Looking for physical switch for amp outputs to speakers

H

HarryK

Enthusiast
At 500 watts, those speakers will be pumping out about 120 dB.
Actually it depends on the model and the room they are in (and if you are measuring 500W at the amp, and if it's an averaged needle level, and if it accounts for lower impedances for which driver, and what cable/connections you are using, and passive or active crossover, and at which frequencies, etc.), but the ADS specs would put it at about 117 db or 122 db, depending which model we are talking about. Either way, it's really loud, and would be painful if sustained. But under the right conditions I could see peaks that high...

Also, it's not true that 500W will destroy these tweeters. I know of someone who put 2,500 watts *direct* into these tweeters with no harm at all.

I keep saying it depends on what you are doing.

To use a comment made earlier, what we need here are more physics.
It's a matter of thermal dissipation. There is a limit, but it's not anywhere near as simple as putting a single number of watts down on paper and you are done considering the limit.

I have personally melted more than one ADS tweeter and woofer, so am aware it can be done. :)

Which is why I keep saying I want 500W available as *peak power*, and for *headroom*, NOT because I want to set it at "500W of output" (whatever that means) and sit for tea while it's playing.
By the way, my current amp is capable of over 200W of clean power and I have clipped it. That means I need a minimum of 400W to create an audible increase in headroom.


For this statement:
"There is no circuit that allows active bi-amping without removing the passive crossover in a speaker from the circuit."
I agree, I was just responding to what sounded like a comment that you had to physically remove it from the cabinet.


In any case, I can only say thank you to all who are trying to keep me from doing something stupid with some really nice speakers. But then I have been known to be difficult to talk out of stupid ideas in the past.......

Last comment.
I think I found what I'm looking for. Finally went to an electronics supply store and they gave me what I wanted.
Now I just have to build the box and wiring around it, and yes I will be careful before flipping the switch.
switch found!
 
Last edited:
H

HarryK

Enthusiast
A/B switches are a bad idea anyway, and another of my many gripes about receivers. I have never seen A/B switches on beefy amps.
Depends what you mean by "beefy".
The Sansui AU-20000, and even their BA-3000 has that switch.

I would call the BA-3000 pretty beefy, but I see your point, and respect your comment.

The BA-5000 was their beefiest, and they deleted the A-B switch on that model, confirming your statement.
 
jonnythan

jonnythan

Audioholic Ninja
But under the right conditions I could see peaks that high...

Which is why I keep saying I want 500W available as *peak power*, and for *headroom*,
"I need to push 500W RMS with peaks much higher" you said ;)
 
H

HarryK

Enthusiast
"I need to push 500W RMS with peaks much higher" you said ;)
I guess I did. Oh well, a stupid thing to say and now I see I caused a lot of the conflict here. But I was thinking it's not hard to hit 100W avg levels for short periods, and that means 1,000W for the peaks is needed.

Besides, as I mentioned earlier I've already clipped an amp capable of over 200W into this load, so that vindicates me right there on peak power availability needed should be 500 to 1,000.

"one test is worth a thousand expert opinions".
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
Why you bothered coming back here is beyond me. You just stir the pot to see what happens.
 
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