When choosing a sub/subs.....

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Ironman129

Audioholic Intern
So I am putting together my list for my new HT system and narrowing down the components and speakers. My question is should I wait until i decide what speakers I have for my fronts then decide on a sub that will work well with them, or will the speaker brand not matter much for the sub? I will have at MOST $1000 for the sub, so should I get the best sub I can at that price and try to get a second identical in the next 6 months to a year, or start off the bat with 2 $500 subs? Use is 50/50 music and movies, and smaller sized room
 
F

FirstReflection

AV Rant Co-Host
The only time where I'd suggest that you need to know your speakers before you decide on a sub is if you are getting speakers that have a high roll-off point - ie. speakers that cannot reach down to 80Hz. So, for example, if you are getting some tiny "satellite" speakers that can only reach down to 200Hz or something, then you would need a subwoofer that can reach up that high so that you do not have a giant "hole" in the frequency response.

But that is certainly undesireable. You want speakers that can reach down to 80Hz. Otherwise, if you demand that your subwoofer play considerably higher than 80Hz, you're going to be able to pin point the location of your subwoofer in the room, which you are not supposed to be able to do.

So hopefully, since you are trying to put together a good sound system, you will end up selecting speakers that can play nice and flat down to 80Hz or lower. That being the case, your choice of subwoofer does not have to wait for your choice of speakers. The brand does not have to match at all. And so long as your speakers can reach down to 80Hz, you can go ahead and decide on a great subwoofer before you decide on your speakers!

With a small room and a 50/50 music/movies system and a $1000 budget for the sub(s), I could certainly recommend getting a pair of Rythmik FV12. And, to be honest, that might actually be your best choice because, IMO, the next truly worthwhile upgrade in subwoofers would be to an SVSound PB12-Plus DSP or Rythmik FV15HP, both of which are over your $1000 budget and both of which are physically quite large and capable of way more output than you would need in a small room.

A single, sealed Rythmik F15 would be about the only single, more expensive subwoofer option that I might recommend in your situation.

So between the pair of Rythmik FV12 and the lone Rythmik F15, it's going to come down to placement options and where you are sitting as well as how many people will be listening in your theater.

Dual subs do not automatically improve the evenness of the bass throughout the room. You have to position them correctly in order to accomplish that - and every room is unique in terms of the correct placement for two subs to work together to create nice, smooth, even frequency response at multiple seating locations. Basically, what I'm saying is that the simple act of getting two subwoofers instead of one is NOT a guarantee that you'll get more even frequency response at multiple seats.

If you really mostly watch/listen by yourself, then a lone subwoofer, positioned carefully and with a minor amount of EQ can deliver very smooth, even, flat frequency response for your lone "sweet spot" seat. Other seats in the theater won't get the same frequency response, but if you mostly watch on your own, this isn't much of a concern.

So basically, if you mostly watch alone and you have limited options on where you can place the sub, I'd recommend getting just the one subwoofer. The F15 is an improvement over the FV12. It's got a bit better delineation and it's a little bit "tighter" and more tuneful. But make no mistake, the FV12 is a very good subwoofer and we're only talking small improvements here. But given that 50% of your listening is music, you might enjoy the small improvement in bass quality that the F15 offers for its higher price.

If you have multiple listeners and multiple seats, then the pair of FV12 COULD be the better choice. IF you can place them well within your room, they can offer a more even frequency response across your multiple seats. As I said, the FV12 is a very good subwoofer - an almost ideal choice for both music and movies as it can play low and loud for movies, but also be tight, accurate and tuneful for music.

Hope that helps!
 
agarwalro

agarwalro

Audioholic Ninja
and smaller sized room
A good $1000 sub in a "smaller sized room" should be more than sufficient by itself. Dual subs would be overkill. To give an IRL comparison, I have a 12" sub that sufficiently pressureizes a 30x30x7 space.
 
