Amp suggestions

[mike c]

yup, I've read the MCA manuals and brochures front to back ...

those additional specs are might have been meant to window dress the THD measurements, lowering the wattage so that they can show a lower THD.

 

[xboxweasel]

Now....the question is....is 20-20kHz <1% THD at 180W into 8ohms (with all channels driven) really that bad? What does that really mean for sound quality?

 

[mike c]

it might not affect SQ, it just has a smaller wattage than comparatively priced amps (or cheaper - like Rotel and Parasound)

 

[mtrycrafts]

I didn't think it matters but it could be one of the reasons why the speaker could take up to 500W (not continuously). I meant it could take 500W, not that it needs 500W.

Well, the low frequency drivers could take such power, certainly not the mids of high freq, 20 watts. Maybe that is why it is rated for that? At times, it is hard to figure the speaker power rating. Another call to the maker which driver will take this?

 

[mtrycrafts]

isn't that like asking a suspected murderer who claims innocence if he killed anyone? (I know I know ... polk is a respected company ... just thinking out loud ... ignore me )

even the B&W 6 series is 8ohms nominal but 3ohms minimum
if that were the case, I'd still be looking at amps that have decent 4 ohm capabilities (even if the speakers really are 8ohms nominal) so you'd have a future proof amp.

How would it look for Polk if Stereopile tested its speakers and rated them as 4 ohms on the bench test? An easy way to find the 'smoking gun' LOL

The reason your amp rated for 8 ohms will drive that speaker with minimum of 3 ohms on it is that the 3 ohms will happen at one or a few frequencies. And, for that fraction of time that the signal passes through that frequency would be rather short in comparison to the rest of the music signal.
But, perhaps, that speaker shortcoming may be enough to cause problems.