5.1 Speakers under $1000

[seeburt]

I'm trying to purchase my first set of 5.1 speakers and hoping to keep it under $1000. I just picked up an Onkyo SR707 and would like to start putting some milage on it. I have no prefernce to standing or bookshelfs, but if they are bookshelf-type I guess I will need to account for stands. I will primarily be using this for HT.

My room is @16x16 with 9' ceilings. I have 3 walls, with my left side open to my kitchen and dining room.

Thanks,

seeburt

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

I'm just too lazy to give all b-s about you have to listed for speakers for yourself.
but long story short (PLEASE READ A LOTS OF POSTS ABOUT IT HERE)

http://www.svsound.com/products-sys-sbs_black.cfm

would be good choice at $799 Year end pricing...

 

[JerryLove]

Cut-in-paste from one of the dozen other times I've responded to this question this month, but read through and you'll get the gist (3-pair 2030p ($400)+ 2 subs ($300) +CX crossover ($70) plus an external amp for L/R channels = 6.0 happiness.)

Start with a pair of 2030’s ($130). This gives you stereo. As soon as possible, add at least a single sub ($150). At this point you have decent 2.1 sound. If you need surround ASAP, this is where I would add the “whatever I can get cheap” mentioned above.

If you are having problems with center sound: I would next get a second pair of 2030’s and use one as the center. If you were interested in 7-channel (the rear 2 channels are not stereo), then this can later be used as a rear surround.

Next get a second subwoofer. If your AVR has only 1 sub-out, you can use a cheap y-cable. You now have 2.2 /3.2 (or 4.2/5.2 if you used cheap surrounds)

Next you need to track down an external crossover. They are something like $70 new (Behringer CX on Amazon). Plug the L/R pre-out on the AVR into the crossover. Split the L/R signal at around 90Hz. Unplug the subwoofers from the AVR and plug them into the LF L/R out on the crossover. Plug the HF on the crossover into either the pre-in on the AVR, or the inputs on your amp, and plug the L/R 2030’s into the amp.

Place the L/R speakers within a couple feet of their respective SW counter-parts (on top of, perhaps with a short but steady stand works). Tell your AVR that you don’t have a sub and that your L/R speakers are full-range.

You now have 2-channel full-range. You also have surround with stereo subs.
Next buy two more 2030’s and replace your surrounds. Use the extra from your center, or your old cheap surrounds as rears (if you are running 7 channel).

 

[seeburt]

Jerry,

I see what you mean by cut and paste being needed! Thanks for taking the time to help another "noob". I did a forum search for 2030 because I didn't know what it was and came across quite of few of your posts for this subject. Maybe you could make a noob post that goes over this entry/buget level setup. Just my opinion.

If I wanted a more traditional center chanel for "looks", could you recommend one that might be a good match with the B2030P's? Being totally new to this area I'm going to push your patience and ask for your suggestion on stands?

THANK YOU!

seeburt.

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

Jerry, Just curious - i never really used balanced connectors in home environment, I noticed 2030p got regular 3 way posts, but CX got all balanced ports...

 

[JerryLove]

Jerry, Just curious - i never really used balanced connectors in home environment, I noticed 2030p got regular 3 way posts, but CX got all balanced ports...

The connection to the 2030p isn't a problem (that's speaker wire).

The adapter for RCA-XLR is about $5. On the DCX (and I belive on the lesser crossover I'm recommending, but I'd need to check), the lower voltage of the RCA line is recognized and adjusted for automatically (+6 db I believe). Connecting the crossover to the external amp could be a problem if the amp doesn't use XLR connections. You would need to adapt down, possibly including the voltage.

My recommendation, therefore, is to use an external amp that takes XLR connections. The Yamaha pro line does and is inexpensive, and available used.

*edit*
It occurs to me that you might be thinking of the Daytons. Those would need the XLR converted back to RCA.

I *think* this all is a non-issue. The difference (once the connector is adapted) is mostly aplitude. The RCA signal is something like -6db to RCA. For the Dayton, this should just be passed right through, and since the source and desitnation are both RCA-signal, no problem. For the L/R speakers, with a non-pro amp same thing. With a pro amp, you may need to raise the gain on the amp to compensate.

I'm actually annoyed, having given this advice, that I cannot do the neccessairy experimentation to give a concrete answer. I know in a worst-case, there are XLR-RCA adapters that adjust the gain, but that would incur some noticeable cost.