I

Ironman129

Audioholic Intern
A good $1000 sub in a "smaller sized room" should be more than sufficient by itself. Dual subs would be overkill. To give an IRL comparison, I have a 12" sub that sufficiently pressureizes a 30x30x7 space.
My room is definitely smaller than 30x30. do you mind if i ask what sub you have?
 
agarwalro

agarwalro

Audioholic Ninja
My room is definitely smaller than 30x30. do you mind if i ask what sub you have?
Dude! It's in the sig :rolleyes: LOL!!!

It is on sale and there are pics in the AH Classifieds listing.

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/classifieds-sell-your-gear/76284-fs-svs-pb-12-ultra-piano-black.html

And, some pics to save you the travel time...

1) Opened boxes and behold the beauty... removed bass plate


2) Closeup of finish. The texture you see is the reflection of the ceiling!


3) Removed bass plate on the Rosewood sub. Let the surgery begin


4) The TV-12 Ultra subwoofer speaker. That thing is a beast.


5) Final stages of the heart transplant. Things are heading towards a success


6) Ah! All done and I have a sore back by now...


7) Now to fill the hole. (Keen eyes will notice the "Axiom FMS QS" stands)


8) Order is restored.


My wife walks in, she is not expecting the Black Piano Gloss finish. Her reaction sums it all, "THAT IS GORGEOUS!!", :D.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Sub selection is a difficult process for most home setups unless you have a dedicated room because they must fit in with living room decor. The best sub is one with a large port and quality driver. Unfortunately life is full of compromise. Sealed subs are a compromise because the box size limits your output down low. SVS is the gold standard sub manufacturer in the 3rd party tests I've seen. I realize there are many great sub makers out there, but I would definitely limit choices to tried and true brands. SVS, HSU, JL Audio(for Sealed), Epik and a few others make great subs.

Dual subs is great if you set it up properly. AH has some great articles on that, but I can say I use a single sealed sub and it delivers incredible sound. Mind you it's a top line driver, but the point is that in practice a single sub of sufficient quality often does the job. If I were buying a sub it would be an SVS. For a home theater setup their speakers do a fantastic job too.

My general system recommendation is an Infinity Primus setup up front, an SVS sub and an accessories4less refurb Onkyo. For surrounds nearly any 100 dollar a pair speaker will do.

This setup would be better than anyone else's I know personally outside this forum.

Of course have fun shopping around, but at the end of the day know you can always go the lower cost route and still get incredible quality.
 
GranteedEV

GranteedEV

Audioholic Ninja
A good $1000 sub in a "smaller sized room" should be more than sufficient by itself. Dual subs would be overkill. To give an IRL comparison, I have a 12" sub that sufficiently pressureizes a 30x30x7 space.
You don't get dual subs for more output (and I beg to differ on the 12" sub part, but I suppose our definitions of overkill differ.. I want a sub that won't have any high pass filter in place, indicating that anything in the recording won't be lopped off), you get them to flat out the frequency response across multiple seats.

I would recommend two $1000 subs. That's a doubling of the budget, but the rewards would be well worth it all things considered, the results of subs are a very good place to spend money, after speakers. The depth and output of a $1000 sub, and the inherent flattened frequency response of having two distinct sources of bass loading the room.

Are Two Subwoofers Better than One? — Reviews and News from Audioholics

I definitely strongly recommend something like 2X Rythmik FV15 rather than a single.
 
agarwalro

agarwalro

Audioholic Ninja
I suppose our definitions of overkill differ..
A 'Thanks' for not starting a flame war. Here is why I believe the 12" SVS is overkill in my situation :eek:. I have never bottomed it out and when I am playing my favorite movie or dubstep tracks, it seems nowhere near its max even when it seems my muscles are being flapped right off the bones. But, the SQ is sublime on any music I throw at it, and that is worth a lot more to me than extension below 20Hz. Just my take.

I would recommend two $1000 subs... The depth and output of a $1000 sub, and the inherent flattened frequency response of having two distinct sources of bass loading the room.
I completely agree with this statement.

