My DIY speaker build.

[panteragstk]

I think he just meant that if you miter something to make assembly easy, to remember that rounding over can be a real problem. Not necessarily directed at me since I kind of hi-jacked the thread.

No hi-jacking at all. This is meant to be kind of a how-to guide for me and for me to show my progress once I start. I still haven't decided if I want to go the veneer ply or just veneer the cabinet once it's complete. Mitering the edges will be a pain since I haven't done it before I think I'd waste wood and time. Rabbit or butt joints are what I'll end up doing if I don't go the veneer ply route. This is the first time I've built speakers so KISS is key. The less complicated the better.

 

[Swerd]

I still haven't decided if I want to go the veneer ply or just veneer the cabinet once it's complete. Mitering the edges will be a pain since I haven't done it before I think I'd waste wood and time. Rabbit or butt joints are what I'll end up doing if I don't go the veneer ply route. This is the first time I've built speakers so KISS is key. The less complicated the better.

I'm not advocating mitered edges over butt joints, or the other way either. There are trade-offs which ever way you do it. Just so you know in advance.

Butt joints may be simpler to perform, but when you finish the cabinet, the exposed wood edges must be sealed. Unsealed wood edges will show through double layer veneer or numerous layers of paint. It's called "telegraphing".

One certain way to avoid telegraphing is to use mitered joints. Another way is to "paint" the exposed edges with at least two coatings of a 50/50 mix of wood glue and water. And yes, you should sand in between coats.

Either way you do it, it will be more work than you originally thought if you want it to look good .

 

[fuzz092888]

No hi-jacking at all. This is meant to be kind of a how-to guide for me and for me to show my progress once I start. I still haven't decided if I want to go the veneer ply or just veneer the cabinet once it's complete. Mitering the edges will be a pain since I haven't done it before I think I'd waste wood and time. Rabbit or butt joints are what I'll end up doing if I don't go the veneer ply route. This is the first time I've built speakers so KISS is key. The less complicated the better.

If you've got a table saw I don't think mitered joints are too hard. Especially if you invest in a digital angle thing that sticks to the saw blade to make sure your blade is at 90 and then 45 degrees, but only do what you feel comfortable with. Like Swerd said, any way you do it there's going to be a lot of little things that end up being a fair amount of work.

 

[panteragstk]

If I don't miter the edges I'll use MDF and butt joints with a veneer on top to get the finish I want. A friend at work thinks the finish on my furniture is walnut so that's what I'll be attempting to match.

 

[Swerd]

… A friend at work thinks the finish on my furniture is walnut so that's what I'll be attempting to match.

Here's some walnut I recently saw. It's always good to aim high .

"Fiddleback" walnut

Yes, that curly walnut is a standard veneer on Salk speakers.

 

[panteragstk]

Here's some walnut I recently saw. It's always good to aim high .

"Fiddleback" walnut

Yes, that curly walnut is a standard veneer on Salk speakers.

Aim high indeed. Very nice. I'd be very happy to have a finish that good.

 

[panteragstk]

Same work friend sent me to this site:

Premium Walnut Burl

 

[Nestor]

Same work friend sent me to this site:

Premium Walnut Burl

Burls are my favourite grains. Curly comes in second, especially when you hit them with a dye stain.

 

[panteragstk]

That looks pretty fantastic. Now to just see what wifey's preference is.

 

[Nestor]

That looks pretty fantastic. Now to just see what wifey's preference is.

That's what I like about veneer. The choices are endless.

Also, WAF can't get any higher if you let her choose the veneer.

 

[lsiberian]

This is a clever method I've never even considered. I was doing research on the matter this morning and stumbled across it. Basically you take a 2"x2" rabbet out a 3/4" x 3"4 block and You also give it the roundover you want. I think I will use this on my next build.

 

[fuzz092888]

This is a clever method I've never even considered. I was doing research on the matter this morning and stumbled across it. Basically you take a 2"x2" rabbet out a 3/4" x 3"4 block and You also give it the roundover you want. I think I will use this on my next build.

That does look pretty interesting. Although depends on what wood or veneer you're using to be able to get a 2X2 of it.

 

[lsiberian]

That does look pretty interesting. Although depends on what wood or veneer you're using to be able to get a 2X2 of it.

Once I get my table saw I'll be able to try it out. After the 3-ways I'll be looking to build to REXXX sealed systems. I'd love to try the technique on those.

Sorry for hijacking the thread Pang. There is no greater teacher than experience.

 

[panteragstk]

So I've decided to build a set of "test" speakers before I decide to tackle the ER18's. The main reason is I want some practice veneering before I build something that will be a showpiece in a room. I've looked at a few kits on meniscus and the overnight sensations and sopranos are two I'm considering. Any other cheap designs anyone would like to suggest?

 

[fuzz092888]

depends in what you want out of then an what you consider cheap. The speedster looks pretty interesting from meniscus. I love my mandolins and think the piccolos are priced too closely to go with those.

 

[panteragstk]

depends in what you want out of then an what you consider cheap. The speedster looks pretty interesting from meniscus. I love my mandolins and think the piccolos are priced too closely to go with those.

Under $300 for the speaker parts is what I'm shooting for. Under 11" tall as well. That's why I chose what I did so far.

 

[fuzz092888]

The speedster may be a good fit then, I'm pretty sure it's under $300 and is a small cab as well.

 

[panteragstk]

The speedster may be a good fit then, I'm pretty sure it's under $300 and is a small cab as well.

Thanks, I'll give it a look.

 

[lsiberian]

I'd do a Dayton Reference build. The RS28 tweeter with the RS180 would make an excellent 2-way. You'd have to do crossover design though.

 

[ARES24]

I don't mean to be Captain Obvious here but if you are just trying to practice your wood working technique why not build a shelf, no fancy parts required.

If there is a speaker set that you want and don't care what it looks like then go for it. Otherwise why spend money on things you don't need. (Unless you have too much money, if that is the case I have many ideas )