Yet Another Statements Build!

[mattsk8]

Now I need some help w/ the xovers!! Can someone look at these and let me know if the components seem to be in the right order? I know the pics are kinda crappy, I took them w/ my droid. I know I have the right parts based on the map on Curt Campbell's site, just want to be sure they're in the right order. Thanks for any help on this!!! Once I'm fairly certain they're in the right order I'll clean and tighten things up, just wanted to dumby them together for a good look first.

Anybody??...

 

[Swerd]

Anybody??...

I'll try, it would be easier if I could read the printed values on the XO parts in your photos.

Is this the correct schematic diagram?

The woofer (Net 3) and tweeter (Net 1) circuits seem like they are OK, but I'm not sure about the midrange (Net 2). In your photo, it looks like you have put L2021, R2022 & C 2021 in a different location than in the circuit diagram.

 

[jinjuku]

Give me some time to pull the pdf schematic and I will take a look. Connect everything with alligator clips and post a pic for me.

 

[mattsk8]

I'll try, it would be easier if I could read the printed values on the XO parts in your photos.

Is this the correct schematic diagram?

The woofer (Net 3) and tweeter (Net 1) circuits seem like they are OK, but I'm not sure about the midrange (Net 2). In your photo, it looks like you have put L2021, R2022 & C 2021 in a different location than in the circuit diagram.

Yes, that is the schematic I got from Curt's site for the Statements I'm building. I'll lay them out again tonight and take a better pic w/ my digital cam. I also have to figure out how to post pics from Picasa, my photo upload's full here. Might take a bit... Thanks a ton BTW!!!!

 

[Swerd]

Yes, that is the schematic I got from Curt's site for the Statements I'm building. I'll lay them out again tonight and take a better pic w/ my digital cam. I also have to figure out how to post pics from Picasa, my photo upload's full here. Might take a bit... Thanks a ton BTW!!!!

In my previous post, I meant to say the woofer (Net 1) & tweeter (Net 3). I mistakenly switched their numbers.

The more I looked at your photo and the midrange circuit, the more I wonder what is different. There are 4 different resistors in that circuit, and they all look the same in the photo, so I can't say anything.

If making a photo that shows the various values printed on the XO parts is not easy, take your existing photo, open in Microsoft Paint, and write in simple labels such as 100 µF, 8 ohms, or 0.3 mH near each item. Save it as a jpg or gif, and upload it here or elsewhere.

 

[mattsk8]

Can anyone explain how to insert an image? I have Picasa and when I click the "link to this photo" on Picasa, copy the url and paste it on the screen that comes up when I click on the "insert image" icon, all I get is this red X on the screen, no pic. Thanks for any help. I can't upload anymore photos on the site cuz I've uploaded my limit.

 

[GranteedEV]

The URL you're using isn't a direct link to the .jpg file, it's an URL to that page:

 

[mattsk8]

GranteedEV, How in the world did you do that?! I've posted and deleted that pick about 10 times and haven't been able to get it to come up! Is there an easy way to explain how I need to do it differently?

Edit: I think I figured it out...

Hip-hip... hoooraay!!!

 

[mattsk8]

OK, I've just learned soooo much about how neat those online picture libraries can be!! So, here's the midrange xover based on the #s from the map that Swerd put up (the same one I used, off Curt's site).

 

[jinjuku]

OK, I've just learned soooo much about how neat those online picture libraries can be!! So, here's the midrange xover based on the #s from the map that Swerd put up (the same one I used, off Curt's site).

Your good to go excepting that you have your polarity reversed on the circuit. Reverse polarity at the speaker not the input.

 

[mattsk8]

Your good to go excepting that you have your polarity reversed on the circuit. Reverse polarity at the speaker not the input.

Thanks! Glad I double checked cuz I had the polarity reversed at the input as well. Awesome, I can build these, glue up some cabinets and get to rockin out! I do have to route out the mid tunnels where they overlap the tweeter hole for the cooling fins on the tweets still. Seems every time I test fit I find some other reason I need to fire up the router. I saw you did that on yours jinjuku and wondered why; now I know!

I'm going to put the tweeter's xover on the same board as the woofer's. Only question is, should the tweeter's inductor lay flat or stand up? Swerd put the inductor map up earlier in the post but the woofer's inductor is different.

Thanks again for the help! Sorry to be so needy but I really appreciate it!

