Finishing Baltic Birch [with little time]

[baniels]

I had all the time in the world to work on my last project. This time I'm in a bit of a crunch.

This last weekend I assembled (minus the baffles) 2 pairs of the flatpacks from Erich for the Overnight Sensations.

The plan is to keep one pair for myself, and give the other to my brother in law for Christmas. Filling, sanding, filling, priming, sanding, painting, etc is not really an option. I'd rather aim for a decent finish than aim for a perfect paint job and miss the mark. I'm sure I don't have the time for it. If the baffles had been slightly oversizes I could have gone with paint on the baffle only, and veneer everywhere else, but they are too close to flush.

I've read of using a sealer/conditioner under a poly or similar top coat. I'm wondering if anyone here has a tried and true methods for an acceptable finish with BB. Particular brand of sealer? Finish options? What have you used?

I can use the insides for experimenting, and don't mind giving myself the ugly ducklings if I make any mistakes on the outside.

Here they are in their untouched blondness.

 

[lsiberian]

I had all the time in the world to work on my last project. This time I'm in a bit of a crunch.

This last weekend I assembled (minus the baffles) 2 pairs of the flatpacks from Erich for the Overnight Sensations.

The plan is to keep one pair for myself, and give the other to my brother in law for Christmas. Filling, sanding, filling, priming, sanding, painting, etc is not really an option. I'd rather aim for a decent finish than aim for a perfect paint job and miss the mark. I'm sure I don't have the time for it. If the baffles had been slightly oversizes I could have gone with paint on the baffle only, and veneer everywhere else, but they are too close to flush.

I've read of using a sealer/conditioner under a poly or similar top coat. I'm wondering if anyone here has a tried and true methods for an acceptable finish with BB. Particular brand of sealer? Finish options? What have you used?

I can use the insides for experimenting, and don't mind giving myself the ugly ducklings if I make any mistakes on the outside.

Here they are in their untouched blondness.

Finishes are definitely in the eye of the beholder. I will say finishing with seams showing is certainly acceptable in some instances. If you want to hide the seams The quarter round rabbet bit technique is supposed to be fantastic. I plan on trying it soon myself.

 

[adk highlander]

I have no comment on how to finish the speakers but I wanted to thank you for posting that link. I've been kicking around the idea to start doing some DIY speakers now that I have room to work in the new garage.

I'm definitely going to start out with the overnight sensations. Heck for $63 bucks each I cannot go wrong.

 

[baniels]

If you want to hide the seams The quarter round rabbet bit technique is supposed to be fantastic. I plan on trying it soon myself.

That's an option I hadn't considered. Though it is still more involved than I was hoping to get away with.

 

[Swerd]

Plywood edges will show through most finishes, including thin veneers, unless they are sealed well.

An easy method is to coat the exposed edges with a 50/50 mix of yellow wood glue and water. Use several coats, allowing them to dry between applications.

 

[Alex2507]

If the baffles had been slightly oversized ...

You can still grow the baffles with edge banding or hardwood nosing on the flat part contrasting/highlighting/showcasing the baffle. To me having the baffle like a 1/16" - 1/8" proud or shy of the rest of the enclosure is all good and much more forgiving of imperfections than trying for and falling short of perfection while striving for flush flush conditions.

Regarding finishes ... have you considered giving your brother in law a can of polyurethane and a brush as stocking stuffers?

 

[lsiberian]

You can still grow the baffles with edge banding or hardwood nosing on the flat part contrasting/highlighting/showcasing the baffle. To me having the baffle like a 1/16" - 1/8" proud or shy of the rest of the enclosure is all good and much more forgiving of imperfections than trying for and falling short of perfection while striving for flush flush conditions.

Regarding finishes ... have you considered giving your brother in law a can of polyurethane and a brush as stocking stuffers?

That certainly makes sense. Especially the stocking stuffer idea.

 

[baniels]

I decided to take a somewhat easy course. The results are decent so far - another week or so and I think they'll be pretty good (considering the exposed edges of the ply).

I wasn't sure if I was going to dye/stain, so I started with Zinsser SealCoat dewaxed shellac. I read that this can help prevent blotchiness. After some scrap tests, I decided to go with a simple minwax wipe on poly that I had in my garage.

