a 2Cu Ft box sealed: Internal dimensions are 24X24X24.

So each brace is taking up around 27 inches cubed. So a box like that may only need one brace. 27 cu inches isn't much in a sealed enclosure so you most likely wouldn't bother with it.

Alternately, you could just calculate a box that is 2cu ft + the amount of bracing you are going to add and be done with it dimension wise and simply add your bracing.

Example is a 2.5 Cu Ft Box. Simply build it, throw in 2 window braces (more than enough) and don't worry yourself with the exact displacement.

 

[jinjuku]

Far as tools:

Lots of decent quality clamps. 6 will do most likely. You will obviously need them longer than the box dimensions. Wood glue. You will get Home Depot to rip your boards to dimension.

Get a speed square. It will let you check and make sure all your 90 degrees are 90 degrees.

Jigsaw for cutting out your window brace, or get a $60 router and circle jig attachment then you can do round cuts for the driver and the window braces (preferable).

Check out this link on flush mounting.

Extra scrap wood for getting to learn how to use the router. PLEASE READ the user guide for the router.

3/4" round over bit (for rounding baffle edges)
3/4" flush cut bit with bearing (for cutting off any excess overhang wood)
1/2" flush bit (for flush mounting drivers)
1/4" flush bit (for cutting holes)

Safety glasses

I assume you have some form of work bench.