Natrix

Natrix

Junior Audioholic
I found a design for my 10.1's similar to the Kappa VQ MidQ plans stickied in this forum on TLS Guys web page (tip of the hat to TLS Guy). I've laid out the design attempting to make the box as square as possible while trying to fit a 46" slot port into a 2.23 ft^3 box.

I have ran into what might be an issue and I'd like to get some input before I start cutting and assembling this design. There is only a 1.75" space between the interior front wall of the box and the opening to the port on the inside. Considering the port is 2.5" tall by 6" wide, is the 1.75" space enough for the air to flow like it should through the port?

The interior dimensions of my plan are 17"H x 13.5"W x 17.5"L. The only way to make more room for the port is by subtracting width and either adding height or length to the box or by adding another 90 degree bend. If I do have to allow more space for the opening of the port should I change the dimensions again or should I bend the port another 90 degrees? Any and all input is greatly appreciated.
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
I found a design for my 10.1's similar to the Kappa VQ MidQ plans stickied in this forum on TLS Guys web page (tip of the hat to TLS Guy). I've laid out the design attempting to make the box as square as possible while trying to fit a 46" slot port into a 2.23 ft^3 box.

I have ran into what might be an issue and I'd like to get some input before I start cutting and assembling this design. There is only a 1.75" space between the interior front wall of the box and the opening to the port on the inside. Considering the port is 2.5" tall by 6" wide, is the 1.75" space enough for the air to flow like it should through the port?

The interior dimensions of my plan are 17"H x 13.5"W x 17.5"L. The only way to make more room for the port is by subtracting width and either adding height or length to the box or by adding another 90 degree bend. If I do have to allow more space for the opening of the port should I change the dimensions again or should I bend the port another 90 degrees? Any and all input is greatly appreciated.
You need to account for the displacement of the vent into your enclosure design. You also may need to allow the vent to follow the contours of the enclosure inside. Your vent opening inside the enclosure should be free of obstruction for at least the height dimension of your vent. In this case 2.5". If you can double that it is even better. So to answer your question yes you need to bend another 90 degrees.
 
Natrix

Natrix

Junior Audioholic
Thanks Annunaki. I kind of thought that would be the answer. I have accounted for the displacement of the vent. The enclosure is 1.67 ft^3 with the vent displacement subtracted. I will bend the port again.
 

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Natrix

Natrix

Junior Audioholic
Well I redesigned my cabinets to accommodate adequate clearance for the port opening. The port now travels along the bottom, up the back wall and then turns 180 degrees back down and one more 90 degree turn forward from there. So far I have the two ports done and the rest of my pieces cut (see pic).

This is the first project I have attempted and to say the least it has been a learning experience. When I called a local lumber company to inquire about cabinet grade plywood they informed they had two kinds; one with a veneer core and another with a mdf core. I opted for the mdf thinking that with two different kinds of wood sandwiched together it would be easier to eliminate any any resonances that may occur. Well the veneer is very thin and likes to fray when cut. If I had to do this over again I would've opted for just straight mdf.

I also have learned that attempting to cut large pieces of wood on a table saw that is not large enough to support said pieces of wood causes problems because the uncut piece is pulling away from the blade and moves the side you are trying to cut and you end up with pieces that are not square.

I'm doing this project in my step-dad's wood shop and he has a Kreg joint system. I was going to use this as it would allow me to construct the box with minimal clamping. However, in practicing on some spare pieces I have found the mdf doesn't like the screws and splits.

Hats off to all those in the DIY community. I'm getting an understanding of what it takes to complete a project like this and it's a lot of work and I'm not even close to done. I suspect the pride in ownership will be very high when I am though.
 

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Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord


Please keep the pic's coming. I don't have any idea how it's going to look later so I'm looking forward to seeing this completed.
 
Natrix

Natrix

Junior Audioholic
I have some pictures to share. Still have a ways to go, but I'm making progress.
The pictures with front baffles are dry fitted to give you an idea of how it's going to look. I'll flush trim the port openings on the baffles once I get them glued. I also plan on rounding over the outside front baffle opening.
 

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Natrix

Natrix

Junior Audioholic
I have finished the construction of the boxes.
Finished Box Front.jpg

Finished Box Side.jpg

Finished with Speaker.jpg

In Room Stacked.jpg
I plan on painting these with a gloss black finish, but that will come at a later date. I have them installed in my living room stacked at the 1/4 front wall mark. I also have a SVS PB12 DSP that I will using along with them. I haven't had a ton of time trying to integrate these, but initial results are pretty good. I'm powering these with a Crown XLS 1500 and I want to use my MiniDSP for bass management, but I'm waiting for the Art CleanBox to arrive to boost the levels so I can use it. I need to play around with placement a little based on the REW results I'm getting. The room modes I had at 31Hz and 50Hz have leveled off, but I have some nodes to deal with.

All-in-all this was a pretty successful project (sans painting). I learned a bunch and made some mistakes along the way, but I'm happy with how they turned out.
 

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