I would have loved to see a single $2500 sub also tested. My thought process being, either someone will buy 1 sub with the intent of adding a matching second (or buy both together) or buy the biggest baddest sub in their budget with the intent of keeping it solo.
 
GranteedEV

GranteedEV

Audioholic Ninja
A 'Thanks' for not starting a flame war.
Everyone has their opinions. I only take exception to mis-facts, not different opinions.

Here is why I believe the 12" SVS is overkill in my situation :eek:. I have never bottomed it out and when I am playing my favorite movie or dubstep tracks, it seems nowhere near its max even when it seems my muscles are being flapped right off the bones.
Here's the problem with commercial subs. They're often designed to never give you indication that they're hitting their limits. So the content material might be a 15hz, 115db + 25hz 120db tone, but the circuitry in the sub decides that's too much for the sub to handle, and reduces that to like 15hz / 80db and 25hz / 110db. It's still a lot of bass, but it's being compressed. To me an ideal subwoofer system doesn't do anything to the signal that isn't already there. If you were to hook up the driver in your svs to a 1000w amp with no other circuitry, would the results be identical?

But, the SQ is sublime on any music I throw at it, and that is worth a lot more to me than extension below 20Hz. Just my take.
And that's fine, but if there's content below 20hz, your sub is removing it in order to protect itself. More importantly, because you only have one sub, I strongly doubt you have the best SQ you could get, even with the heavy EQ alluded to earlier. With one sub i've measured a ton of different placement locations and never found anything close to +/- 3db frequency response tolerance.

I would have loved to see a single $2500 sub also tested.
The $2500 sub would still have had the ragged frequency response caused by the ROOM....

buy the biggest baddest sub in their budget with the intent of keeping it solo.
I absolutely disagree with this approach. It'll get you deeper, but it won't get you better SQ.
 
agarwalro

agarwalro

Audioholic Ninja
I want a sub that won't have any high pass filter in place, indicating that anything in the recording won't be lopped off),
I understand and agree with your principle to have a sub that is not limited by electronics (and/or driver capabilities). In fact, I am sure this is the end game for everyone on AH, to have a system without any limitation, or the best while considering limitations like, budget, WAF, geographic location, etc.

In context of subs with intentionally limited lower extension due to High pass filter, I can site content that has signal at 5Hz. To extend your thought process, it is reasonable to expect that a given sub must handle any signal down to 1Hz with playback at Reference Levels while keeping distortion below threshold of perception. Since cost and/or size are usually the first considerations, there will be a tradeoff between SPL and extension. (All subs have seemingly huge distortion, albeit, below threshold of perception, which is a well understood and accepted tradeoff.) (There are folks who purchase/DIY build a speaker/sub with no consideration for cost and/or size, while only considering prestine sound quality, I have yet to meet anyone in my circle with this level of means.) (I want a display with the Black Levels equivalent a Black Hole’s Event Horizon :D.)
but if there's content below 20hz, your sub is removing it in order to protect itself.
Somewhat correct because the roll off is not a step function and there are room and placement gains to be optimized. Further, this is not correct in case of the SVS subs when tuned for extension rather than SPL. SVS's (including mine) have a port tuning option (plugging the ports) with an adjustable setting for the low end HP filter's frequency. Mine is set for 15Hz ("The -6 dB point goes as low as 12.5 Hz which easily transfers into 10 Hz extension in a typical room", tested and plotted here). The SVS is designed to give the user the some flexibility in the tradeoff between SPL and extension (and using good design the distortion is already limited to below threshold of human perception), all the while ensuring that the amp and driver continue to operate within their specified limits. This concept is no different to a bookshelf speaker manufacturer having low end HP filter at 80 or 100Hz. I concede that those bookshelf speakers require a sub. (But, you have introduced signal processing by way of a crossover and summation of the L+R signals to a sub. I address that later.)
It's still a lot of bass, but it's being compressed.
I understand what you mean here, but, audio signal compression is a form of data processing designed to reduce the transmission bandwidth requirement of digital audio streams and the storage size of audio files. Information is intentionally removed (tradeoff between required transmission bandwidth/storage size and signal integrity aka quality). “Compressed” may not be the most appropriate term, rather, ‘processed’ which could mean, signal level is reduced. And that is exactly what is happening with a HP filter. The signal below the pass frequency is processed by way of being attenuated, not compressed. There is still output below the HP setting, and its level depends on the slope of the HP filter, box tuning, driver and amp.

