Denon AVR-1909 'Extreme Makeover'

D

DMBox

Audiophyte
After 3 years of owning my AVR-1909 (which does fill my needs from a feature perspective) I chose to 'upgrade' my AVR rather than replacing it. Obviously, before tackling this type of 'upgrade' you obviously will need to be experienced in working to component level, and have the ability to solder, including surface mount, but, this upgrade turned was was a run-of-the-mill Denon into what is truly top of the line sonically.

Having worked at Altec-Lansing here in OKC before Mark IV Industries sold out the name in the 90's, I'm intimately familiar with professional sound, and from an engineering perspective, how to objectively look at design, and by choosing the 'right parts' for the right places, you can turn the AVR-1909 into a very fine sounding AVR, better than anything I have heard in quite some time.

After evaluating the the signal path, and the op amps, I chose to replace all of the signal path electrolytics with ELNA SILMIC II 10uF/35v, (roughly 50 or so) and all bipolar op amps on the mainboard, input and HDMI board from JRC2068's and AZ4580's across the board with TI/Burr-Brown OPA1602's. And the ADC side of the HDMI with OPA2365's. The signal path caps on the HDMI board were replaced with SILMIC II 10uF/16v.

I cannot tell you the dramatic difference this has made in the AVR-1909. No more overshoot, or loss of detail and imaging...it is simply AMAZING, to say the least, what this has done to improve the sound.

I doubt anything, even 100 times the $70.00 dollard investment I have in the parts ($12.00 for 100 SILMIC II aqt DigiKey and around $50.00 at Mouser for the op amps) could even come close to the sound quality it now produces in ALL arenas, both analog and digital sides. You really should, if you have the skill set to work with the parts, do this, you will LOVE yourself for it!
 
GlocksRock

GlocksRock

Audioholic Spartan
That's awesome, did you get any pics of the upgrade?
 
BoredSysAdmin

BoredSysAdmin

Audioholic Slumlord
That's neat ! We want more details and more importantly photos !
I am comfortable with component replacement, but if surface mounting is required - count me out :)
I did cap replacement on several motherboards and power supplies - i guess it's the easy stuff :)
 
T

templemaners

Senior Audioholic
We want more details and more importantly photos !
And most importantly, before and after measurements. Color me as very skeptical that $70 worth of electronics would make a drastic difference in sound quality if the important stuff (speakers, speaker placement, and room) remained constant.
 
afterlife2

afterlife2

Audioholic Warlord
If you can post a you tube video how to? That would be AWESOME.:cool:
 
D

DMBox

Audiophyte
And most importantly, before and after measurements. Color me as very skeptical that $70 worth of electronics would make a drastic difference in sound quality if the important stuff (speakers, speaker placement, and room) remained constant.
I understand the scepticism. The proof is in the hearing, and man, I'm telling you...this is a WHOLE new ball game...if you are anywhere close to OKC, I invite anyone to give a listen, I have another AVR-1909 in original shape for A/B testing. You have to hear the difference, and it doesn't take about 20 seconds...and you point incessantly saying, "I WANT THAT!" And all it takes is 70 in parts...no BS.. I'll do another post later this evening when I get home from work...and describe what's involved and some comparisons from actual audio from it.
 
D

DMBox

Audiophyte
No, the proof is in the measurements, not unchecked hyperbole. ;)

I'm looking forward to your post later tonight. :)
Design it so the measurements are right, you ear confirms it...it's a natural following, bring your measurement equipment with you when you visit, but all you will really want is your favorite SACD or Blu-Ray concert...come on down and measure away.....
 
D

DMBox

Audiophyte
Let me preface this post say a couple of things. One, The Denon AVR-1909 design is fairly good one. My system really is a rather modest one, using Polk R30's and R15's with a CS101 center and Definitive Technologies Pro-Sub-1000. I started by breaking the elements into subsystems and what I could do with little money a project to see just what could be done. One of the things, is the analog chain, and no matter the system, it always has to come back analog to be played over the speaker system. This was one of the crucial starting blocks, and having done reworks since the 70's, I know that signal chain caps aree the first place to start. People who think various brands and deisgns of caps make no matter simply know no better. Long gone are the days or Rel's or WonderCaps, and now we have lines like MUSE and my personal choice for analog, and that the ELNA SILMIC II, purposely built for this application, and hands down the sweetest and finest signal chain electrolytic on the market today.

There is a certain sweetness and tonal quality only to be found from an electrolytic, and is my favorite. After examining the schematic for the AVR-1909, Denon made a good choice in the value to use, but SUCKED in their usage of SAMYOUNG caps. You couldn't have chosen a worse cap to pass signal through. So I purchased a hundred 10uF/35v from DigiKey for $12 and reworked from the schematic any cap that signal passed through on the mainboard to the finals and the input board for the SR and SL channel to compare. I reassembled the unit to get a feel of what affect that had and was pleasantly surprised at the tonal change that was emerging in the EXT. IN channels which carried my SACD info, however this lead to some interesting finds.

