Adding sub to car. Just used an exposed seat bracket bolt for ground?

[jinjuku]

I guess just sand away the paint and solder an eyelet on the ground strap... I don't see anything in the manual about a purpose build grounding point in the back of the car.

 

[lovinthehd]

I don't have my sub grounded except thru it's amp....not sure what you're situation is.....

 

[jinjuku]

Run positive from battery (with fused link) to amp. Amp ground to chassis for return. Connect sub to amp as per usual.

 

[lovinthehd]

This a relatively old system or something new and trying to use gear not factory spec'd?

 

[jinjuku]

This a relatively old system or something new and trying to use gear not factory spec'd?

Kenwood Double DIN Excelon, JBL 621F X4 for the doors, Audiocontrol 1" domes X2 for tweeters, Pioneer TS-WX-106B sub. Boss AMP.

Nothing crazy. Just the sound system in the beater sucks.

 

[lovinthehd]

Kenwood Double DIN Excelon, JBL 621F X4 for the doors, Audiocontrol 1" domes X2 for tweeters, Pioneer TS-WX-106B sub. Boss AMP.

Nothing crazy. Just the sound system in the beater sucks.

So what's the particular ground issue?

 

[jinjuku]

Just if that's going to be adequate for grounding the amp. I guess I'll find out in a few days.

 

[j_garcia]

Maybe not the seat or seatbelt bolts lol. But something in the area. I just found a spot along the center console that was missing a bolt, sanded the spot and used that.

 

[jinjuku]

Maybe not the seat or seatbelt bolts lol. But something in the area. I just found a spot along the center console that was missing a bolt, sanded the spot and used that.

Seat, not seatbelt...I'll know more when I get into it. I can test easily enough with a multi-meter.

 

[highfigh]

I guess just sand away the paint and solder an eyelet on the ground strap... I don't see anything in the manual about a purpose build grounding point in the back of the car.

Make your own grounding point, but measure the resistance between that point and the battery negative. Not the point where a ground wire attaches to the body and through the wire that can't handle the added current of additional amplifiers, AT the battery terminal. If the battery uses the studs for side terminals, use new studs that can accept accessory cabling terminals, on BOTH positive and negative.

By "solder an eyelet on the ground strap", are you referring to one of the braided connections between the engine/body or at different parts of the body to the frame? Nope- those are bonding conductors- there's a difference.

I installed literally thousands of power amps in cars, trucks, boats, etc- the resistance between the ground AT the amp needs to be less than about .1 Ohms if you want to avoid alternator noise. Also, make sure that ground isn't between other ground points and the battery- if it shares a path with other electronics/electrical devices, it can pick up noise.

If the amp(s) added use more than about 20A, increase the wire gauge for the ground wire that connects the body to the battery- the one from the factory is sized to handle the loads from OEM electrical devices, not much more.

 

[highfigh]

Run positive from battery (with fused link) to amp. Amp ground to chassis for return. Connect sub to amp as per usual.

Fuse on the + cable should be 6" from the battery terminal.

I have seen cars that burned because someone decided that "It has a fuse on the amp- it'll be fine" and I have also seen cars with 4ga power wire attached to the + terminal clamp without a ring terminal of any kind, passing along the front fender, over the edge of the sheet metal to the front edge of the door and behind the trim, again ON the edge of the sheet metala, then to the amplifier. No fuse, no wire look, nothing to make it safe. That was a fire waiting to happen until I looked at it and immediately disconnected the power cable and refused to work on it if I couldn't make it right.

 

[jinjuku]

Make your own grounding point, but measure the resistance between that point and the battery negative. Not the point where a ground wire attaches to the body and through the wire that can't handle the added current of additional amplifiers, AT the battery terminal. If the battery uses the studs for side terminals, use new studs that can accept accessory cabling terminals, on BOTH positive and negative.

By "solder an eyelet on the ground strap", are you referring to one of the braided connections between the engine/body or at different parts of the body to the frame? Nope- those are bonding conductors- there's a difference.

I installed literally thousands of power amps in cars, trucks, boats, etc- the resistance between the ground AT the amp needs to be less than about .1 Ohms if you want to avoid alternator noise. Also, make sure that ground isn't between other ground points and the battery- if it shares a path with other electronics/electrical devices, it can pick up noise.

If the amp(s) added use more than about 20A, increase the wire gauge for the ground wire that connects the body to the battery- the one from the factory is sized to handle the loads from OEM electrical devices, not much more.

It's a $80 Boss sub amp 550 watt 4 ohm. And the rest is the Kenwood head unit.

How have you made your own ground point typically?

I was planning on soldering an eyelet on the amp ground cable, wire brush around the seat bolt, and attach there.

Inline fuse on+ in engine bay.

Where do you go through the firewall typically

 

[jinjuku]

To clarify do you run a ground return all the way back to the battery?

 

[j_garcia]

To clarify do you run a ground return all the way back to the battery?

Not necessary usually, and shorter is better for ground.

 

[highfigh]

It's a $80 Boss sub amp 550 watt 4 ohm. And the rest is the Kenwood head unit.

How have you made your own ground point typically?

I was planning on soldering an eyelet on the amp ground cable, wire brush around the seat bolt, and attach there.

Inline fuse on+ in engine bay.

Where do you go through the firewall typically

Show the amp's model number- I can guarantee it's nowhere near 550 W. What size of fuse is on it?

 

[highfigh]

Not necessary usually, and shorter is better for ground.

The ground path includes the body, but I agree that shorter ground wires are good.

 

[highfigh]

To clarify do you run a ground return all the way back to the battery?

Grounding, including the recommendatin for 'star grounding' needs to be measured. Star grounding isn't a topology, it all needs to be equipotential.

 

[jinjuku]

I'll measure resistance from the seat bolt. If it plays it stays.

And I have no doubt the $80 Boss sub amp is not going to hit 550 watts. Just has to be better than what is in there.

 

[TLS Guy]

I'll measure resistance from the seat bolt. If it plays it stays.

And I have no doubt the $80 Boss sub amp is not going to hit 550 watts. Just has to be better than what is in there.

Just remember voltage is low, and current will be high. Heating effect is square of the current times resistance. So you do need heavier cables than you might imagine. What is the vehicle and does it have a digital regulator? Digital regulators have been around for a long time now, and equipment not designed for them give you a dreadful buzz.

 

[jinjuku]

Just remember voltage is low, and current will be high. Heating effect is square of the current times resistance. So you do need heavier cables than you might imagine. What is the vehicle and does it have a digital regulator? Digital regulators have been around for a long time now, and equipment not designed for them give you a dreadful buzz.

It's a 2011 Sorento. I have 8AWG. This is not a high power setup by any means. Just a refresh with a bit more oomph. I'm $700 all in for head unit, 7 speakers, amp, wiring and inline fuse.