Are These Finds Good Deals?

Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Spartan
Got a reply.

"It was designed for the Dayton audio reference series 15in subs. Each side has 8.9 cubic feet of volume. The port is tuned for 20hz, not folded. The front is double 3/4 in and it has some internal bracing. It's BIG."

Dude sounds like he knew what he was doing, but then got to this part.

"I built the back with a specific amp in mind. It failed after a few months and they stopped making it. So I decided to go with different amps and with a smaller sealed cabinet."

I'm guessing there's a big hole in the back for a plate amp or something along those lines.
Actually, the volume of 8.9 cf is the recommended size by BassBox 6 Pro for the sub, Dayton RSS390HF-4, which I'm using in my HT system. and which Parts-Express are referring to on their site. It has a sensitivity of 91.2 dB. Two of those in a box would have a sensitivity of 94.2 dB and would have a total power rating of 1000 watts (2000 w peak). That could produce a peak SPL of 127 dB at 1 meter!

 
Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Slumlord
Actually, the volume of 8.9 cf is the recommended size by BassBox 6 Pro for the sub, Dayton RSS390HF-4, which I'm using in my HT system. and which Parts-Express are referring to on their site. It has a sensitivity of 91.2 dB. Two of those in a box would have a sensitivity of 94.2 dB and would have a total power rating of 1000 watts (2000 w peak). That could produce a peak SPL of 127 dB at 1 meter!

Wow. That's massive! Even 500 watts would be 124 dB/m!
 
Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Slumlord
I pretty much already shelved the idea of getting that box but now I'm thinking about it again... I know that cab is easily worth 50 bucks if built competently. Well, worth it to someone who could actually use it.

What if I were to use 2 of my extra amp channels from my Monolith? Isn't this a case where bi-amping would actually make a difference? The Monolith is rated for 300 watts at 4 ohms and I have the channels free. That'd be 300 watts per driver instead of 300 for both.
 
Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Spartan
Wow. That's massive! Even 500 watts would be 124 dB/m!
That subwoofer is a killer. When I hear the huge bass drum in a symphonic orchestra, it is in my room and the bass is tight with the good QSC DCA 1222 driving it. I'm sure it can compete with many commercial subwoofers. When someone has heard one of them in a properly designed cabinet, he is not easily tempted in looking for some other product.
 
Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Slumlord
That subwoofer is a killer. When I hear the huge bass drum in a symphonic orchestra, it is in my room and the bass is tight with the good QSC DCA 1222 driving it. I'm sure it can compete with many commercial subwoofers. When someone has heard one of them in a properly designed cabinet, he is not easily tempted in looking for some other product.
Yours are single driver boxes, right? I know that wouldn't change the way it performs in comparison aside from a 3 dB gain with the double. How do you think it'd perform bi amped with 300 wpc?
 
Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Spartan
I pretty much already shelved the idea of getting that box but now I'm thinking about it again... I know that cab is easily worth 50 bucks if built competently. Well, worth it to someone who could actually use it.

What if I were to use 2 of my extra amp channels from my Monolith? Isn't this a case where bi-amping would actually make a difference? The Monolith is rated for 300 watts at 4 ohms and I have the channels free. That'd be 300 watts per driver instead of 300 for both.
Do you have the place for such big cabinet. It's about 7 foot tall.

Yes, with the two Dayton RSS390HF-4s, you would be able to get a very clean SPL close to 125 dB with one of the Monolith amps driving each driver.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
I pretty much already shelved the idea of getting that box but now I'm thinking about it again... I know that cab is easily worth 50 bucks if built competently. Well, worth it to someone who could actually use it.

What if I were to use 2 of my extra amp channels from my Monolith? Isn't this a case where bi-amping would actually make a difference? The Monolith is rated for 300 watts at 4 ohms and I have the channels free. That'd be 300 watts per driver instead of 300 for both.
Remember, the LF Power requirements are more taxing. I don't know where the point of wiping out the capacitance bank on your Amp may occur, but my concern would be that your amp isn't really meant to power 15" drivers.
Not that you will necessarily blow your amp, but that the Amp may not be able to recover from that type of power drain.
You don't need Speaker Power or anything obscene. but taking 2 or 4 channels off your main amp and juicing it completely will leave your mains dry too. ;)

I don't disagree with what Verdi is saying, but his Amps are a little different than yours, and I wonder if the 7-channel Monolith can do it, is all.
 
Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Slumlord
Do you have the place for such big cabinet. It's about 7 foot tall.
*gulp* Yes. Easily. Multiple locations including but not only right up front even, by my mains on either side. I could put it in what I measured is the optimum spot for a sub in my room.
Yes, with the two Dayton RSS390HF-4, you would be able to get a very clean SPL close to 125 dB with one of the Monolith amps driving each driver.
Damnit man! I'm giving this serious consideration now!
 
Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Slumlord
Remember, the LF Power requirements are more taxing. I don't know where the point of wiping out the capacitance bank on your Amp may occur, but my concern would be that your amp isn't really meant to power 15" drivers.
Not that you will necessarily blow your amp, but that the Amp may not be able to recover from that type of power drain.
You don't need Speaker Power or anything obscene. but taking 2 or 4 channels off your main amp and juicing it completely will leave your mains dry too. ;)

I don't disagree with what Verdi is saying, but his Amps are a little different than yours, and I wonder if the 7-channel Monolith can do it, is all.
Okay, okay. That makes some sense too. It wasn't built to be throwing close to max power at sub frequencies.

Plus it's ugly af. Which doesn't bother me too much, but I'm gonna want to at least paint it black. Gonna have to spend... just round it up to 600 bucks for the drivers too. Totally worth it for the performance, but I already have killer performance. I'm only even considering it because I'm nuts, lol. I really don't need ANOTHER subwoofer!

I know, "said no one EVER!" :p
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
*gulp* Yes. Easily. Multiple locations including but not only right up front even, by my mains on either side. I could put it in what I measured is the optimum spot for a sub in my room.

Damnit man! I'm giving this serious consideration now!
FWIW, those Dayton 15" HFs are on my list, too. (I think TLS used the 12" HF in his WAF TL in-wall build.)
I partly see them as the bottom end of a hybrid active/passive 3-or 4-way tower. ;)
@$270 each, it is a stunning option!
 
Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Spartan
Remember, the LF Power requirements are more taxing. I don't know where the point of wiping out the capacitance bank on your Amp may occur, but my concern would be that your amp isn't really meant to power 15" drivers.
Not that you will necessarily blow your amp, but that the Amp may not be able to recover from that type of power drain.
You don't need Speaker Power or anything obscene. but taking 2 or 4 channels off your main amp and juicing it completely will leave your mains dry too. ;)

I don't disagree with what Verdi is saying, but his Amps are a little different than yours, and I wonder if the 7-channel Monolith can do it, is all.
Ryan, don't forget that music or film content signal is transient and does require an amp only to perform at rated power or so for some instantaneous peaks. In the remote possibility that the Monolith is unable to handle the Daytons, then he could just get a QSC amp to drive them such as the DCA 1622:
 
Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Slumlord
Ryan, don't forget that music or film content signal is transient and does require an amp only to perform at rated power or so for some instantaneous peaks. In the remote possibility that the Monolith is unable to handle the Daytons, then he could just get a QSC amp to drive them such as the DCA 1622:
Yeah, the 1622 would be about perfect. I didn't see the price on that page tho. I'm already balking at buying the drivers. They're already more than I want to spend. The potential awesomeness is the only reason I'm even entertaining it.
 
Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Slumlord
My god man. This would make for a 4th big ass subwoofer (the biggest ass-est one yet!) for me, my second double subwoofer, all tuned to right about 20 hz and all powerful af on their own...

A Frankenstein sub combo yes, but all ported and tuned about the same. Phew.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
My god man. This would make for a 4th big ass subwoofer (the biggest ass-est one yet!) for me, my second double subwoofer, all tuned to right about 20 hz and all powerful af on their own...

A Frankenstein sub combo yes, but all ported and tuned about the same. Phew.
How much is dude selling the cabinet for?
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
50 bucks!

And @shadyJ is in that other thread extolling the virtues of 4 or 5 subwoofers!
Dude... that's the price of a single sheet of MDF right now. Good quality Plywood is at least that much too. That cabinet is probably 3-4 sheets depending on how crafty he was.

This is a gut check moment... I'm not trying to talk you into it, but in all possible respect, this is a close call: for the cost of two drivers and some finishing material, you have a potentially killer DIY sub that you didn't build! :p
 
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Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Slumlord
Dude... that's the price of a single sheet of MDF right now. Good quality Plywood is at least that much too. That cabinet is probably 3-4 sheets depending on how crafty he was.

This is a gut check moment... I'm not trying to talk you into it, but in all possible respect, this is a close call: for the cost of two drivers and some finishing material, you have a potentially killer DIT sub that you didn't build! :p
I know, I know... I understand the potential here. It's the only reason I'm even considering it. That's cheap for just the materials for a big sub cab, let alone already cut and put together!

Man oh man oh man. There is possibly a big cutout in the back for a plate amp that'd need patched. Plus it's all the way out in Prescott valley. A coupkemhours drive one way. I'd hate to drive all the way out there and find out it's crap construction. I'm gonna re upload the pic here...

00V0V_bRYEtX23duRz_0t20CI_600x450.jpg


Are the drivers sharing the whole volume or are they sectioned off in the middle? That port in the middle looks like it could be 2 different ports, one for each chamber. If I read him right he doubled up on 3/4" mdf for the baffle.

*Looks like there's some damping material in there too.
 
Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Spartan
Yeah, the 1622 would be about perfect. I didn't see the price on that page tho. I'm already balking at buying the drivers. They're already more than I want to spend. The potential awesomeness is the only reason I'm even entertaining it.
You could get the DCA 1622 for $699 from Socalcinetech. Another good place to verify with is Cinenext. EverettT got his several years ago from them at a good price. This amp is only sold by theater equipment distributors.
 

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