 

[jinjuku]

Thanks! Glad I double checked cuz I had the polarity reversed at the input as well. Awesome, I can build these, glue up some cabinets and get to rockin out! I do have to route out the mid tunnels where they overlap the tweeter hole for the cooling fins on the tweets still. Seems every time I test fit I find some other reason I need to fire up the router. I saw you did that on yours jinjuku and wondered why; now I know!

I'm going to put the tweeter's xover on the same board as the woofer's. Only question is, should the tweeter's inductor lay flat or stand up? Swerd put the inductor map up earlier in the post but the woofer's inductor is different.

Thanks again for the help! Sorry to be so needy but I really appreciate it!

I would mount the tweeter circuit behind the tweeter.

 

[mattsk8]

I would mount the tweeter circuit behind the tweeter.

Where? On the back of the cabinet between the mid tunnels? Why not just put em all in the base? I can get them down there no prob. No where near as big as I thought the xovers would be.

 

[Swerd]

Thanks! Glad I double checked cuz I had the polarity reversed at the input as well. Awesome, I can build these, glue up some cabinets and get to rockin out! I do have to route out the mid tunnels where they overlap the tweeter hole for the cooling fins on the tweets still. Seems every time I test fit I find some other reason I need to fire up the router. I saw you did that on yours jinjuku and wondered why; now I know!

I'm going to put the tweeter's xover on the same board as the woofer's. Only question is, should the tweeter's inductor lay flat or stand up? Swerd put the inductor map up earlier in the post but the woofer's inductor is different.

Thanks again for the help! Sorry to be so needy but I really appreciate it!

If I understand your original mid circuit photo, this modified version should be correct.

Edit: The small capacitor near the bottom was labeled 0.47 mH, should be 0.47 µF. Oops.

 

[mattsk8]

Another foam question-

On the 1" foam to line the mid tunnels, should I keep it 1 1/2" from the back of the speaker to the start of the bevel, or 1 1/2" from the back of the speaker if I'm not going to bevel? How did you do yours Jinjuku? And if I keep it 1 1/2" back, is that 1 1/2" from the back of the speaker's magnet or from the front cabinet baffle? Mainly curious cuz I'm short on foam if I go from the baffle to the rear of the cabinet, if I go 1 1/2" from the back of the speaker I'll make it...

 

[jinjuku]

I kept it back 1.5" from the tunnel front and beveled.

I may have 1" foam if you need some. Do this right. PM if you are coming up short Priority Mail is only a few days away

 

[mattsk8]

I'm about to cut the port in. Decided to put it in the back, centered between the base of the cabinet and the lower brace. I'll then put the binding posts just above the lower brace.

My question is, in the original cabinet design they have the port mounted in the base of the cabinet and it's 4" long. While they did say it can be moved to the back w/ no noticable difference in sound, and they said to make it the same length; is that "same length" based on what's inside the cabinet? When the port goes through the bottom in their design, it's 4" long and is mounted through 1 1/2" of MDF when it's in the base- leaving a total of 2 1/2" of port in the inside of the cabinet. If I move the port to the back of the cabinet and leave it 4", there will be 3 1/4" of port inside the cabinet because the rear is a 3/4" piece of MDF instead of going through 1 1/2" of MDF.

Long story short, do I make the port 3 1/4" long when going through the back or leave it at 4"?

Edit: Scratch that whole message, it can't be less than 4" cuz of the design of the way the port parts go together... 4" it is!

 

[Swerd]

I'm about to cut the port in. Decided to put it in the back, centered between the base of the cabinet and the lower brace. I'll then put the binding posts just above the lower brace.

My question is, in the original cabinet design they have the port mounted in the base of the cabinet and it's 4" long. While they did say it can be moved to the back w/ no noticable difference in sound, and they said to make it the same length; is that "same length" based on what's inside the cabinet? When the port goes through the bottom in their design, it's 4" long and is mounted through 1 1/2" of MDF when it's in the base- leaving a total of 2 1/2" of port in the inside of the cabinet. If I move the port to the back of the cabinet and leave it 4", there will be 3 1/4" of port inside the cabinet because the rear is a 3/4" piece of MDF instead of going through 1 1/2" of MDF.

Long story short, do I make the port 3 1/4" long when going through the back or leave it at 4"?

Make the port 4" long. The dimensions that matter are the port's internal diameter and length.

 

[mattsk8]

One last minute change, decided to go just above the lower brace (but below the bottom woofer) w/ the port. That way I don't have speaker wires running in front of the port.

 

[jinjuku]

One last minute change, decided to go just above the lower brace (but below the bottom woofer) w/ the port. That way I don't have speaker wires running in front of the port.

I was just going to say that you don't want speaker wires running past your port