To me an ideal subwoofer system doesn't do anything to the signal that isn't already there.
But then, how do you feel about room effect correction via, Audessy or YPAO or parametric EQs using a DCX2496. They are changing the signal information from how it was before ‘processing’, the signal has been changed. A Low Pass filter on the sub will change the signal, do you run yours without a crossover? Anyone setting their speakers to "small" has introcuded processing too. I suppose not all processing is bad, as they say, "use with caution" ;).

If you were to hook up the driver in your svs to a 1000w amp with no other circuitry, would the results be identical?
Since the driver is designed to work with 500W max, I am sure a full power signal from a 1000W amp will fry the voice coil or rip the surround by pushing it beyond x-max. But, irrespective of the amp, controlled measurements on the driver will yield identical results assuming it is operating inside the manufacturer specified limits. Further, if the SVS box and driver are fixed in this experiment and tested under controlled conditions, the combination will yield fairly consistent reproducable results with different amps (assuming the amps are themselves not introducing variables).
More importantly, because you only have one sub, I strongly doubt you have the best SQ you could get, even with the heavy EQ alluded to earlier. With one sub i've measured a ton of different placement locations and never found anything close to +/- 3db frequency response tolerance.
And this is also true, my sub is equalized for the primacy listening position only (with my tradeoff being that I don’t care if others are not getting +/- 3dB down to 15Hz, because no one I know is as AH as me). I had used some room treatments and eq to control the peaks. And yes, my FR plots still leave a lot to be desired because my room is far from perfect.

The $2500 sub would still have had the ragged frequency response caused by the ROOM.... I absolutely disagree with this approach.
100% agree with you, but it still happens. Rather than get 2x$1000 subs, folks will get 1x$2000 sub for brand/bragging rights/perceived benefits. We are fortunate to have built up our knowledge and now understand the tradeoffs, most don’t. (I intended to have a 2nd Ultra within a year of the 1st, but priorities changed :mad:.)
 
jonnythan

jonnythan

Audioholic Ninja
You don't get dual subs for more output (and I beg to differ on the 12" sub part, but I suppose our definitions of overkill differ.. I want a sub that won't have any high pass filter in place, indicating that anything in the recording won't be lopped off), you get them to flat out the frequency response across multiple seats.

I would recommend two $1000 subs. That's a doubling of the budget, but the rewards would be well worth it all things considered, the results of subs are a very good place to spend money, after speakers. The depth and output of a $1000 sub, and the inherent flattened frequency response of having two distinct sources of bass loading the room.

Are Two Subwoofers Better than One? — Reviews and News from Audioholics

I definitely strongly recommend something like 2X Rythmik FV15 rather than a single.
I'm starting to think your standard advice is "double your stated max budget" ;)
 
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GranteedEV

GranteedEV

Audioholic Ninja
Most people's budgets never match their expectations. OP was willing to spend 2K on a receiver but only 1K on subs? i don't believe in spending more if the performance doesn't scale, but if it does then a person should make the investment. Realistically if I wouldn't be happy with something, I could not expect another person to be.

If the budget already exceeds the expectations then of course i recommend one stay within budget. most of the time it's the other way around.
 
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M

MidnightSensi2

Audioholic Chief
I'm another fan of two subwoofers in exchange for extension. Also, if you don't take the full 6dB the extra sub gives you, you can gain extension through having multiple subwoofers by using equalization/DSP. I.e. don't double your output, gain 25% more output and use the rest for extension and see which you prefer. (you'll likely gain a few extra Hz of usable output for the exchange).

