Revel F52, PSB Synch 1 owners feedback please

AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
Not to take us off topic here, but this $6k monoblock:

http://advance-acoustic.com/en/produits/index/detail/id/18/sec/1

is internally identical to an XPA-1. It was probably made in the same factory and designed by the same guy.
Why do they call it a MAA "1000" when it can only output 400 Watts at 8 Ohms and 550 Watts at 4 Ohms?

Heck, my AT3005 can do more than that with one channel driven.:D

The one unique thing about that Bryston flagship monoblock is that it can output a full 1,000 watts into 8 ohms.:D

Are we off topic now?:D
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
Just for the curious... The 800 dollar amp I had in mind was this beast.

Absolutely top notch build quality and parts tolerances, 5 year warranty, and beautiful aesthetics.

http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?cPath=146&products_id=671
Beautiful aeshetics?

You are kidding, right?:D

No offense or anything, but that looks like...hmmm....not so good.:D

I prefer the aesthetics of the Bryston amp with those large metal handles in the front, kind of like my ATI amps.:D

After I saw those Brystons large amp handles, I had to find amps with large front handles too.:D

Okay, it's your fault, we are now WAY off topic.:eek:
 
GranteedEV

GranteedEV

Audioholic Ninja
Neither him or I know anything about building one from scratch
He already knows more about it than I did when I made my sub box :eek: ... I bet he even has tools!

The #1 thing about subwoofer boxes is bracing. I would recommend a cross-brace at every roughly 8-10 inches.

some really high quality walnut HDF he wants to put a gloss finish on. 8 cu feet. for 15" LMS-R 15?
I hope you have a forklift :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

Any tips on what kind of driver, porting, and volume I should go with if I do one in the front left corner, and another on the left, and a little ways behind the sitting area?
Come on down to the AH DIY forum and we'll model different drivers, enclosure sizes, and enclosure types for you. Some guys have better programs they actually paid for, but I can run you through some winISD models myself.

Thoughts on downfiring?
It depends on the driver's sag factor, and there's a program that can calculate that quickly for you. Personally I'm just not comfortable with downfiring. The idea's always at the back of my head that eventually the spider is going to get damaged after a long time. But people not only do it but have great success with it. I'm just paranoid.

I watched a youtube video of that LMS-5400, actually wrinkling the body panels of the SUV it was in the back of... I'm looking for some good room pressurization/impact and something that can go low enough for any movie soundtrack... but not something that's just rediculously out of balance with the rest of my system.
The first key to balance is calibration. If the sub is calibrated to the same level as your mains, it'll never be an issue. Where something like an LMS-5400 gets useful, is on the loudest transient peaks in music as well as the dynamic range of subwoofer content in movie LFE which is up to 10db louder. If your processor is calibrated well, you'll have a hack of an experience because essentially all of the drivers I recommend earlier are very linear and low distortion.

My main reason for wanting to go with two isn't so much for an increase an output, but for even room coverage.
Excellent. The other key to balance is to deal with the room. I would even go with four lesser 15" subs (like the Exodus Tempest X2 perhaps?) if room placement allows it over two superior subs. Seal those up and you would not only get great in-room sound but also deep deep extension.

I want to avoid like the plague, a one tone droning subwoofer as I'd like to use something of a quality to compliment but not offend the rest of the system.
Good :D

DIYCable.com is that one sub amp he shows there junk? Never heard of it before.
Kevin Haskins does not sell junk. Everything on his website is excellent, although some of his cable parts are on the overpriced side compared to a monoprice or something. With that said I don't know if 1000w is enough for some of the lower sensitivity drivers we're using. For some it is, for others you end up hitting the amplifier limits before hitting the driver limits... which is fine, I guess, but kind of irritating.

What a lot of us do is run the subs "passive" off of a pro-amp. AH actually just reviewed a funkywaves sub the other day:

http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/speakers/subwoofers/fw-12.x

It's passively run off of a high power pro-amp just like we recommend. THat however is the 12" LMS-R, and us, well we're a bit greedier :eek:

I'm also still looking for some more suggestions on reasonably priced, reliable, high quality amplification
Honestly, Parasound, Emotiva, Outlaw and ATI B-Stock are all rather great choices. I would also consider the Face Audio amp I recommended earlier but that gets into pro-amp territory and the biggest drawback with them is that at lowest listening levels you might run into some fan noise if the amp is in the same room. The big advantage of the pro amps is that they're more than often 2 ohm stable so you can run virtually any speaker off of them. That and an abundance of watts. THe Face in particular is very low-noise... it's almost designed like a high end audiophile amp . And yes, ADTG, i think those aesthetics are gorgeous. I'm a sucker for a good champagne finish. One day i'm going to waste like 8k on a marantz sa-11s2.

