amp/speaker pairing . . .

E

el espectro

Audioholic Intern
http://us.marantz.com/Products/1875.asp

powering these?????

Aperion 6B's

Frequency Response (+/- 3dB) 48-20,000 Hz -- (+/- 6dB) 42-22,000 Hz
Impedance 8 Ohms
Sensitivity 82 dB
Recommended Power 50 - 200 Watts
Amplifier Power
Tweeter 1" Audiophile-grade Silk-Dome Tweeter
Midrange
Woofer 6.5" Woven-Fiberglass Composite Woofer
Driver Configuration 2-Way
Enclosure Type 1" HDF, Ported
Dimensions 15" H x 8.3" W x 12.8" D
Weight 26 lbs

Will the Marantz do a decent job?? I don't know that I can afford a 200 wpc separate AND a pre/pro which some have reccomended in another forum.
 
DD66000

DD66000

Senior Audioholic
With those speakers only having an 82db sensitivity and the Marantz only 125w, if you have a large room I'd use at least a 220wpc amp.
 
B

Bugbitten

Audioholic
What he said!

It's all about room size and how loud you like it.

Give us more details and we will have more to speculate.
 
E

el espectro

Audioholic Intern
What he said!

It's all about room size and how loud you like it.

Give us more details and we will have more to speculate.
The room is 19 x 13 with an 8 ft ceiling. I don't listen too loud, but I want the amp to power them properly at the levels I prefer to listen to which are only moderate. I'll be getting a subwoofer soon. Right now, the speakers will be in a 2 channel set-up. I suppose I could try to swing a 2x200 wpc stereo amp, or a couple of monoblocks if a I could get something decent for $600 to $700 used or something, and use a sr5002 as a pre/pro if I have to.
 
Midcow2

Midcow2

Banned
82 efficiency/sensitivty is very low and will require a lot of power

If you haven't bought these speakers yet, you might want to look at more efficient speakers. 82dB efficiency/sensitivity will require a power amp to effectively drive.

See this calculator: 108 db Is a loud volume HT system.
http://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html
 
mouettus

mouettus

Audioholic Chief
In-room, my speakers have a 95db sensivity. If I enter all of the info in the calculator, it says that 150watts will get me 119db: louder than I would want. 250watts goes to 123db. Why would I want more than 150?!
 
DD66000

DD66000

Senior Audioholic
The room is 19 x 13 with an 8 ft ceiling.
That is a bit less than 2000 cu ft.

The results of the cals are with the volume control at zero, which is rated amp power.

In comparisons, my room is 3130~6300 cu ft, depending if the sliding doors to the DR/Kit are closed or open. With speakers of 91db sensitivity.

In my room, not counting subs, I could reach 114db for 5 channels. (220 wpc)
But I also have two back channels driven by the receiver @ 90 w plus 4 subs having a total of 2900w.
But do I play at full volume, no, most of the time it is set @ -20db, depending on source. So there is plenty of reserve for sound effects during movies.
But, concerts on HDNet, their volume is so low that I usually have the volume set @ around only – 6db.
.
 
E

el espectro

Audioholic Intern
So are there other advantages than pure volume/distortion levels? Will the speakers sound more full/better at the same in-room volume with something like the Rotel RB-993 (200 WPC) than with the Marantz? Or is the Marantz fine if it can play cleanly at the volume I want?
 
Z

zumbo

Audioholic Spartan
So are there other advantages than pure volume/distortion levels? Will the speakers sound more full/better at the same in-room volume with something like the Rotel RB-993 (200 WPC) than with the Marantz?
YES, at higher levels of playback.


Or is the Marantz fine if it can play cleanly at the volume I want?
NO, it will not be ably to play as clean as the Rotel at the volume you want, if the volume you want is loud.
 
DD66000

DD66000

Senior Audioholic
So are there other advantages than pure volume/distortion levels? Will the speakers sound more full/better at the same in-room volume with something like the Rotel RB-993 (200 WPC) than with the Marantz? Or is the Marantz fine if it can play cleanly at the volume I want?
Try the Marantz, by itself, first, and if you find you're playing it at or near max, most of the time, then you know you need an external amp.
 
E

el espectro

Audioholic Intern
receiver still runs hot

I'm trying out a pair of outlaw 2200 monoblocks rated at 200watts, but my Marantz SR5002 still feels just a warm/hot as it did when it was driving the speakers itself.:confused:
 
mouettus

mouettus

Audioholic Chief
I'm trying out a pair of outlaw 2200 monoblocks rated at 200watts, but my Marantz SR5002 still feels just a warm/hot as it did when it was driving the speakers itself.:confused:
That's because it is still driving the speakers, even though there is nothing connected to the posts. When you are using the pre-outs, only the signal goes to the amp, but the amp section of your receiver still functions.
 
E

el espectro

Audioholic Intern
That's because it is still driving the speakers, even though there is nothing connected to the posts. When you are using the pre-outs, only the signal goes to the amp, but the amp section of your receiver still functions.
Yeah, that's sort of what I thought might be happening. Seems fairly wasteful. Do any receivers have a "pre/pro mode" that allows you to cut power to the amp that is not needed?
 
jcPanny

jcPanny

Audioholic Ninja
2 channel seperates

I'm trying out a pair of outlaw 2200 monoblocks rated at 200watts, but my Marantz SR5002 still feels just a warm/hot as it did when it was driving the speakers itself.:confused:
My Yamaha receiver (used is pre-pro) also gets very warm after several hours. My emotiva amp barely gets warm driving the 4 ohm HT and distributed audio system.

Unless you can max out the receiver volume and the speakers are not loud enough, then a mid-fi receiver should be fine. However, you should be able to get seperates in your budget. Look for used on Audiogon or check out emotiva. Their stereo pre-amp is currently out of stock, but they have a 350 Watt/channel stereo amp with balanced inputs for $800, XPA-2.
http://www.emotiva.com/xpa2.html
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
That's because it is still driving the speakers, even though there is nothing connected to the posts. When you are using the pre-outs, only the signal goes to the amp, but the amp section of your receiver still functions.
When you are using the pre-outs to drive an external amp, only the external amp is doing the heavy lifting of powering the speakers. The receiver's preamp section will be driving the external power amp but the receiver's internal power amp section will be just idling.
 
mouettus

mouettus

Audioholic Chief
When you are using the pre-outs to drive an external amp, only the external amp is doing the heavy lifting of powering the speakers. The receiver's preamp section will be driving the external power amp but the receiver's internal power amp section will be just idling.
Well my RX-V1800 gets quite hot at "idling". I get your point though. Makes sense. But the fact is that the amp section of the receiver is still on. I'd love to see an option that turns off the amp section, thus saving a lot of energy.

I'd love to do a test by running a music CD with speakers at a certain volume for a certain time and then calculate how much energy it draws versus the same volume for the same time with no speakers plugged in.
 
E

el espectro

Audioholic Intern
another question. what happens to the relevance of the db reading on the receiver once you have a power amp connected? The receiver certainly doesn't know how powerful the amp is, so what good are the numbers? Anyway it seems like when going from 90 wpc receiver to 200 wpc external the audible in room volume at any given db number on the receiver isn't that different (i'll test again tomorrow) Generally speaking, you should not go over 0db on a receiver, right? But when an external amp is involved do those rules change???
 

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