I've got 4 coats on one pair so far, and 1 on the other.

No pictures - Fail.

 

[baniels]

Six coats now, with a somewhat heavy sanding with a fine pad after the 5th.

You can see how reflective it is on the visible side in the middle. I think I'm happy with the finish with one exception. After each coat there is always a slight roughness, or little pinpoint bumps (see zoom in lower right corner). It doesn't take much sanding with fine paper to remove them, but the resulting surface is then not as glossy. When I throw on another coat, the gloss is restored. My guess is that the dullness comes not from removing the poly, but from it becoming lightly scored and scuffed.

My plan is to finish off with some clear Trewax (mostly carnauba). I'm curious to know if I can expect the wax to restore the gloss that is lost by the light sanding I do to get it close to glass-smooth. Anyone know?

Any other thoughts or recommendations? More poly coats?

 

[Alex2507]

I don't think poly or any oil based finish will stick to wax so be sure you're all done with the poly before you put wax on it. Are you sanding and using tack cloth in between coats?

There are finer and finer levels to sanding/polishing that will restore the sheen of poly but a MinWax spray can final application of poly might be what you're after.

I just ran into this from MinWax and thought it might have some info for you depending where you're at with all that.

 

[baniels]

The wax is going to be the final application - I wasn't planning to poly over it - more curious to know if the wax will "undo" the matte from the last light sanding, just like the next coat of poly does.

I have been sanding every one or two coats - but only lightly, with a grey fine scotch brite type pad.

Am I better off using some sandpaper between coats? 400-600, 800 grit?

 

[Alex2507]

Am I better off using some sandpaper between coats? 400-600, 800 grit?

That MinWax page I linked said 220 grit in between every coat. Give that a read.

Sand between coats. Using 220-grit paper helps ensure good adhesion and smooths away imperfections.

Wipe after sanding. Dust interferes with adhesion and leaves unsightly bumps in the finish. Use a cloth dampened with mineral spirits on oil-based finishes;

I say use tack cloth after the mineral spirits wipe. I'm personally against wax and silicone on wood. It's too final. I think one of those spray cans will get you what you're after in a final application sheen wise. When I first started refinishing furniture I was totally after the high gloss final result but since then I have come to view low gloss finishes as more refined/sophisticated. They are certainly more forgiving.

 

[baniels]

I'll give that a try tonight and see how well it smooths down.

I'm in agreement about a more natural finish in general. I've finished stave drums with Maloof and Waterlox with excellent results, but that was solid black walnut and bubinga --- much easier to get a nice finish than the outer ply on BB. The gloss of the poly at least makes it look like there's something going on with the finish - or somehow helps me to forget it's just a plywood box.

That MinWax page I linked said 220 grit in between every coat. Give that a read.

I say use tack cloth after the mineral spirits wipe. I'm personally against wax and silicone on wood. It's too final. I think one of those spray cans will get you what you're after in a final application sheen wise. When I first started refinishing furniture I was totally after the high gloss final result but since then I have come to view low gloss finishes as more refined/sophisticated. They are certainly more forgiving.

 

[baniels]

The first pair are complete. They're pretty vanilla looking, but I'm happy with the way the poly turned out. I'm far more impressed with the sound, though. These things sound MUCH bigger than their size would let on.

My wife came in the house when I was giving them their first test. She did a double take when she noticed I wasn't listening to my usual mains.

My apologies for the cell pics.

 

[lsiberian]

The first pair are complete. They're pretty vanilla looking, but I'm happy with the way the poly turned out. I'm far more impressed with the sound, though. These things sound MUCH bigger than their size would let on.

My wife came in the house when I was giving them their first test. She did a double take when she noticed I wasn't listening to my usual mains.

You might want to get that white spot cleaned up.

Nothing is quite like a pair you put blood, sweat and tears into.

 

[Alex2507]

Thanks for the pic's.
Give us a run down on your finishing procedure with tips and tricks if you have time.

 

[baniels]

The white spot on the monitor? I think you were imagining things. I don't see a white spot.

You might want to get that white spot cleaned up.

 

[adwilk]

 

[baniels]

^ Bring it

 

[Adam]

^ Bring it

You're either very brave, very drunk, or very stupid.