If the amp is in a closet you're probably home free. Another option is quiet-fan mods, which a lot of us are guilty of as home amps don't need fans the way constantly max-power pro amps do.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=976373


Of course I still lean the way of home amps myself. But if I ever get a "dedicated" HT room, that face is at the top of my list.
 
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Beatmatcher247

Full Audioholic
One of those Face Audio F500TS for each sub would be a great way to go?

Now amplification for the PSB Synchrony 1 towers, pair of bookshelves, and center? Which face models would you suggest for these. The towers really like power.

What kind of rack would you recommend?
 
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GranteedEV

GranteedEV

Audioholic Ninja
One of those Face Audio F500TS for each sub would be a great way to go?
If going face for a SUB amp, I would go with a Face Audio F1200TS and drive a sub off of each channel. IT will give you an honest ~1000+w into each channel into 4 ohms IIRC. And if you ever want more power, you could get a second one and bridge these beasts for around 2700wRMS IIRC. The watts are necessary because the best drivers we use are not very sensitive yet movies can call for high output during special effects. If you're willing to sacrifice some output near 20hz you can go with some acoustic elegance drivers which are excellent and more sensitive. Again, it all depends on the driver you use and that's why we have to make sure we've selected the driver that you feel will work best for your situation. The Maelstrom-X 21" for example is a driver I can only dream of, but the compromise there is box size. The overall picture is important in determining the right driver and amp for you.

What a lot of us use are chinese built pro amps. The most popular of which is the Behringer EP2500. I use a Tapco J2500. Both are reverse engineered QSC2450s, which have better build quality and higher cost if that means anything to you. If i could afford it though the Face TS1200 would be my choice, although I would probably start looking into the best Marathon and Crest amps at that point.
 
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Beatmatcher247

Full Audioholic
Just how loud are the fans? They aren't as bad as a leaf blower are they?
 
GranteedEV

GranteedEV

Audioholic Ninja
Just how loud are the fans? They aren't as bad as a leaf blower are they?
Depends on what amp you've got. I dropped ~$400cdn shipped on my tapco from a refurb site and when I got it, it was reasonably LOUD.

Then I ordered a pair of 17db replacement fans, and I can only hear the fan when the PS3 fan isn't on, for a frame of reference. My laptop and PS3 are both louder and neither is particularily loud as a whole. It's ambient noise, just like a furnace duct or fridge.

I can't comment on the Face as I've never heard it. The fans necessary for the Behringer are not the same as the fans for my tapco. My tapco uses virtually off-the-shelf fans so I managed to get an amaazing high-CFM, low noise fan the likes of which may never be matched:

http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=21702

and it never gets warm.

Although I've also considered that watercooling this thing may in fact be an option.

In general, anything under about 30db should be fine. Some of these fans can get in the 40-60db range though and that's where you know you've got a problem. Try asking Kevin Haskins what he thinks. He's a very honest indivudal.
 
3db

3db

Audioholic Slumlord
The arguement of used was not part of initial discussion jinjuku. Even used I would get a Bryston because I know amplifiers can fail despite your experience of them not failing. Look what happened to AcuDef TEch and his new Denon. And warranties are transferable with Bryston.

I think its worth the price of admission alone to pay a little more upfront. Its certainly more viable than having that silly THX stamped on equipement. ;)
 
walter duque

walter duque

Audioholic Samurai
Now since you have your Synch 1's, what do you think?
 
3db

3db

Audioholic Slumlord
Any updates for us now that you have the Synchronies?
 
B

Beatmatcher247

Full Audioholic
Ordered Products, Complete 5.1 System:

Marantz AV7005 (this is going to take sometime, hopefully it ships today)
Cambridge 650 BD
Parasound New Classic 5250 V.2
PSB Synchrony 1 Towers
PSB Syncrony 1 C
PSB Syncrony 1 B's
(2) JL Audio Fathom F113 (3 weeks out)

The suspense of everything getting here on time and in one piece is killling me!!! lol
 
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