In my experience, that last leg of extension isn't worth it until you can spend some dough. :)
 
agarwalro

agarwalro

Audioholic Ninja
Most people's budgets never match their expectations... i don't believe in spending more if the performance doesn't scale, but if it does then a person should make the investment... If the budget already exceeds the expectations then of course i recommend one stay within budget. most of the time it's the other way around.
So true. I believe, on AH the standard recommendation for someone starting from scratch is, 60% speakers 40% everything else. Very easy to say and very tough to convince someone to abide by it.
 
M

MidnightSensi2

Audioholic Chief
So true. I believe, on AH the standard recommendation for someone starting from scratch is, 60% speakers 40% everything else. Very easy to say and very tough to convince someone to abide by it.
Also, we all have budgets, but there are short term and long term budgets.

I started like most (budget receiver and speakers), upgrading as that budget raised (like, got a job hehe).

Later I found that it's better to save up for a longer time, and buy good speakers and amplifiers, because the stuff doesn't really date. A good speaker from 10 years ago is still a good speaker today, frankly. And, while their efficiency has increased, a good amplifier from 10 years ago is still a good amplifier today. What changes is preprocessors, sources and displays/projectors.

So, the short term might be cheaper, but if you quickly outgrow it, then it becomes more expensive than just saving longer (i know it is painful to wait, trust me) and getting the right stuff from the get go. It saves you money in the long run.

To sum it up a bit:

I think people should look at purchasing a home theater as more like a year purchase than a one time purchase. A year of saving, within your budget, and consciously cutting unnecessary to get the right stuff (hey, not stopping at starbucks for a few months adds up! make your own lunch for a few months equals a lot of money). Oh, figure out what stuff in your house you haven't been using, and sell it. It's just sitting there anyways. Doing stuff like that might push what is possible from the get-go, and then in the long run you'll spend less (Because the initial budget system that you quickly outgrow you'll skip).

Just my opinion. :)
 
walter duque

walter duque

Audioholic Samurai
So true. I believe, on AH the standard recommendation for someone starting from scratch is, 60% speakers 40% everything else. Very easy to say and very tough to convince someone to abide by it.
I think your'e dead on with your 60/40. I spend on my system (which is old now 10+ years 13k for speakers and 8k for amplification. It seems to me a lot of people spend a lot on speakers and then they buy a cheap AVR and at the end they are disappointed with the sound considering the money they spend.
 
agarwalro

agarwalro

Audioholic Ninja
To sum it up a bit:

I think people should look at purchasing a home theater as more like a year purchase than a one time purchase. A year of saving... to get the right stuff.
100% on the money.

All the big AH preaching aside, I recent failed miserably on all counts. A friend who was blown away with my setup decided to get his own system going. Long story short, I could not convince him to not buy from a local B&M store, I could not convince him to spend more on the speakers, I could not convince him to stagger his purchases. I spent days researching for him, but he ended up getting what he wanted. Thankfully, I was able to curtail his need for Monster Cables and counter the salesman on the 15ft $150 HDMI cable.

Then we spent 2 days mounting, wiring and setting everything up and we got pissed drunk playing PS3 and smack talking each other :D.
 
GranteedEV

GranteedEV

Audioholic Ninja
So true. I believe, on AH the standard recommendation for someone starting from scratch is, 60% speakers 40% everything else. Very easy to say and very tough to convince someone to abide by it.
I would say it's case by case dependant exactly what the ;proportion; needs to be. But as a general rule i think us AHers just have a good feel for how to put together a system that people would be more than satisfied with =)

I mean I understand where Walter is coming from but you also have to consider something like Geddes' system with a $200 Pioneer receiver, that impresses just about everyone that auditions with its limitlessness.
 
agarwalro

agarwalro

Audioholic Ninja
consider something like Geddes' system with a $200 Pioneer receiver, that impresses just about everyone that auditions with its limitlessness.
I'm intrigued but have no clue where to look for it :confused:.
 
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