Help diagnosing eD A3-300 sub problem

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Thanks, this looks interesting. I'll do some homework and try to find user reviews and comparisons.

I'm a noob at sub research and design, I've heard sealed might not be so great in a room my size (5500 cubic feet)?

Ported is more efficient, but a big 18" single sealed, dual 18" single-cabinet sealed, or better yet two of the single-18 or two of the dual-18 should be enough.

 

[ahblaza]

I would get the Crown XLS2500, which is 775wpc x 2ch RMS 4ohm or 2400wpc x 1ch mono bridged RMS 4ohm!

Or the Crown XLS1500, which is 525wpc x 2ch 4ohm or 1550wpc x1ch mono 4ohm.

XLS Drivecore™ Series

I think the XLS 1500 is more than enough and it's only $325 delivered.

Thanks my friend, I'm fairly ignorant about outboard sub amps, I would use the XLS1500 in bridged mono to drive either of the two subs mentioned? Correct me as to the operation of an external sub amp, I realize the 1500 can be used in stereo as well as mono, what configuration for driving a subwoofer? Thanks.
Jeff

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Thanks my friend, I'm fairly ignorant about outboard sub amps, I would use the XLS1500 in bridged mono to drive either of the two subs mentioned? Correct me as to the operation of an external sub amp, I realize the 1500 can be used in stereo as well as mono, what configuration for driving a subwoofer? Thanks.
Jeff

If I were just driving one subwoofer, then yes I would change the mode to Mono, instead of Stereo, which can easily be done from the front panel LCD.

This will give you 1550 Watts RMS for your one sub.

 

[ahblaza]

If I were just driving one subwoofer, then yes I would change the mode to Mono, instead of Stereo, which can easily be done from the front panel LCD.

This will give you 1550 Watts RMS for your one sub.

Thanks buddy, the SS 18.2P is looking real sweet, dual 18"s or
two VS 18.1's, so two subs stereo out for the XLS 1500?

 

[TLS Guy]

This is where the song and dance with eD comes into play. I've been told that it's not likely the amp caused damage to the driver, I've been told that the amp could be sending too much power to the driver (the Infinity driver I installed last night is 1260w, the amp 300w). I've also been told my settings are not likely correct, or that I'm listening to movies that simply have their bass too loud

There is no rubbing. I have inspected the original driver thoroughly, and while not a speaker builder I have seen nothing physically out of place. I thought for sure the glue from the cone and suspension had come undone, but this is sound.

eD has been contacted, I've requested a warranty replacement. This is where the fun begins

Amps going bad damage drivers by sending DC off set. A not unusual occurrence. This can short rings on the VC, by overheating. This lowers DC resistance and impedance and then your next amp is fried. Get an ohm meter and measure the DC resistance of the driver.

 

[ahblaza]

Amps going bad damage drivers by sending DC off set. A not unusual occurrence. This can short rings on the VC, by overheating. This lowers DC resistance and impedance and then your next amp is fried. Get an ohm meter and measure the DC resistance of the driver.

Mark, if you don't mind me asking how do you measure DC resistance of the driver with Ohm meter, sorry for the dumb question.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Thanks buddy, the SS 18.2P is looking real sweet, dual 18"s or
two VS 18.1's, so two subs stereo out for the XLS 1500?

Dual VS18.1: 130dB from 20-80Hz
Dual SS18.1: 131dB from 40-100Hz
Single SS18.2: 131dB from 40Hz-100Hz

So I think dual SS18.1 for $1K is a good deal.

Yes, for 2 subs, I would leave the XLS1500 in Stereo mode for 525 Watts RMS x 2ch.

I think that is enough, although I think a lot of people would recommend getting two XLS1500 for 1550 Watts x 2ch.

 

[TLS Guy]

Mark, if you don't mind me asking how do you measure DC resistance of the driver with Ohm meter, sorry for the dumb question.

It's not dumb.

You set the ohm meter on the X 1 range. Then connect one probe to the +ve driver terminal and the other to -ve. You don't have to worry about polarity. The you note the reading. The you need to find out from the manufacturer what the value should be. If it is low by 10% or more the driver is fried.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

What? You're not looking into passive subs from Funk Audio or what about the dual-18" CraigSUB ?

https://www.chasehometheater.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=500&category_id=29&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=138&redirected=1&Itemid=138

Well, somebody gave me a red chicklet for this post and said, "Chase is bullsh!t".

