speaker wire through EMT

[kenzaoe]

hi all. question on running speaker wire through conduit.

I am running speaker wires (3 of them, 10awg) some in the wall and some outside, over the roof through 3/4" EMT with Raintight couplings. See a schematic here:

imagebin.org/173443

I have the walls open to studs and before adding drywall I want to run all necessary wires. My house is a flat roof, no attic and the walls have patio doors and lots of large fixed glass so this is the _only way_. (an Eichler for the connoisseurs

The wire ends on the amp side will come out of the wall through recessed cover plates ( amazon.com/dp/B00193U3O0/ ) that cover those low-voltage orange boxes from HD. On the other end the wires will connect to in-wall speakers.

What are the code requirements for California or other placesfor the conduit ends ? Do I need metallic boxes in the wall on each end? (green boxes in my schematic) What about grounding that conduit in case lightning strikes?
Those metallic boxes are usually used for high voltage and have a green screw where the ground wire goes.

Many thanks

 

[Rickster71]

Add this to the end of the EMT and then add a blue plastic screw on bushing to the threads you see in the picture.
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/248957936/EMT_Connector_emt_fittings.html
and this:
http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/14-47-plastic-conduit-bushings/plastic-insulating-bushing-666208.aspx
They also make a plastic insert that doesn't require the connector on the end, like this:
http://www.garvinindustries.com/Electrical-Fittings/EMT-Conduit-Fittings/Insulating-Bushings/IB-100
The connector works better to terminate in a box or if the low voltage ring had flange to accept a connector.

 

[kenzaoe]

thanks Rickster, that's a good solution.
i think for grounding i am just going to clamp a grounding wire from one end of the conduit

 

[96cobra10101]

hi all. question on running speaker wire through conduit.

I am running speaker wires (3 of them, 10awg) some in the wall and some outside, over the roof through 3/4" EMT with Raintight couplings. See a schematic here:

imagebin.org/173443

I have the walls open to studs and before adding drywall I want to run all necessary wires. My house is a flat roof, no attic and the walls have patio doors and lots of large fixed glass so this is the _only way_. (an Eichler for the connoisseurs

The wire ends on the amp side will come out of the wall through recessed cover plates ( amazon.com/dp/B00193U3O0/ ) that cover those low-voltage orange boxes from HD. On the other end the wires will connect to in-wall speakers.

What are the code requirements for California or other placesfor the conduit ends ? Do I need metallic boxes in the wall on each end? (green boxes in my schematic) What about grounding that conduit in case lightning strikes?
Those metallic boxes are usually used for high voltage and have a green screw where the ground wire goes.

Many thanks

I am guessing you're using sealtight connectors and couplers for your outdoor runs. You could also just use PVC. Not the white, the grey stuff and they sell it at home depot and lowes. It has premade 45's, and 90's. Your inside walls don't need conduit or flex. You can use smurf tube and plastic boxes and connectors. They're all blue, and HD and Lowes carry them. Or you could name a price and I could do the work for you. I do commercial network installs for a living.

 

[Rickster71]

After re-reading your question I realized some of it went unanswered.

What are the code requirements for California or other places for the conduit ends ?

Within the Code there's a part that reads "The local Authority has Jurisdiction"
If your work is being inspected, they could have you do things above and beyond what the code calls for.
So what's required for me here in NJ could be above or below your local town's requirements.
Though neither one can be below what the National Code requires, only above it. [/QUOTE]

Do I need metallic boxes in the wall on each end?

No, metal or plastic boxes aren't required. A trim ring with a flange to accept the EMT connector is all that's needed. You can even just go with just a trim ring and terminate near the ring.

I was going to recommend PVC also, but I was under the impression you had already had done most of the EMT install.
If you haven't used the rain-tight EMT connector and couplings before, chances are you won't get the water tight. They are a little tricky for someone that isn't used to them.
PVC wouldn't have to be grounded and it's easier to pull through, and there is a better chance your joints will be water tight.
Keep the 90 degree bends to a minimum.
Good Luck!

 

[kenzaoe]

yes i have already pulled EMT with water tight connectors... they were tricky until i got the hang of it

i was under the impression PVC is only for underground installation ?

also for 120V electricians pull separate 14 or 12-gauge stranded wires for neutral, hot, ground.. so the cables are not in the jacket. my blue jeans cables are in a jacket of course that's rated CL2 (75C) so i probably want to keep the jacket because the cable goes also through the wall with no conduit around it. right?

thanks all for your input

 

[Rickster71]

I'd keep the CL2 jacket for where it goes through the wall without conduit.
That should be an interesting pull, 3 pair of 10AWG with a CL2 jackets in 3/4' conduit. Or are these bundled in one jacket?
How many bends?

 

[96cobra10101]

If I were you I would just get the smurf tube for added protection in the ceiling and walls, plus if you want to add or change wiring later you have a cable path made. For the wall outlet hole I would get Erico MPLS's. You can get them at Graybar and there cheaper than remodel boxes. There 100 times more secure than the crappy cut in rings that you just bend the metal around the drywall. MPLS actually secure with 2 screws. They come in single and double gang