Power requirements for HT and surge/conditioning

[jsulse]

Trying to sort out the best possible way to power up the HT system I'm currently installing. The system consists of a Panny 65S2 plasma, Denon 4310 AVR, Bluray player, Dish network sat box, Wii gaming console, 2 Yamaha P3500S amps and 2 Hsu VFT-15s.
I have a dedicated 20 amp receptacle and a receptacle in a chain of receptacles wired around the room all powered thru a single 15 amp breaker. The subs will be on the 15 amp room receptable loop. Will I need to split the remaining load between these two receptacles? Been reading some interesting threads re: surge suppressors and amount of protection they acutally provide... Considering one of these surge protectors with voltage sensing because it could solve my problem of powering up the Yamaha amps which has no 12v trigger option. Basically, plug the AVR into the master receptacle and when it draws voltage it powers up other receptacles which the amps could be connected. Would the 20 amp breaker be enough for the AVR and amps? Yamaha's website lists the P3500S power draw at 5.8 amps @ 1/8 power which is "typical of program material with occasional clipping" and 12.8 amps @ 1/3 power which "represents program material with extremely heavy clipping". These surge suppressors are rated at 15 amps so concerned if they can handle the current draw. Wondering if I'll ever use all the the 12.8 amps without incurring serious hearing loss. Been looking at the Panamax M10-HT-PRO and M8-AV-PRO. Pricey units. Worth it or waste? Better options? Will affordable computer surge suppressor strips like Smart Strip
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Strip-LCG5-Auto-Switching-Technology/dp/B000L9635G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1297200951&sr=1-1-spell work for my needs? Would like to Keep It Simple and not get too envolved.

 

[highfigh]

Trying to sort out the best possible way to power up the HT system I'm currently installing. The system consists of a Panny 65S2 plasma, Denon 4310 AVR, Bluray player, Dish network sat box, Wii gaming console, 2 Yamaha P3500S amps and 2 Hsu VFT-15s.
I have a dedicated 20 amp receptacle and a receptacle in a chain of receptacles wired around the room all powered thru a single 15 amp breaker. The subs will be on the 15 amp room receptable loop. Will I need to split the remaining load between these two receptacles? Been reading some interesting threads re: surge suppressors and amount of protection they acutally provide... Considering one of these surge protectors with voltage sensing because it could solve my problem of powering up the Yamaha amps which has no 12v trigger option. Basically, plug the AVR into the master receptacle and when it draws voltage it powers up other receptacles which the amps could be connected. Would the 20 amp breaker be enough for the AVR and amps? Yamaha's website lists the P3500S power draw at 5.8 amps @ 1/8 power which is "typical of program material with occasional clipping" and 12.8 amps @ 1/3 power which "represents program material with extremely heavy clipping". These surge suppressors are rated at 15 amps so concerned if they can handle the current draw. Wondering if I'll ever use all the the 12.8 amps without incurring serious hearing loss. Been looking at the Panamax M10-HT-PRO and M8-AV-PRO. Pricey units. Worth it or waste? Better options? Will affordable computer surge suppressor strips like Smart Strip
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Strip-LCG5-Auto-Switching-Technology/dp/B000L9635G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1297200951&sr=1-1-spell work for my needs? Would like to Keep It Simple and not get too envolved.

What gauge is the wiring on the circuit?

12.8 Amps has nothing to do with acoustical output because it doesn't specify the sensitivity of the speakers. If the speakers are extremely sensitive, you won't need to turn it up enough to draw that much current. Also, if high current is flowing in the only circuit used for the system, the voltage can sag on heavy musical peaks or sustained loud sections if the wire isn't sized correctly. Also, I'm not sure using 20A receptacles on a 15A circuit is allowed, but I'll defer to anyone here who's actually an electrician.

 

[jsulse]

The was built 4 years ago and a very good electrician was used so all wiring was done to code. As for the wire gage wire from breaker panel to receptacles I'll have to look.

I think my description of the available receptacles was a bit confusing. To clarify, the dedicated HT receptacle is wired to a single 20 amp breaker. The second nearby receptacle is on a different 15 amp breaker that powers a series of receptacles around the room and, at a minimum, will be used for the subs.

My LCR speakers are very sensitive JTR T-8s 98db with 4ohm load.

 

[jp_over]

Here's some discussion on the power strips:

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72008&highlight=smart+strip

Seems like a solid option.

 

[westom]

To clarify, the dedicated HT receptacle is wired to a single 20 amp breaker. The second nearby receptacle is on a different 15 amp breaker that powers a series of receptacles around the room and, at a minimum, will be used for the subs.

Shape of a receptacle defines its current rating. If rectangular prongs are parallel, the outlet is only 15 amps. Attached appliance must draw less than 12 amps.

A 20 amp receptacle has two rectangular prongs perpendicular to each other.

All electronics must have protection so that 240 volt differences (ie appliances connected to different circuit breakers) do not cause damage. In rare cases, that protection is compromised. Just one of many reasons why powering everything from one circuit is the preferred connection.