I had used a Lissajous pattern to look at what was going on in comparing the input signal against the analog chain, and I found that 100Hz was often as much 60 degrees off from the source, with high overshoot, ring and poor recovery, and high end almost strained to well over -120 degrees from the source, which lead me to the op amps. Sure enough, JRC2068's are stuck in this thing which has a slow slew rate of 5~6V/μs, and not even specs in the schematic, but the schematic wasn't much better with the AZ4580 which is only 7V/μs, both having really crummy noise levels and THD for this usage...maybe a car amp, but not a home entertainment system. Slew rates needs to be 3 times that. In the pinnacle of analog we came to find that 20V/μs is a good target for signal chain and can keep up with complex passages, which the JRC was doing a really horrid job with. The JRC has an advertised overshoot of guaranteed 15% and could even be more if at rail to rail voltages, which was clearly appearent on the scope. They simply cannot keep up faithfully to the source. And this is where the goofy engineer or 'bean counter' who chose this got you and me.

So back to engineering 101 we go, and selecting a quality op amp, and Burr-Brown is known as an industry standard and the SoundPlus line is a good solid base to choose from. There are others, but the TI/Burr-Brown's are known for their warmth and good performance specs hard to beat. So selecting an op amps started with a total look at what I had to work with inside the AVR-1909, and examining the ADC as well as the DAC would yeild a good choice to use in the analog chain as well. One of the criteria I had was to find the 'right' op amp so that I wouldn't have to change loading, decoupling or resistors (basically without having to redesign Denon's original one) and keeping the current draw simular to what was already there.

Several key elements must coalesce for effective analog front-end design in the signal path. The typical signal path’s analog front-end includes an op amp that drives the ADC, an RC filter, and the microcontroller or digital signal processor (DSP). When interfacing an ADC with an op amp, it’s imperative to understand the specifications that are important to get the expected performance results. Modern ADC ac specifications such as THD, SNR, settling time, and SFDR are critical for filtering, test and measurement, video, and reconstruction applications. The high-performance op amp’s settling time, THD, and noise performance must be better than that of the ADC it’s driving to maintain the proper system accuracy with minimal or no error.

Noise is a very important specification for both the op amp and the ADC. Three main sources of noise contribute to the overall performance of the ADC - quantization noise, noise generated by the ADC itself (particularly at higher frequencies), and the noise generated by the application circuit. For example, the 24-bit ADC of the ADAU1328 used in the AVR has an SNR of 108dB. To achieve better SNR, the ADC driver noise should be as small as possible. The Rohm BA4510 used in the AVR has an abismal 80dB and slew rate of only 5V/μs. Now in designing the proper op amp for ADC side, when driven single ended to differential, you must double the noise and THD of the op amp used, since you are using both sides to drive a single channel of the CODEC. This means to starting out the gate, the op amp you have in your AVR created twice the noise in one single channel then both channels combined in the CODEC (BAD BAD) and THD of the CODEC is 0.0019% and just one side of the BA4510 is 0.01% again BAD BAD! So we flood out analog to digital converter with huge noise and harmonic distortion, not counting the fact that the op amps slew rate is so slow, it cannot even keep up with our content. Don't even get me started on overshoot and unble to stop ring. The combined settling time of the op amp and the ADC must be within 1 LSB. The 0.01% settling time of the original is 6us. That's microseconds....the ADAU1328 is 300ns...that's nano seconds.... Everything that has to go to DSP or Audssey passes through the ADC chain.

Signal-to-noise and distortion (SINAD) is a parameter that combines the SNR and THD specifications. SINAD is defined as the RMS value of the output signal to the RMS value of all the other spectral components below half the clock frequency, including harmonics but excluding dc. Because SINAD compares all undesired frequency components with the input frequency, it’s an overall measure of an ADC’s dynamic performance. Also, the op amp’s critical parameters—THD, settling time, and noise—must be taken in to account to interface a high-performance op amp with an ADC. And remember, that using this choice in Denon's design of single ended to differential input requires us to double the noise and THD figures. The choice we have made is the OPA2365 which has in comparison to the BA4510, a noise of 4.5nV/Hz at 100kHz, slew rate of 25V/μs and THD+N @ 0.0004%. This is a much better choice and meets every aspect of our need to properly drive the ADAU1328 clean, without additional noise and vanishingly low THD. Every bit is driven to 1LSB and settling time equal to the ADC at 0.3μs to 0.01%. The hard part to select this op amp is that it has to be a 3.3v device, and a good choice for audio, which it certainly is. And to hear it is to believe it!