 

[JerryLove]

I see what you mean by cut and paste being needed! Thanks for taking the time to help another "noob". I did a forum search for 2030 because I didn't know what it was and came across quite of few of your posts for this subject. Maybe you could make a noob post that goes over this entry/buget level setup. Just my opinion.

It's a setup that I originally saw recommended by WmAx. After looking at that recommendation, and the measurements on the 2030, and then playing with some, and some similar discussions (such as Roger Russel's essay on stereo subs), it's become my first, normal recommendation up to a couple thousand.

If I wanted a more traditional center chanel for "looks", could you recommend one that might be a good match with the B2030P's? Being totally new to this area I'm going to push your patience and ask for your suggestion on stands?

I can't help you with stands. The only commercial stands I have any experience with I don't recommend. Something stable, heavy (sand fillable is a common way to do that) and that lets you mount the speaker with vibration isolation (and preferrably that has carpet spikes if you are using it on carpet).

Because the 2030p is designed for studio work: there is no deliberately-designed center to match it. So again, sadly, I don't have a recommendation I can give.

I have seen some other posters on some of those threads respond with alternate suggestions to the 2030p's, and I've no reason to believe those suggestions were anything but good. If you want a "traditional" center, you may want to go look at some of the other suggested bookshelves, as I assume at least some are from HT companies.

You should be able to do the rest of the setup the same way with non-behringers. Just rememner that the subs aren't going to perform well above 150Hz, and so you would not want to follow my advice with a very small set (micro speakers).

Also, as BoredSysAdmin points out, the crossover does use XLR connectors... so if you are going to follow my recommendation, Remember that you may need some RCA/XLR converters.

 

[JerryLove]

One last note: If the external crossover setup is sounding complex... or something to not tackle right away: these are still good speakers for 5.1 and would let you play with it later.

And again, if you hunt some other threads, you'll find more posters with other bookshelf suggestions. I have my reasons for suggesting the 2030p instead of something else (I had to pick something, and these had the best sound), but that in no way means that the others are not also excellent options.

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

I'd go in this order : first get 3 pairs for 2030p and one Dayton sub
Furure upgrades:
Second sub
Stand Alone to power L/R
stand-alone bass-management

Thanks for you answers Jerry !!

And remember kids - if WmAx give his word of approval on this setup - its equals to skies opening wide open and voice from above tells to do it - you jump and do it.

 

[seeburt]

BoredSysAdmin and JerryLove-

I just wanted to say thanks for your help, ideas and recommendations. It's tough for a noob to come in here and want to learn a little, but have not idea on where to start. A couple of other places I stopped to post were not as "welcoming". There are so many choices, and yes I know it comes down to personal preforance, but I wanted to make a some what "educated" choice. I don't know much (lets get it right...nothing, nada, zip) about crossover or dbs, but I think I'd like to learn.

I'm going to make a stop by my local Frys and BB(again) and listen to what's on the shelf. Maybe something will tickle my fancy within my price range or maybe I'll give Behringer a call, mostly I just wanted to say...

THANKS!

seeburt

 

[KEW]

The above recommendations are very good. A couple of points to be made are that these are great sounding, but not speakers "for show" and, as with many studio monitors, I do not believe a grill is provided.
To get this level of quality sound at this price, something has to give, and most of us are happy to sacrifice some cosmetics.
I wouldn't want you to be surprised/disappointed on this count. If you want highly polished veneers or piano gloss black, let us know and be prepared to open your wallet a bit wider!

 

[seeburt]

KEW-

Thanks. I had found out that they came without covers. I know my wife would probablly raise her eyebrowe because of this and the overall look. I'm still keeping my eye and ear open.

seeburt

 

[bandphan]

IMHO the SVS and Ascend packages right now are no brainers for starter systems (at the sale prices even better) and have decent WAF and paired with a mid level receiver will provide alot of fun for a home theater.

 

[sholling]

IMHO the SVS and Ascend packages right now are no brainers for starter systems (at the sale prices even better) and have decent WAF and paired with a mid level receiver will provide alot of fun for a home theater.

I have to agree with this. It's awfully easy to over think this and a good quality package from a respected speaker builder is a great place to start when funds are limited. You can always go back in a few years (if you have the desire) and upgrade the mains and center - recycling the old mains and center to the master bedroom with a new small sub.