Whomever said that to me should share his thoughts with everyone here instead.

 

[jcunwired]

^^^

There will always be haters.

 

[ahblaza]

It's not dumb.

You set the ohm meter on the X 1 range. Then connect one probe to the +ve driver terminal and the other to -ve. You don't have to worry about polarity. The you note the reading. The you need to find out from the manufacturer what the value should be. If it is low by 10% or more the driver is fried.

Thank you Mark, much appreciated as always.I understand that I will be using the ohm resistance scale from X 1 to X 10K and select X 1 ? I don't understand why this is called DC resistance when there is no current present, just resistance in ohms.
Jeff

 

[ahblaza]

Dual VS18.1: 130dB from 20-80Hz
Dual SS18.1: 131dB from 40-100Hz
Single SS18.2: 131dB from 40Hz-100Hz

So I think dual SS18.1 for $1K is a good deal.

Yes, for 2 subs, I would leave the XLS1500 in Stereo mode for 525 Watts RMS x 2ch.

I think that is enough, although I think a lot of people would recommend getting two XLS1500 for 1550 Watts x 2ch.

How did I know you would say that (2 X 1500's)

 

[TLS Guy]

Thank you Mark, much appreciated as always.I understand that I will be using the ohm resistance scale from X 1 to X 10K and select X 1 ? I don't understand why this is called DC resistance when there is no current present, just resistance in ohms.
Jeff

But there is current flowing!

V = I X R. So R = V/I. The meter has a battery, and that has a given DC voltage. So there is a current flowing through the resistance under test, that decreases linearly as the resistance under test rises. So the meter is is fact measuring current, which it always does when testing anything on whatever scale. However when you set the meter to resistance the scale is calibrated in ohms.

So yes, you are measuring the DC resistance when you put the probes to the driver, and a DC current is flowing.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

How did I know you would say that (2 X 1500's)

I would try just one XLS1500 first. If the gain on the XLS1500 is 100% and the gain on the AVR sub channel level is +12.0 and it is still not loud enough (which I highly doubt), then get another XLS 1500.

Just realize that on the 15A circuit, Max overall power output is limited to less than 1800watts.

A single XLS1500 = 525 Watts x 2 = 1050watts Max.

You would need to install new 20A circuit if you actually need more power, which I doubt you will need.

 

[ahblaza]

I would try just one XLS1500 first. If the gain on the XLS1500 is 100% and the gain on the AVR sub channel level is +12.0 and it is still not loud enough (which I highly doubt), then get another XLS 1500.

Just realize that on the 15A circuit, Max overall power output is limited to less than 1800watts.

A single XLS1500 = 525 Watts x 2 = 1050watts Max.

You would need to install new 20A circuit if you actually need more power, which I doubt you will need.

I have a separate 20 amp circuit, I don't think I will need more power though, I have an email sent to CHT, I only live two hours away, I'm interested in the SS 18.2 and may take a ride this week to check it out if they do that, thanks AD...

 

[ahblaza]

But there is current flowing!

V = I X R. So R = V/I. The meter has a battery, and that has a given DC voltage. So there is a current flowing through the resistance under test, that decreases linearly as the resistance under test rises. So the meter is is fact measuring current, which it always does when testing anything on whatever scale. However when you set the meter to resistance the scale is calibrated in ohms.

So yes, you are measuring the DC resistance when you put the probes to the driver, and a DC current is flowing.

Thank you Mark, I should know this, your explanation is always spot on and clarifies all of this, the light bulb came on as soon as I read your reply, thank you again so much my friend for taking the time to respond, I appreciate it.
Jeff

 

[caper26]

Thank you Mark, I should know this, your explanation is always spot on and clarifies all of this, the light bulb came on as soon as I read your reply, thank you again so much my friend for taking the time to respond, I appreciate it.
Jeff

So what are the results?

 

[ahblaza]

So what are the results?

I have not done it yet, a family emergency took precedence, I will get to it and post results.....