Next we need to address DAC (digital playback and analog side as well. The criteria really falls within the same specs as we use for ADC, we simply go out the other side. This why we use an Burr-Brown OPA1602 which has even lower noise at 2.5nV/√Hz at 1kHz, lower distortion (THD+noise) @ 0.00003% at 1kHz and the slew rate we need... 20V/μs and works within Denon's original op amp power specs with actually a slightly lower current draw (400mV compaired to 500mV) With this choice we go from an measly 85dB of dynamic range with the originals to well over 130dB...stop and think about that for a second... Channel separation went from 90dB a channel to well over 130dB as well.

The real problem with many folks who choose to change op amps don't properly select one and ends up in oscillation or use a jfet where a bipolar should be used, and these two selections are both bipolar and are drop-in replacements without mods of any kind.

I contacted Mouser online and obtained 10 OPA1602's and 2 OPA2365's for around $50.00 shipped. And this is where things start getting interesting...

I take and in the SR and SL channels in the analog side place in the EXT. IN path an OPA1602 and reassemble to see what happened. I took another Lissajous view of the orginal LR channel and the modded SR channel with front right signal only from the source and find that the modded channel probed at the finals right before the darlingtons and made a quick recording of the original (A1) and the modded channel (B1) which I will attach, and the orginal is still the same but the modded channel is polar responsive nearly exactly to the source, and I mean EXACTLY...I'll include the A1 and B1 file and you can see if you examine on a spectrograph just what you are dealing with from our non-friend, the 'bean counter'... Overshoot, loss of control, loss of high frequencies, to out and out loss of program matierial. Polar opposites on high frequencies when confronted in complex passeges...what does this mean to my ear? Smeared or loss of content, unable to control bass when you know it shoudln't sound muddy, but does... Quality sound starts with reproducing the source as faithfully as possible, and it is if you use quality parts. It wouldn't have costed Denon, or me and you another 50 bucks per unit to have had sonically faithful reproduction.

The design of this amp is good, however, their using cheap parts in these two areas make it just so-so, but the building blocks are already there, just this simple signal path upgrade makes a world of difference, and that ain't no BS. Come listen for yourself.

I cannot post pics yet...pooooo
 
D

DMBox

Audiophyte
Our boys in Blue who watch this Zoo say I cannot post links until I post more, so add 1 to the mix...(bump)
 
3db

3db

Audioholic Slumlord
I'm happy for you but I too am on the skeptical boat. I need to see measurements (I realize you may not be able to provide them) before I can begin to appreciate what you are hearing. I am happy for you that you are pleased with the results.
 
D

DMBox

Audiophyte
In the enclosed pic you can see the HDMI board with the 16 signal caps changed over, and this is an important change from the surface mount absolute crappy sounding caps used, and the hardest part of this whole mod. I understand production and costs, but this area is very important. Your analog signal must pass through as little as 8 electrolytics, and if you go from analog to A/D/A like iPod for example, you go through no less than 10.

Imagine placing 10 pieces of carpet between your ears and the speakers...that's what poor selection of electrolytics in your signal path does to you. I know a lot of those who read this, more than likely have been exposed to a really fine audiophile quality analog system some time in their life, or even owned one. You know that when you sit down to listen to music through something like the AVR-1909 in it's original shape, and hear a piano, you say to yourself, "yes...that's a piano"...but in a really good high end audiophile system you listen to vinyl through a pair of McIntosh mono-blocks with a moving coil cartridge and a really fine set of speakers, it compells you to close your eyes and you get goosebumps, because it sounds as if you are mearly a couple feet from it and can hear the incredible soundstage being there is...the detail of the hammer hitting the key, and the subtle ring of the soundboard and it reverberates through the room...you could touch the thing...if I was to analogize with words what this mod does for you, that would be it...you go from so-so oh yea it's a piano, to OMG I could touch this thing.

The parts changed took an afternoon, and was as the pic showed, the 16 caps on the HDMI board, all the signal path caps on the mainboard, including the the 2 22uF/50v caps going to the subwoofer output (using 2 10uF/35v parallelled) and nearly every 10uF/50v cap on the input board. I will hopefully open the AVR back up this weekend and dissasemble it to give you pics of the vaious places these caps get changed, but the schematic which I'll include shows you. The op amps replaced were obviously the 6 on the HDMI board, and you can see in the above pic the old ones removed awaiting it's new bride, and 6 on the input board, (4 for EXT IN. and 2 for the SW summing when you use LFE+MAIN L+R) but all caps in the audio chain on the input board get new ones. These are simple thru-hole designs and easy for most to do.

