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I've spent a LOT of time with the vision soundbar and can happily say that it isn't "mass market junk" at all. Crystal clear highs and excellent imaging make it one of the best soundbars I've heard. My only gripe with it is that the amplifier isn't powerful enough. I spoke with one of the VPs at...

Are there companies still using Walker and Pass's design? That sounds very interesting and worth reading about.

Very lucid articles. Thank you much.

Here's the scenario: I have a set of B&W CM5s and a that I intend to eventually use as rears with the CM9s as my FR and FL, and the CMC2 as my center. Currently, I have no trouble driving my bookshelves with my Marantz SR6006 and am very pleased with the way they sound. I'm just looking towards...

From my understanding, a class A amplifier will double its wattage output with each doubling of impedance. I.E. if it puts out 100 watts at 8 ohms it will produce 200 watts at 4 ohms. Is there a similar formula for class B, A/B, and D amplifiers? I ask because some amplifiers, specifically the...

Adria Power cable - 1 million dollar Masterpiece! - YouTube You kinda have to love their gall. Take a look at some of their other options. They look like they were made in someone's garage.

The DAC in many blu ray players can rival some of the best standalone DACs that I've heard. Last year's Panasonic BDT500 had an excellent 32 bit Burr Brown DAC, the DAC in the Oppo is, of course, excellent, and the Cirrus DAC in my Marantz UD5007 has treated me very well. I have another setup...

Amazingly, it didn't come with an instruction manual but I did find some diagrams on Panamax's website. Looks like the AVR, Base Station, TV, and DVR should be in Bank 1. The Turntable and Disc Player should be in Bank 2, and the Subwoofer should be in Bank 3...

I have a Panamax MR5100 that features three isolated banks. I'm wondering which components I should be plugging in to which banks (and why). Here is a list of what I have: Marantz SR6006 AVR Marantz UD5007 Disc Player Marantz TT-15S1 Turntable B&W PV1D Subwoofer URC MRF-260 RF Base Station...

Can I assume from the Audioholics review of the B&W CM8 loudspeakers that my CM5 bookshelf speakers are also a 4 ohm speaker (even though B&W lists them as 8 ohm on their webpage)? How does this affect which amplifier I should be using to drive them? Currently I have them bi-amped with a Marantz...

I have a Marantz SR6006 with a set of Bowers & Wilkins CM1 bookshelf speakers and just got the Bowers & Wilkins PV1D subwoofer. I'm not sure what the best way to hook it up would be. If I wanted to do a full range connection instead of a Mono connection, would I use the front R&L connection on...

Thanks for the clarification.

Is it possible for a low inductance 15 gauge speaker cable to outperform a 10 gauge zip cord at lengths under 10 ft if driven in to a 4 ohm load? I don't think the article fully addressed what happens at the more commonly used speaker cable lengths.

So have I, but I'm not looking for subjective differences. I'm wondering if anyone has seen resistance tests for semisolid or solid conductors vs their stranded counterparts at equivalent gauges.

I deal with Audioquest cabling on a daily basis. From what I gather, the vast majority of what that company claims is pseudoscience at best. I was wondering if anyone had evidence that their solid and semisolid conductors created a lower effective gauge than what they're physically using? I.E...

Thanks for the responses, guys. I currently have a part time job at a best buy so with my employee discount the Bowers & Wilkins would be just shy of $600. The Martin Logans have not come in yet but they would probably be around $400-500 for a pair. I've listened to the CM1s and enjoyed them buy...

The title pretty much says it all. I recently bought an Onkyo tx-nr609 and would like to get two good quality bookshelf speakers to go with it. I'm not planning on having a sub or center channel and it will likely be used in relatively small spaces for most of my life. I have the B&W MM-1 for my...