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They aren't but they are trying to penetrate the market by basically selling at cost to create buzz until users start spreading the word. I fear this may backfire by having people devalue the product b/c they are inexpensive. We shall see.

Actually these speakers use the identical driver to the 41-SE but with the improved cone material. I believe the tweeter may be slightly different but comparible. They should compete and in some areas exceed the performance of the 41-SE Signature product. Very exciting especially considering...

Yes the Outlaw is a very good sub. It may in fact have more output at lower frequencies than the EMP but the EMP aesthetically matches the rest of your system. This is something to consider as well. Personally I'd get 2 subs if you could swing it. I recommend reading...

This is a problem with most multi channel equipment. If you recombine the LFE bass into the main channels, it can overload those channels. The newer Dolby spec mandates this I believe. Even when bass from LFE is recombined into the mains, its done at a reduced level. I first experienced this...

This is NOT common and its quite expensive. I believe TAD also uses this cone material. It is lighter than aluminum so it potentially has advantages. I believe the new Status Acoustics stuff RBH will be making in the future will be using the very same cones. Regardless of how good/bad the...

225 watts Bash power is typically about 2X double of a real world continuous rating. You realize a tweeter also can go down to 10Hz? An extension spec is meaningless without knowing how much SPL it can do at that frequency. There is nothing magical about it. Looking at the specs between...

Guys; I was running some of the Spears/Munsil Wedge tests at various cadences tonight and was shocked to find the A1 fail many of them. When I came to the 32322 test, not only did the A1 fail, but it locked the player up and spit garbled characters out even when I power cycled it. I had to...

I am no expert on tube amps. I recall older tube amps often need tube replacements every few years but you may want to check with RBH about that. It would be interesting to hear your impressions coming from a computer system. I plan on reviewing the set in a similar fashion as I am...

The sub doesn't magically stop producing bass below its rated -3dB point. Thus you will still have usable bass response down in the 20Hz region, but it will be tapered off based on the natural roll off of the driver and enclosure system. The 150watts is a continuous power rating. Most sub...

Can you list the equipment you connected via HDMI? I informed Denon and they want to know more so they can try to reproduce it.

Parallel Wiring: Run one speaker cable from the left amp channel to your left speaker. Run another speaker cable from the left amp channel (spliced with the left speaker cable) to the left input of your sub do the same for the right channel Series Wiring Run one speaker cable from the...

Yes I meant speaker level connections. Parallel means the speakers still get full range as does the sub and you use the sub LPF xover to limit its range. Series means the sub gets full range which you limit with its LPF, but the speakers bass is limited based on the subs HPF setting. This...

Do you have the piece that broke off? If so, you could use a touch of wood glue to get it back on. Otherwise, I'd try put a dab of wood filler on it, and get a local hardware store to make up a small can of glossy paint to touch it up. Post a pic here so others can see.

I don't see why you can't at least do it speaker level either connecting the Sub in parallel or series with the speakers and using the subs HPF for the speakers. I'd try it in parallel first and if you feel the speakers can't handle the bass, then apply the bass management of the subwoofer.

You should be ok in a small to medium sized room but if you desire very loud listening levels, you should consider an amp from Emotiva whom IMO offer the best bang for the buck. Make sure your receiver has preamp outs if you go that route otherwise you may need to upgrade. Most of the time...

They are shipping me this system next week for review but I gave them no guarantees of returning it after my review is completed :)

If you are only running 2CH that is fine but be careful if you're running 5.1 as if you set the Xover for the sub too low, you will truncate LFE info.

Its kinda an inside joke between Paul and myself. I used to be a math major when I went to school to actually become an Electrical Engineer and I had a math teacher that always used to say "check your maths". Its kinda a slang among geeks I suppose.

I got an answer back from Japan regarding D.link and simultaneous HDMI outputs. Dlink attaches to one or the other HDMI, in the setup menu you need to assign DL to the HDMI you want. Just tested our setup with AVP, DVD (HDMI #1 with DL) and another component connected via HDMI #2 out of the...

they are more like 41-SE/Rs as they use a 4" woof instead of a 6" found on the 61-SE/R. Insane deal even without the amp. I want a pair to use as computer speakers :)