The Denon AVR-1909 layout and basic analog sections are tried and true...used for decades..a pair of darlingtons driven in push-pull class A/B, and understanding that some 'features' like Audssey are needed since time alignment is crucial to your ear, but after this mod I don't even need EQ. Never has direct or pure direct sounded well, it was more like lifeless and thin. However, this makes the AVR sound like it really should have from the original engineer's concept, which was simply poorly executed in the signal path by inexpensive parts not really suited AT ALL for this design.

It is truly the best 70 bucks I have EVER invested in audio...bar none...and I've been doing this since the 70's...

Cheers to all!

AVR-1909 Service Manual
 
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D

DMBox

Audiophyte
I'm happy for you but I too am on the skeptical boat. I need to see measurements (I realize you may not be able to provide them) before I can begin to appreciate what you are hearing. I am happy for you that you are pleased with the results.
Maybe someone at Audioholics would be interested in doing a story on this...I'd be game for it...like I said it simply takes about 20 seconds of listening...measurements cannot reproduce soundstage sadly, and to hear it is phenominal.

The really good and bad part of this is, all Denon products suffer this issue...
 
S

sviru

Audiophyte
Hi. I was curious about your work. I have done the same to my av DENON 1802 reciever back in 2002...
I used then opa2134 + op2604... it was long time ago...
I remember i used some BG NX and etc.

But... After reading your post I need... I want... to upgrade my Cambridge Audio azur640r...

I wanted to ask you aboud some things. Why did you choose opa1602? it is a bipolar opamp while 2068 is fet... I have only 2068 in my unit. I considered opa1612 as a replacement - it has slightly better spec than opa1602.

I wanted to use ad8066 but I'm afraid of oscillations and i dont really know if it would sound better than this new opa1612 (i always liked BB sound).

I have about 24 caps in signal path on 6 channels. Samxon 10uf mostly... i want to change them to silmic II caps as you mentioned. Wanted to purchase them from ebay but I'm afraid of fakes... price is to low.

Thanks for any ideas.
Ps. I was wondering about cutting some of this dc blocking caps in signal path - as youmentiond they degrade sound in a significant way... 4 caps in a path... i think it is to much.

SviRu
 
D

DMBox

Audiophyte
Hi. I was curious about your work. I have done the same to my av DENON 1802 reciever back in 2002...
I used then opa2134 + op2604... it was long time ago...
I remember i used some BG NX and etc.

But... After reading your post I need... I want... to upgrade my Cambridge Audio azur640r...

I wanted to ask you aboud some things. Why did you choose opa1602? it is a bipolar opamp while 2068 is fet... I have only 2068 in my unit. I considered opa1612 as a replacement - it has slightly better spec than opa1602.

I wanted to use ad8066 but I'm afraid of oscillations and i dont really know if it would sound better than this new opa1612 (i always liked BB sound).

I have about 24 caps in signal path on 6 channels. Samxon 10uf mostly... i want to change them to silmic II caps as you mentioned. Wanted to purchase them from ebay but I'm afraid of fakes... price is to low.

Thanks for any ideas.
Ps. I was wondering about cutting some of this dc blocking caps in signal path - as youmentiond they degrade sound in a significant way... 4 caps in a path... i think it is to much.

SviRu
One of primary considerations was linerity and phase control. The OPA-1602 has better low frequency phase control than the OPA-1612. Second, I wanted to make a choice that has the same, if not less, current requirements than the originals. The OPA-1642 is a JFET design and has more resistor voltage spectral density noise. The OPA-1602 was just a good fit, and I love the sound of bi-polar designs, and required no mods to the AVR's decoupling and resistors for bias.

Concerning the caps, I agree the best path is direct, however, a little prudence for protection is always a good thing. Nothing I have ever heard surpasses the sound quality of the SILMIC II's though. ELNA hit a home run on that one. DigiKey was my source for them.
 

Eldad Yamin

Audiophyte
Can you please share a video/instruction on how to do it?
In addition, link to the products you used will be great!

thanks!
 
M

mjcmt

Audioholic
After evaluating the the signal path, and the op amps, I chose to replace all of the signal path electrolytics with ELNA SILMIC II 10uF/35v, (roughly 50 or so) and all bipolar op amps on the mainboard, input and HDMI board from JRC2068's and AZ4580's across the board with TI/Burr-Brown OPA1602's. And the ADC side of the HDMI with OPA2365's. The signal path caps on the HDMI board were replaced with SILMIC II 10uF/16v.
I've thought about doing this to my '90 Mac c37 preamp which has a lot of op amps and my current '06 Yamaha avr. With only a minor upgrade, how would I choose which opamps to replace and how to determine an opamp replacement. Thanks
 
DM602S3

DM602S3

Audiophyte
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