Advice needed on upgrade Yamaha RX-A840 to Yamaha RX-A2A

M

miky80

Audiophyte
I have a Yamaha RX-A840 bought 2014 and I would like to upgrade to enable Dolby Atmos in conjunction with my LG 65C14K oled 2021 tv.

Basically the Yamaha just does the surround sound 5.1 and its connected to NaimNAC202/203 which I use for my Linn LP12,CD player and Antipodes music server.

Was thinking of the of the Yamaha RX-A2A AVENTAGE 7.2-channel AV Receiver as it suits my budget.

Would I notice much of a difference between my 9 year old RX-A840 to the newer RX-A2A.

Advice needed as this would probable be one of my last upgrades.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Did you install Atmos speakers already? What are your 5.1 speakers now?
 
T

Trebdp83

Audioholic Ninja
I wouldn’t recommend any Yamaha below the A4A. The A2A, while well built, has the same feature set of the V6A and TSR-700 for a lot more money.

If you are not going to install height speakers, the new models will do nothing new for you unless you use the Dolby Atmos Height Virtualization feature with a 5.1 configuration.

Should you game on a next gen game console, the Yamaha A2A and lower models have HDMI ports limited to 24Gbps while the A4A and up features 40Gbps ports.
 
M

miky80

Audiophyte
They are set up =
Front Naim Allae connected to Naim amp

The rest are connected to the Yamaha =

B & W 2000 IFS Centre Speaker
B&W Subwoofer ASW610
Rear JPW ML 310
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
I don't understand your answer Basically I want something to drive the sub,centre and rear speakers.

And the Naim just handles 2 channel music!
Any avr can drive your mains and center and surrounds....to what extent is a question. I can't imagine the Naim being worth keeping, tho.
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
Would I notice much of a difference between my 9 year old RX-A840 to the newer RX-A2A.
Difference in terms of Dolby Atmos? Yes. :D

Difference in terms of Stereo or Dolby Digital 5.1? No.
 
T

Trebdp83

Audioholic Ninja
Even when using 5.1, there are some who prefer their old Pro Logic II up mixer to the new Dolby Surround up mixer after upgrading to a new unit. The new unit will attempt to provide height effects when engaging Dolby Surround with Dolby Speaker Virtualization ON.

When playing Dolby Atmos tracks with a 5.1 speaker configuration, Dolby Speaker Virtualization must be ON for processing of the Atmos metadata to output height effects from the five speakers. Yamaha does not support DTS Virtual:X so the DTS Neural:X upmixer will require actual height speakers to work. The virtual height speakers won’t be applicable if adding height speakers to a new unit and using a 5.1.2 configuration.

If considering a new Yamaha, specifically the A4A, I wouldn’t bother with additional processing and amplification by external devices for two channel output. Why some think a new receiver is worthy of Surround processing and amplification duty but not suited to two channel music duty perplexes me. Though, I do understand wanting to continue to make use of expensive components.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Even when using 5.1, there are some who prefer their old Pro Logic II up mixer to the new Dolby Surround up mixer after upgrading to a new unit. The new unit will attempt to provide height effects when engaging Dolby Surround with Dolby Speaker Virtualization ON.

When playing Dolby Atmos tracks with a 5.1 speaker configuration, Dolby Speaker Virtualization must be ON for processing of the Atmos metadata to output height effects from the five speakers. Yamaha does not support DTS Virtual:X so the DTS Neural:X upmixer will require actual height speakers to work. The virtual height speakers won’t be applicable if adding height speakers to a new unit and using a 5.1.2 configuration.

If considering a new Yamaha, specifically the A4A, I wouldn’t bother with additional processing and amplification by external devices for two channel output. Why some think a new receiver is worthy of Surround processing and amplification duty but not suited to two channel music duty perplexes me. Though, I do understand wanting to continue to make use of expensive components.
So true! If people invest a couple hours and less than $100 on an A/B switch to do a blind test they will save themselves a lot of money on those expensive components such as separates, or worse, the silly integrated amps that almost never do audibly better than mid range AVRs. I have done those AB test and by having an AB switch permanently connected, after days, I am100% sure even my cheap $79-$89 Fosi Audio V3 amp sounds exactly the same as my other much more expensive amps.

After doing many of such comparisons, I have already given my Bryston and Parasound Halo amps, though I will keep my remaining separate preamps/amps, mainly as I still have use for them and just don't feel like given away everything so soon.

1701000632046.png
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Would I notice much of a difference between my 9 year old RX-A840 to the newer RX-A2A.

Advice needed as this would probable be one of my last upgrades.
In pure direct mode, you won't likely notice a difference if you don't look, otherwise I suspect you will notice a difference because of the different DSP hardware and software.

If this is you last upgrade, I would highly recommend you stretch your budget a little and go for the A4A. Also, unless you must stick with Yamaha, the Denon AVR-X3800H now is on sale for $1,299.

It is a much more future proof than the A4A.

Denon AVR-X3800H (105W X 9) 9.4-Ch. with HEOS and Dolby Atmos 8K Ultra HD HDR Compatible AV Home Theater Receiver with Alexa Black AVR-X3800H - Best Buy
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
@PENG I had discovered all those high-powered amps I had accumulated over the years were really a waste of money spent. When that money should have been spent on where it would have given me the most Improvement in sound quality my front L/R speakers throw in Center channel for surround sound.

By chance really, I decided to add an A/B switch so I could use both my AVR and a 2.1 channel Stereo receiver, for just use of my front L/R and Sub if I wanted to use the Sub at all for 2.1 with the 2 channel Stereo receiver. I discovered at the volume of very high output was only when those added amps came into good use. Sure you have a huge room, front main speakers with a low impedance dip or you went the full Monty, with Dolby surround, added amps more than likely will be needed.

Back to the future :) Speaking for myself, Choosing an AVR to pull double duty 5.1/2.1 or what ever mode of Dolby surround is a personal choice. Were tradeoffs for me at this point.
@Trebdp83 made valid points, some don't use the DSP Processing at all with an AVR. For a true 2 channel use for music, much better options as you have stated in your post.
Absolutely true that for a large room, sitting > 4 m from speakers with <90 dB/2.83 V especially if phase angles are relatively high in the wrong place, high power amp such as >=300/500 WPC will make a difference.

People just need to keep in mind the following:

- Each time power output doubles, SPL at the mlp increases by only 3 dB.
- Each time the distance is double, SPL drops by 6 dB, yes there are some room gain but that varies and mainly apply to the bass frequencies.
- For speakers with 86 dB/2.83V/m, SPL will be 6 dB lower than speakers, such as many popular Klipsch models and some Focal's that have sensitivity 92 dB/2.83V/m.
- Those who regular listen to loud SPL, say at reference, compare to those who are happy with listening to 10 dB below reference, will need 10 times more power.
- Speakers with phase angles > say 30 degrees, combined with some of the conditions above, could cause their AVRs and/or those 100-120 W integrated amps to overheat.

Based on above, it is silly for people to keep talking about need high power amps because of their 4 ohm speakers, when there are quite a few more factors that have the same and often more impact that they need to take into consideration. There are just so much misconception in the audio world. The only way to simplify thing is for everyone to go get a Mc1kW (minimum) power amp for whatever 4 ohm difficult to drive speakers, then we don't need the weekly forum questions.:D

So yes, the sayings that most people don't realize how little power they actually need, and most people don't realize their amps clip a lot more often than they realize are both true.

In other words, in many cases, >300 W/500 WPC power amps can help improve sound quality, but many cases they don't.
 
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